I’m “upgrading” a 2nd hand 26er inbred singlespeed and have a few questions.

The bike will get used weekly and treated like ****, ie: brought home, not cleaned, have oil squirted on it. I don’t want to spend a fortune and want something fairly bombproof. The chain has been coming off a few times since I got it and now looks twisted.

1. SS chains come in 1/8in or 3/32in – which do I need and does the chain ring and freewheel have to match?

2. In terms of chain line, if I’m using an On one SS rear hub and some old truvativ cranks (triple), what do I need to do to ensure a good chain line?

3. Freewheel…shimano DX seem to be the model most places stock. Are these any good and what else should I consider?

4. Chain suggestions?

5. It’s got a QR rear hub…is it worth getting a couple of on one chaintugs to keep it in place?

6. bash guard to help keep the chain on?

7. Lots of hills in ramsbottom. I’m reasonably fit so what gear ratio??

While I’m here. Inbred max fork travel is quoted as 120mm. I have some spare 130mm bombers, which I’d like to use. Anyone run similar and find it OK?

1. Either, but if using a DX freewheel probably best to get the wider one (1/8?). Will the DX take a 9 speed chain?
2. Start with the chainring in the middle ring position. Should be OK there.
3. DX is good vfm.
4. Get a track chain off of Charlie the Bikemonger or something.
5. If you have horizontal dropouts it might be worth it. Obviously not with vertical…
6. Shouldn’t need a bash guard if the chain tension is right. BMX riders don’t need them, so you shouldn’t either.
7. The classic is 32:16. I ride the FoD and go for 32:17, but I’m not the most burly legged rider.
8. Dunno about the forks…

I tend to run a bash, but more to protect against bashing than to keep the chain on.

3. Freewheel…shimano DX seem to be the model most places stock. Are these any good and what else should I consider?

White Industries?

Brick Lane Bikes sell one that looks nice, but how robust it is, I don’t know.

Just been through this for the first time.
1. The 3/32 might be more tolerant of chain line imperfections (as it will flex a bit). I think there is less choice of 3/32 sprockets but I found one OK.
4. Chain – got KMC 610 (510 is the 1/8). Burly and cheap.
5. Would have thought so.
7. Ramsbottom – haha. My father in law takes me up the Rake every time we visit. I have started with 35 x 17 but don’t think that I could get up the Rake using it. Maybe 35 x 18/19 in your locality? Bigger rings and sprockets apparently wear less.

1. SS chains come in 1/8in or 3/32in – which do I need and does the chain ring and freewheel have to match?

I wouldn’t if they’re not worn. SS rings and sporckets have longer teeth to keep engaged, if the chain slips off you might need, usually chains coming off are down to chain tension.

2. In terms of chain line, if I’m using an On one SS rear hub and some old truvativ cranks (triple), what do I need to do to ensure a good chain line?

If hub has a screw on freewheel then you might be able to use spacers on the BB cups to twaek the chain line outwards but if it’s a SS frame and wheel the chainline should be correct.

3. Freewheel…shimano DX seem to be the model most places stock. Are these any good and what else should I consider?

Ask Charlie the Bikemonger he’s a font of knowledge, but there’s White Industries, Chris King, Surley it all depeonds on how much you’ve got to spend.

4. Chain suggestions?

KMC Z7 or KMC Z510 wil be perfect

5. It’s got a QR rear hub…is it worth getting a couple of on one chaintugs to keep it in place?

Yes the Surley or On Ones will do, with the former being better.

6. bash guard to help keep the chain on?

You shouldn’t need one if you chain tension is good.

7. Lots of hills in ramsbottom. I’m reasonably fit so what gear ratio??

Not sure, I rode with Donk on his SS at Christmas and that was at Rivington Pike, you can contact him and ask but think he was on a 32:16. I’ve got 32:18 on mine but I like to spin.

While I’m here. Inbred max fork travel is quoted as 120mm. I have some spare 130mm bombers, which I’d like to use. Anyone run similar and find it OK?

Not sure but you could run 10mm more sag.

If you have the money and know what ratio you want the eno free wheel is the best I’ve even had
The shimano one is also ok and at a price you can try a few to see what gearing you like

but there’s White Industries, Chris King, Surley it all depeonds on how much you’ve got to spend.

Being pedantic, only one of those actually makes freewheels (WI). CK makes a single speed hub that takes splined sprockets (like the Hope/DT singlespeed hubs). Surly and WI make 135mm disc hubs threaded for screw on freewheels like the DX/WI ones.

Just a quick question. Did you buy it complete? if you did and you intend to treat it like dirt then why bother upgrading?

1. Depends on what your using. if any of the kit is 1/8 you’ll need that size. Yes you can mix and match sizes of cog and chainring. Otherwise just use any 7-9 speed chain on 3/32

2. A good eye or just suck it and see if it works. It probably will although chain coming off could be a suggestion this is an issue.

3. DX don’t bother. Might survive the summer but probably not. White Industries is the only real choice BUT I’d suggest getting a normal cassette hub and a spacer set. Will make solving any chainline issues easier.

4. CHEAP or even part used out of the shed.

5. Yes on the drive side if it’s a track ended frame.

6. No

7. 32:16 or equivalent. Maybe go out to 32:18 in winter if it gets pretty muddy. Again a cassette hub is cheaper to buy a few cogs for.

1. if you run the wider sprockets you’ll obviously need the wider chain, but wider chain will fit narrow sprockets OK. SS chains are not designed to derail therefore less likely to drop. tension the chain so you have a few mm movement up and down in the middle. tension it again when this increases to +/- 1/2″ or so.
2. middle ring, inside or outside, whichever looks best. on-one have cheap SS front rings. truvative BBs are shit though, IMHO, so get some shimano if you can lay your hand on some for cheap.
3. DX are variable in the experiences friends have had. some have lasted a very short time, some have gone on forever. place your bet. alternative may be the cheap shonky ones Charlie has for about 8 quid. this’ll give you a chance to try ratios too, if you need too. i have one on my crosscheck and it’s knocked pretty much from day one but has done a fair amount of miles now. i use WI on the mountain bike.
4. SRAM PC1 or something similarly cheap if you’re running cheap freewheels.
5. have you moved it so far? shimano QRs are reportedly pretty grippy but it’s not something i’ve ever had to worry about as i’ve either had bolt up or vertical dropouts of some sort. if track-end or horizontal type dropouts you may want a tug. you’ll only need one.
6. no real need unless you haven’t got short bolts for the single ring….
7. 2:1 is generally considered a good place to start.

I’ve been running a 26er Inbred SS over the winter, this is what I’ve learnt:

1. don’t need to match, but if you’ve got the thicker rings, then you obviously need the thicker

2. Pass – I’m running a normal 9speed hub with a conversion kit. Its got spacers to adjust the width. One thing that might help on a SS only hub is a flippable sprocket (if they come off a SS hub? not sure…). It gives you a good few mm of adjustment if you can fit one.

3. …ok, its not a flippable one then! I used a shimano BMX one on my old commuter and that took a lot of abuse (running 42-16), although not really through much mud. Changed it every couple of years when the grinding noise got too annoying.

4. I’ve been using a SRAM PC-1, because its stiff and very cheap (£6). I have to replace it about every 6 months because it stretches, but then I’m doing stuff like this: Bristol Hills. I don’t think I could justify 5-10x the price for a good track chain.

If your old one is twisted, scrap it. A good measure of replacing is that the links should be 12″ apart, if they are 1/8th” out from that then its getting too worn to really mash on (I like my knee caps)

5. Yes – makes setting chain tension a LOT easier, and you know it won’t come loose. I had to run tugs on both sides to stop it slipping with a DMR skewer, but you might get better performance out of a cheap shimano skewer (steel, so higher tension and internal cams).

6. You wont need it with the right tension.

7. 32:16’s ok for mashing round Bristol, hills are sharp but short. Ooop north you might need 32:17 for long drags, depends how much of a machine you are.

Inbred max fork travel is quoted as 120mm.>>> I was running 130 Revelations, which worked fine on a 18″ inbred. Its probably more to do with if you intend to use all the travel – the frame does flex a lot on the bigger stuff.

Not cleaning it: This works brilliantly on a SS! The only thing I do is put a quick squeeze of dry lube on it before each ride and it just keeps working. A white frame does look like its sh@t itself sometimes though….

On a side note, DX freewheels are rebuildable, I was pleased to find out the other day!

I used to run 130Revs on an Inbred. It was OK but def felt better suited to a shorter fork.

FWIW I’d run the drivetrain you have into the ground then get a cassette-style rear hub and matching cog.

I’ve always used a 1/8 chain but I’m not sure it makes a lot of difference.