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Single Speed-educate me
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fatgitFree Member
Hi
After some upgrading of other bikes I find I have surplus parts which (apart from a frame and wheels) would build into a single speed back.Having been curious about one geared stuff for a while its an itch I’m tempted to scratch so what will I need in terms of a rear wheel/hub, gear ratios etc.
Also what size chainring would I need at the front?
This is just for pottering around really with the family and the odd blast on my own and possibly some commuting.I am guessing that any old front wheel would fit the bill?
It will be a 29er as that is the type of forks I have (120-140mm travel)
Any recommendations on a frame without spending too much money and if anyone has anything for sale give me a shout.
Any other advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Stevejonjonjon3Free MemberA single speed specific frame will have some form of horizontal dropouts or a eccentric bb. You can use a normal vertical dropout frame but would need some form of chain tensioner (unless you can get away with a ‘magic ratio’).
You can use a normal cassette rear wheel, just need a single sprocket/cog and some spacers.
32:18 could be a reasonable starting point for off-road on a 29er
philjuniorFree MemberDon’t be afraid to go for a slightly lower gear if it’s an MTB and you want to pedal up things.
On-one will probably have something at a decent price with adjustment for SS.
nickjbFree Member2:1 was always a good starting point for a 26″, so a bit less than that. Personally I think you are better off with a normal frame then fit a tensioner. It looks more elegant without the tensioner but it’s generally more of a faff and limits frame choice.
If you want to ride hills and roads then you won’t find a ratio that works for all. You need to compromise a bit. If you cut up an old cassette then you’ll have a load of ratios to try out.
philjuniorFree Membernickjb probably has a point re. the chain tensioner, from my experience with slot dropouts at least. Sliding vertical dropouts would be the nicest option IMO – eccentric BBs always seem to be creaky in the experience of my mates.
brassneckFull MemberSomeone was selling an Eccentricizer (I think thats what it’s called!) if you have a well love vertical drop out frame on the classifieds – makes the normal BB eccentric for HTII cranks. I’ve always disliked tensioners as they ruin the aesthetics and are usually noisy.. a proper silent SS is a thing of joy (and pain and suffering etc.).
Slot drop out with Surly tugs was the best setup I had, but I’ve always hankered after a Swift.whitestoneFree MemberIf you are using disk brakes then a chain tensioner would be a good idea as you’d have to keep moving the rear brake when re-tensioning the chain as it stretches.
droflufFree Membereccentric BBs always seem to be creaky in the experience of my mates.
Not mine. Totally silent, or at least inaudible above the creaking of my joints and the gasping of my lungs!
GregMayFree MemberNever had issues with eccentric BBs I’ve had in the past. I think it’s partially down to the person maintaining the bike.
Gearing depends on where you live and ride more than anything. Used to run 32/18 on a 29er when I lived somewhere relatively flat with long gradual hills. Now live somewhere quite steep (Hebden) and run 31/21 – there is only one climb I can’t get up (Buttress) and I can happily spin at 100RPM all day on the flat.
Frame wise, slot dropouts with a tugnut work great and I’ve used them a lot in the past. Currently run a Salsa with Alternator dropouts, I’ve had no issues with them at all.
Advice – avoid cheap SS cogs. In my experience the cheaper light weight ones flex and sheer even with good chainline. Superstar I am looking at you. There is nothing quite like loosing all drive and ramming your nuts into your stem. Get a decent steel SS cog, or WI Freewheel, then get your chainline right from day one.
Suffer and enjoy it.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/tspj2Q]Singlespeed sillyness[/url] by Greg.May, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/rxUHKs]P5020071.jpg[/url] by Greg.May, on Flickr
nickcFull MemberPut some spacers on a regular hub, don’t bother with a SS specific one, they’re pretty much either badly sealed and shit, or properly expensive.
V good advice re the cog though, get yourself a good solid steel one.
You probably need a chain tug, and a while a bolt up hub is best, a good shimano QR is mostly OK. Don’t faff on with a BMX chain they’re almost universally shit, get a SRAM PC1
You’ll surprise yourself what you can climb, and on the flat SS is crap
Have fun!!
thisisnotaspoonFree Member1) start at a 52″ gear inches, to work this out take wheel diameter, and multiply by the front ring, divide by the rear, so 26 * (32 / 16) = 52, talking about gear ratios marks you out as an amateur, as does shaving. If anyone asks you about razor blades or gear ratios, stare blankly and mutter something about capitalists under your breath*.
2) All frames are good. Ltd edition slot dropout Inbred with no cable guides, shows you’re committed. EBB or sliding dropouts, you’re taking this seriously and are a man of wealth and taste. Old rat bike frame with a tensioner, shows your keeping it real, they’re all good.
3) As you get fitter, LOWER your gear. Some people proclaim loudly that they’re running 36-16 as they’re stronger. These people are idiots, the only true path to enlightenment is the ability to spin small gears smoothly. The exception to this is at any kind of competitive event where it is acceptable to intimidate the competition with a huge chainring (and corresponding large sprocket they won’t notice), or by writing 38t onto a 34t chainring with a sharpie.
*if you meet anyone who refers to their gear in cm, they are talking about gear development which is a heretical measurement sytem and are likely a spy from the continent. Take a spade and dispose of the body.
fatgitFree MemberOk cheers all but I’m getting confused:
So to clarify
Let’s say I bought an On One inbred SS frame with horizontal dropouts, I could use a standard rear wheel with spacers and QR?
But I’ll need a chain tug(??)-does this do the same job as a tensioner? If not what does it do?Can I use a normal chain set but with just one chain ring or should I look at a single speed specific one?
Please just keep things simple 🙂
Apologies for my ignorance
Cheers
StevebreadcrumbFull MemberNormal chainset is fine, must space the cog on the freehub body to get a good chainline.
Chain tugs stop the wheel slipping in the frame, which with a QR will almost definitely happen.
I run 32:19 in the lakes, did have an 18 but I prefer the 19.
I’ve a couple chain tugs in the garage somewhere you can have for the price of a pint if they’re any use?
kerleyFree Member[quote3) As you get fitter, LOWER your gear. [/quote]
Disagree. Choose the gear that suits where you ride and if you get fitter you just go faster. I have hills but not mountains so live with a gear on the high side otherwise flat sections are a slow chore.
And yes, after 13 years of solely riding single speed and fixed I can certainly spin.
fatgitFree MemberHi
Breadcrumb- might take you up on that. Will be in touch.
So can I use asrandard QR with chain tugs or do I need about up axle?
If I use chai tugs do I not need a tensioner?
Think I’m starting to work it out
Cheers
SteveDufferFree MemberSo can I use asrandard QR with chain tugs or do I need about up axle?
If I use chai tugs do I not need a tensioner?All of this is dependant on your frame – horizontal trackends will require chain tugs (if you’re using a QR axle), but will not require a chain tensioner. Vertical dropouts will require the opposite (assuming you’re not using an eccentric BB).
Either way, you’ll need some stupid bars of some kind; you don’t want people to think you’re weird!
CheesybeanZFull MemberIf you go for a tensioner get one that pushes up not down , you’ll get more chain on the cog .
I’d start 32/19 while you get your technique / head round SSing .jakd95Free MemberI use 32/19 on a 29er Inbred, a good compromise I find. The frame is great, it’s the one with horizontal dropouts and a gear hanger, in case I ever want to run t geared. I haven’t found I need a tugnut, a decent Shimano XT QR holds the wheel plenty tight enough.
A few things that echo what others have said:
1. A normal cassette hub with spacers is fine – and allows you to change to geared if you ever want to.
2. Get a decent cog when you decide what ratio you’re going to go for, I have a Stainless Velo Solo one that is showing no signs of wear even after 3 years.
3. Don’t buy the On One tugnut if you decide you need one, it doesn’t actually fit/work with the Inbred.tuboflardFull MemberOn one are doing the horizontal drop out frame for £129 at the moment which I’d suggest is a bit of a bargain
I’d avoid chain tensioners, its really not that much of a faff to set up. I had a set of the On One chain tugs on a 26er inbred and they worked fine, not sure though if they’ve changed the frame though so aren’t compatible any more as jakd suggests.
As for gear ratio, 32/16 works fine if just pottering around, as others have suggested go for something more like a 32/18 or thereabouts until you get used to the riding style it requires. Currently running 32/17 on my Rooster
What ever set up you arrive at you’ll probably love or hate it, personally its my favourite means of riding.
paul4stonesFull MemberWhere are you? I have an old sliding drop-out inbred 29er frame that I could be persuaded to long term loan….. 19.5″ though so you’ll need to be tallish.
fatgitFree MemberHi
Thanks for all the advice
Paul4stones-what do you mean by long term loan? Do you want to sell? Email in profile to chat about it.
I’m in Darlington.Otherwise might just get one of the On Ones as its not that much to have a try. Even if I don’t like it I won’t lose that much.
Just need to get some wheelsCheers
SteveYakFull MemberThe inbred is a good ss choice, especially at that price. I don’t know what fork you already have, but rigid works really well with ss- light and direct. The exotic carbon on the inbred is a great match and also not too pricey.
Takes a few rides to get your single speed legs on, but once you are on it, nothing beats the feel of flying up a hill with a decent cadence and good pace.
As above, c32:18 to start, then tweak later, kmc 3/32 chain, decent chainring and cog (surly, velosolo, on one stainless), one chain-tug on driveside, and that’s it.
Have fun 🙂
breadcrumbFull MemberTakes a few rides to get your single speed legs on, but once you are on it, nothing beats the feel of
flyinggrinding up a hill with a decentcadencestomp and goodpacegurn.YakFull Member😀 ^^^
Ah, yes – ahem, that’s true too, but don’t let that put you off OP 😉
mick_rFull MemberI’ve never had much luck using QRs and horizontal dropouts (though some people seem to do OK with chain tugs – but they need a small hole or insert to locate on the qr shaft).
Regular cassette hubs and spacers work fine. A Shimano or similar cup and cone bearing hub is arguably the best because for under £10 you can rebuild around a solid axle and hold the wheel very firmly with gert big nuts (no chain tug then needed).
Over the years (mrs was sswc in 2001 – god we’re getting old) I’ve found the quickest way to check chainline is with a 1 metre aluminium / steel rule. Push one of it’s straight edges against the outer face of the chainring and it shows exactly where the rear sprocket needs to be (does that make sense? – just using it as a straight edge direct from front ring to rear hub)
All of the above are simple little details (and cheap) but essential as you really don’t want to loose the chain under full thrutch conditions. Singlespeed only works if you can really trust the drivetrain and give it everything when the need arises.
Also learn the “tactical 1/4 turn back pedal” to stay on the power over techy bits (also useful for not clipping pedals on rocks etc). This is a very good skill to take back to geared mtb riding.
TiRedFull MemberSurly make the best sprockets. I fitted two (15 and 17T) to my hope hub so I can adjust gearing if needed. I have a Genesis io frame with rear facing tensioning bolts, so the QR can’t slip. Nice set up but swapping wheels for a puncture is a bit of a pain. I had 32×18 with a White Industries freewheel previously on a 29er. I prefer the Hope set up with spacers.
noltaeFree MemberI’d definitely make the effort to run a bolt through rear axle with the track ends – I’ve found that I didn’t need chain tugs with this set up – if going qr defo use the tugs ..
kerleyFree MemberI favour Gusset Double Six cogs – £12, stainless and most importantly 7mm wide base so don’t dig into an alloy free hub if you have one.
kayla1Free MemberThese are good for holding rear QR wheels in line (I use them on my SS Absolut)-
SSing is great. All the
coolweird kids are doing it 😀Dansk1Full MemberXL halo hex skewers are great and cheap. Shimano qr was a little too short for me (chain tug added extra few mm) and cheap skewer was just crap – wheel slid forward when braking.
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