I’m just about to convert one of my bikes from 1×9 to a single speed.
I already have a surly 36t chainring upfront so i’m looking for suggestions as to which parts are best/worst to use for the rest particularly the chain tensioner as i’m not using a single speed specific frame.Which ones have the most spring in them?

The community will be along in a minute to tell you to use a SS specific chain and sprockets. While i’m sure they’re the better option, i’ve never had any trouble using ordinary 9sp parts, with a DMR 16t sprocket on the rear.

My 456 is set up to run a Magic Ratio, so i don’t need a tensioner. Just be aware that 9sp components are designed to allow the chain to move around (under the control of the derailleurs). As long as you keep plenty of tension in the chain, you shouldn’t have any trouble.

If you’ve got an aluminium freehub body, find a wide based rear sprocket to spread the force on the freehub body.

Groove armada rear sprockets from On-One
Surly Tugnuts if you have track ends

I’ve always had good results with the superstar rear sprockets.

Chain of choice is the KMC Z610

As for tensioners you have options:

Of the sprung type I liked the surly one but it was expensive. I replaced it with the on-on variant when I broke it* and that worked well. I never found it particularly good in push up mode (I had different springs for the surly).

Never used a fixed one. *In principle they should be more secure stronger and seem to be more tucked away making them less likely to damage. I was always worried about getting the wheel out and the faff in having to loosen it off.

For stuff I would look at the following shops

superstarcomponents
velosolo
charliethebikemonger
on-one
CRC

Duffer – Member
The community will be along in a minute to tell you to use a SS specific chain and sprockets. While i’m sure they’re the better option, i’ve never had any trouble using ordinary 9sp parts, with a DMR 16t sprocket on the rear.

The important one is the rear sprocket, you can get by with a derailleur style front until you get stronger.

It all makes sense when you realise that every component on a derailleur system, chain, cogs, chainring, is designed so the the chain will slip off easily.

In singlespeed mode you will be flexing the chainstay under pressure and pulling the cog and chainring out of line – if these are parts designed to derail, then they will. At which point you will be instantly enlightened as to why it’s worth getting SS specific parts.

Thus ideally get proper SS parts but especially the rear cog. A chain will be cheap – BMX is the best source.

Halo ss cogs are cheap and wide so spread the load over your free hub body without digging in. I used a gusset tensioner with a Clarks half link chain , before I bought an ss specific frame and it was silent and secure!

I use a Shimano rear sprocket, (tried Gusset but found the teeth a bit too tall) and a non-ramped chainring. Chain is just a 8 spd KMC (Z510 I think).

My tensioner is a Blackspire Stinger, you may need a half link on certain ratios to push up but you could use it in pull down mode easily enough. Looks way neater than a rear mounted tensioner IMO.

I have used an On-One Spider for years and never noticed/maintained it, which must be good.

I have used an On One sprung tensioner (its virtually the same as all the other sprung tensioners at he £15-20 price point) I found that over really rough ground the tensioner would spring the other way and hit the stays. This would not be have been a problem if it were pushing up.

Currently I use a Gusset Bachelor, which works well and stays put in the rough, however with it being fixed it has to be adjusted a fair amount to keep taking up the slack. It can work pushing up but only if the chain is short. Mine is currently pushing down and this is resulting in occasional slipping at the back.

I want one of these: clicky!

Thanks for all the advice guys.Like the sound of the surly tensioner as i’m a surly fan and i already have a surly chainring at the front.
Does the obvious extra grunt that the chain will suffer mean quick links are a no no?

go for the fixed tensioner. sprung ones aren’t really much cop in my experience, ( dmr tension seeker ). i use a blackspire up front like breadcrumb. it’s ‘ok’. easier getting the wheel in and out than a rear mounted tensioner though for sure. would rather have sliding dropouts by some way but not an option for me unfortunately.

I use a Tiagra rear mech, very strong tension and runs really quietly. With the chain as short as possible and the b screw slackened off it tucks up very neatly under the stay. And it was free (well, out of the spares box at any rate).

I have a Rohloff tensioner that’s currently spare …….

@letmetalktomark YGM 🙂

Got a Surly tensioner – in its bag. Just used a couple of times.
20 pounds?

Thanks for all the advice and offers guys.
So far this is what i’m going for:

Salsa 34t chainring
On one groove armada 16t chainring
Superstar heavy duty tensioner
Onza spacers and lockring

Will i be ok using my current nine speed chain or should i go for something a bit beefier as i’m a big old lump?? Any suggestions?

I’ve also decided to go fully rigid too. So as the bike is an on one inbred i’ve ordered a rigid fork for it (now they finally have some in stock!)

Aside from dishing, is the any benefit in a ss specific wheel? Considering a set of hope hoops that could be switched between bikes, including my Alfinehubbed io id. Do QR’s work ok with track dropouts? The Genesishas rear facing dropout bolts to tension the chanin, so i guess these will push the axle away fine. Any comments?

TiRed – track ends with tension adjust bolts are purely for fine tuning tension, if the axle moves it’ll bend them. The Genesis ones got beefed up but I still found slippage caused bendage. Tugs are the only option but a QR rear on a track style SS will slip eventually, by brake force if not pedal force. I like the simplicity, the main drawback is that you need bolted axles and some riders will need tugs too.
SS specific rears – I have 2 Hope SS hubs, think I get a stiffer / better tensioned back wheel and hub bearing spacing is better which helps durability, or should, seems to once you put decent bearings in there… Hard to say 100% but the theory is sound.

Thanks. SS it will be. I liked my old kona sliding dropouts that never slipped. It is still early days for the Genesis. Surprisingly similar handling. My fixed road bike has yet to suffer slippage without tugnuts

fattyre500 – Member
…Will i be ok using my current nine speed chain or should i go for something a bit beefier as i’m a big old lump?? Any suggestions?

I’ve also decided to go fully rigid too….

The irony is that the cheapest chain you can buy is probably the best suited to single speed.

The 9 speed is more than strong enough, but just remember it’s designed to come off easily. A cheap chain eg for a 5-8 is better in that regard, and BMX the best. Almost all are strong enough – although I had some unfortunate separations in SRAM chains a few years ago and no longer use them. (They may have improved by now).

Before you spend your money on a fork, get a proper front ring because as you get stronger, you may need it once you start putting serious flex in your bikes chainstays (or if not, use a chainguide).

The community will be along in a minute to tell you to use a SS specific chain and sprockets

Damn missed my moment…. 😐

Whats wrong with the salsa chainring i’ve got ?

I like UNO rings and eno free wheels but jut took a while to find the bits for the right price
Have just ordered a stans single speed hub to finally go disc on the rear

Have been riding the singlespeed fully rigid On-One for three weeks now and i’m loving it !!!
It’s just so much fun. You remember fun it’s what cycling was all about before crap like Strava came along to ruin everything!! LOL

Slight off topic “strava ruin everything”
Can’t see problem myself , has made my commute much more fun

Any ways.
Surly rear cog or eno free wheel depending on hub
Only tensioner I’ve used is a spare rolhoff dh one which works very well but silly money to buy now

use one chainring at the front, one sprocket at the back.
If you have an aluminium freehub body and give a shit about it you might want a wide base sprocket.

then you ride it.

if you need a tensioner then the lower roller chain device thing works well

Using a Superstar heavy duty tensioner.

“STRONG LIKE OX !!”

DJFLEXURE, DJFLEXURE, CALLING, CALLING!

20 quid including postage?

I’m in.

Get me on me profile.

Ta daa…

In other news, Retnthal chainring, Groove Armada sprocket, KMC 1/8 chain.

I’m using an old Derailleur the now ’cause I break things.

sounds like it will look a bit like mine 😀

With chunky tyres and 100mm Travel.

With Skinny tyres and rigid.

Surly chainring and wide based sprocket on Hope SS hub. KMC X9 SL 9 speed chain with SRAM speed links. I’m 18 stone and not broken anything yet.

Velo Solo & Charlie are your friends OP.

Gusset push up tensioner. Dont waste your money on spring push down tensioners.

Very much like yours righog except mines matt black and i’m running on-one smorgasboard tyres with the rigid forks.Riding it takes me back to my bmx bikes of my youth! (long long time ago i’m 44!) 😆