Just picked up a disc roady frame with the rear disc caliper on the seatstay and the rack mount on the dropout.

I’d like to avoid buying a new rack/guards, so what bodgeselegant engineering solutions have my fellow STWrs employed?

Got any pics?

With SKS mudguards you can just bend the rack stay around the caliper.

You should be able to make it out in this photo. If not, let me know and I’ll get a close-up for you.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/ac2REz]2010-04-13 23-45-11[/url] by Colin Cadden, on Flickr

Topeak Super Tourist DX rack is designed for bike with disks and will get round the caliper issue too.

all I do is use a longer bolt with spacers to get it clear of the calliper. I usually use a bit of alloy tubing from an old rack cut to length to give me the correct spacing. If you need to space the disc side out more than a few mm yo might have to space the non disc side as well or else the rack ends up off centre. Some racks do fit better than others tho and some callipers make it easier than others.

Once you have the rack fitted fit the mudguard to the rack rather than using stays on the bike. Cable ties are your friend for this

same as teej. longer bolt spaced out.

Cheers chaps.

Anyone had any luck using this kind of thing?

http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Tortec-Epic-Rack-Disc-Mount-Adaptor_63753.htm

That can also work – if you need it. Very much depends on the rack/bike though. I bought a similar adapter for a Tubus rack but just couldn’t get it to work on my Amazon – hence ending up with the Super Tourist DX.

+1 for the Topeak Super Tourist DX

I bent the stay and used a longer bolt but rather than a piece of tubing to do the spacing I threaded a locknut onto the bolt to the appropriate position. I’ll try and get a shot and load it tonight.

I had this issue mounting a rack on my On-One 456 – could get around it by bending the rack stay to clear the calliper.

Instead of a bit of tubing – you could use a longer bolt & some of those presta valve ring screws as spacers to secure it all (I realized this after cutting mudguard stays & using p-clips to clear my discs)

edit: PDW sell these little kits for their mudguards too

I did try a topeak as mentioned above – it was very heavy and the mounts spaced it far too wide so I sold it on again

Those Topeak racks are heavy, MASSIVE (and ugly IMO).

I’ve managed with some spacers and graceful bending of stays so far – the neatest solution and elegant too IMO.

Bend the mudguard stays around the caliper if possible.

Space the rack out, you can bend the rack stays a bit and it should be OK. I used V brake spacers when I last needed to do this.

I have a pic of a front mudguard stay adjusted around the caliper, but I’m not sure where and I’m not sure where to put it to display it here :S.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/5LUfVJ]IMGP1199[/url] by Richard Lowerson, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/5LQ3W4]IMGP1202[/url] by Richard Lowerson, on Flickr

These are all good ideas, looks like the selection of old nuts and bolts I’ve kept over the years may actually come to some use 🙂

I used an old hub cone to space mine out.

I present to you…

New commuter by Notoriously Bad Typist, on Flickr

These make a good spacer –

M5 Connector Nut

Stainless so don’t go rusty.
I used them with a short length of stainless studding – which you can cut to exactly the right length – instead of a bolt.

I present to you…

Inadequate coverage & fouling on some forks.

I was reminded by seeing NBT’s photo that you should have a think about which bits of your caliper you might need to get at easily when bending the stays around it.

I have done a mixture of the methods presented here to fix guards to my Tripster. The front is spaced out using a long bolt that has a new nuts threaded on to it before screwing into the frame. The rear has the stays bent like @scotroutes has done.

I would strongly advise against spacing out a rack more than a few mm, as when you have it loaded up, the extra leverage on the spaced bolt can snap the bolt, or bend/strip the eyelet on the frame.

Matts – could theoretically but I have been doing this for years including carrying heavy loads offroad with zero issues with perhaps 12 mm of specers

Long Bolt..

But with a lock nut..
~So

Nut | Rack Leg | Spacer | Lock Nut | Frame | Bolt.

Gives a bit more confidence that any loosing will “rattle” long before coming off

Matts – could theoretically but I have been doing this for years including carrying heavy loads offroad with zero issues with perhaps 12 mm of specers

Yes. Also depends on the eyelet type and frame material.

I would strongly advise against spacing out a rack more than a few mm, as when you have it loaded up, the extra leverage on the spaced bolt can snap the bolt, or bend/strip the eyelet on the frame.

I would be wary too, a bolt snapped on me during a tour like this, in a Bonty rack with legs like the Topeak one. I think it was a crappy hi-ten bolt though, the original one had seized in.

https://www.edinburghbicycle.com/revolution-alu-round-mudguard-spacer.html

Kind of like the things mcj78 posted, albeit without the longer Allen bolts.