Going to convert my hardtail to a single speed as its mainly a commuter and have realised I hardly ever change gear, very flat commute.

Not really sure what to do as my bike has normal dropouts will I need to fit some sort of tensioner? would a stinger do the job? If this works for me I’ll probably get a single speed wheel but would like to try this out on the cheap before making an investment.

Guessing the kits from superstar are a pretty good start.

Guessing the kits from superstar are a pretty good start.

You guessed correctly..

Or, to avoid using them, Charlie sells a comlete SS Kit IIRC…

Edit..

He does..

Charlie…[

I used a Gusset Double Six kit and a Surly Singleator

Kits are a good start, wide based sprockets work bettter without tearing into freehubs, stinger might work if the chainlines perfect, sprung tensioners will guide it onto the sprocket even if the chainline’s off.

regarding tensioners …

I tried one of the basic ones that pulls the chain downwards, and found that the chain would skip under max power ( coz me legs is full of gnarr … 🙄 ) mainly because when the chain was tensioned, it didn’t wrap the rear cog well enough, allowing skipping. Under normal pedalling it was fine, but when doing a steep hill it wasn’t.

I then tried flipping it so that it pulled the chain upwards, much better contact with the rear cog, however, the chain would bounce on the underside of the chainstay – a lot.

In the end I bought a YESS tensioner which has the double pulley setup. All problems solved. Highly recommended if you think you’ll be putting down loads of power.

Half Link Chain is a much neater solution:

Ragley Ti Single Speed by brf, on Flickr

I would spend the extra for a either a Yess tensioner or a Paul Components Melvin.

I briefly had a Melvin and say its much better than anything else I’ve tried (Both Superstar ‘cheapies’ and Surly Singleator). Only sold it because I picked up a ‘proper’ S/S bike.

You could try different combinations of sprocket and chainring size till you find one that doesnt require a tensioner.
Or do as I once did and go for the pikey option.

I converted my push down sprung tensioner with a push up Surly spring. I then used a half link to get my SS chain as short as possible and used a wide base SS sprocket with a proper SS chainring.

Worked absolutely fine.

I tried one of the basic ones that pulls the chain downwards, and found that the chain would skip under max power ( coz me legs is full of gnarr … ) mainly because when the chain was tensioned, it didn’t wrap the rear cog well enough, allowing skipping. Under normal pedalling it was fine, but when doing a steep hill it wasn’t.

I never managed that in years of SSing with tensioners, and I’m a fat Mo-Fo who refuses to get off and push (i.e I put a lot of force through the chain). If it’s skipping either your chain or sprocket is worn or the chain is the wrong width for the sprocket.

+1 to Tinas. I’ve never bought that chain wrap idea. Even with the tensioner taking up ‘a lot’ of slack you’ll have best part of half the rear cog wrapped – ie: 7 or 8 teeth engaged for a typical 16T rear cog.

I reckon if you get slipping due to ‘chain wrap’ it’s far more likely to be bad / worn cogs. Get a decent wide based steel cog (eg Groove Armada from Brant) and crank away.

I tried one of the basic ones that pulls the chain downwards, and found that the chain would skip under max power ( coz me legs is full of gnarr … ) mainly because when the chain was tensioned, it didn’t wrap the rear cog well enough, allowing skipping. Under normal pedalling it was fine, but when doing a steep hill it wasn’t.

I’ve had that with brand new drive train, just wasn’t enough tension to keep the chain on the sprocket under load and it lifted off and slipped round (you could see it if you rode along side) – half link chain solved the problem.

Here is all you need to know…

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93M9lvl8LM8[/video]

I converted my Genesis Altitude steel hardtail, about a year ago, using one of Charlie’s kits (Thanks Charlie!) and have had no problems with chain skip at all.
Now, considering that I definitely fall into biffer territory – and some folk predicted too much flex in a steel frame – I’ve been very impressed.
It’s just being rebuiolt, at the moment after a visit to the powder coater (yes, I know, it’s not the best time of year for a new paint-job) and I’m itching to get out on it again.

If you get chain slip with new kit, it’s a lack of chain wrap or tension.

I always go with a 36:18 set up rather than 32:16, it costs the same but the load is shared over more teeth.

Using a surly tensioner in the push up position solves this too.

Here is another video to help you sort out these problems…

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-n0m6jMOCE[/video]

old rear mech works better than any tensioner IME.

Half link chain works even better – no slack to worry about…

Cheers for all this info chaps.

Another question though, Noticed there are a few tensioners out there which use a roller instead of a Jockey wheel any advantages/disadvantages to the different systems??

Almost ready to take the plunge now 😆 soon be strong like ox……………………………………………………………………………………………or calf

The yess tensioner has a roller pulley and you hear it whurr as the chain links run over it. A pulley sounds smoother, but there is little difference in feel under pedalling.

Sorry to crash the party, I have been reading this thread with interest.I have Singlespeeded my Specialized Rockhopper with a kit from Charlie.I am getting major chain skip with any tension in the drive chain,I wish it was because my quads are huge!

I am running 40x16t with a 1/8th KMC chain. The 4jeri Tensioner is pushing down.

Can this tensioner be changed to push up?
Is my set up ok in the images uploaded
Cheers for any help

I used one of those tensioners and didnt get on with it .I bought a Dmr one and shortened the chain to get more wrap to stop it jumping under gnarr loading

Theres not a lot of chain wrap on that cog wrightyboy, can you not remove another link? or maybe fit a half link to get more chain wrap

I thought he could do with 2/3 more teeth in the chain as well

Thanks guys.
I’ll take out a link or two. Do you know if the 4jeri tensioner can be used to push up?

@wrightyboy01,

Don’t stop at one or two – take as many out as you can

I rode my Sanderson Soloist off road for the first time last Sunday. Whilst I appreciate that Wyre forest isn’t the most challenging climb wise, I found it hard work. I was riding with three other single speeders who are far more experienced than I. You do learn something about yourself when you have no option but to keep peddling though. It feels good for the soul. And it helps you sleep. My tyre set up was a bit disastrous for mud, but with that remedied for the next ride, I doubt I’ll go back to gears…

I use that tensioner with no problems but mine is right up near the chainstay to ensure tension. If you look on my blog you’ll see set up advice and what it should look more like.

http://www.followingthechainline.blogspot.com