gonzy is that the shortest/highest/steepest bike ever??

😆
probably Rob but appearances can be deceptive, as the frame looks taller because its running on 24″ rims. also once i sit on it, it drops to its normal ride height. but the back end is adjustable so once the fork has had its travel increased i’ll be going to work on the rear

Mine’s a bottom bracket away from being finished.

Come on, Mr Postman. Come on.

The shock length on the DHR is too long, plus it’s in the nearest shock mount hole (at the back)…. combined with high stack (short reach) stem and high rise bars…. makes a sky high BB and steep twitchy HA.

These are the angles the frame was designed for… (long travel triple clamps, 26s, shorter shock)

It will handle very differently with the factory spec’d angles.

You can pick up some longer travel forks (or with a longer A2C length) to slacken it out fairly cheap – think I paid about £70 for some Boxxers….

New bicycle by droppin-neutron, on Flickr

Insurance replacement for my V10

xiphon – thanks for the advice. 😀 when i bought the frame i checked with the shop and the shock length is correct and that this was the shock the frame came from the factory with…it may look longer as the spring is soft and therefore i have wound a bit more preload to it…it could do with a stiffer spring so i can wind off the preload.
as for the angles i have played about with the different shock mount settings and found its current setting to be the best for freeride duties especially with the fork that’s fitted. the fork has a long axle to crown measurement as it is and the increase to 170mm will make this near enough the same as a twin crown fork so hopefully this will help.
i do have other options though with the geometry as there are other adjustment that can be made at the chainstay pivot and at both ends of the shock plates.
but like i said the back end does drop by quite a bit when i sit on it and i’ve never felt the front end feel twitchy at all, but i know what you mean as it looks kind of wrong. 🙂
i will take your advice on board and have a play about with the geometry settings this weekend.
p.s. the 24’s were off the jump bike but i’ve left on this as i’m using the jump bike as a commuter….having said that with the 2.6’s they are actually nearly the same size as the 26 inch rims running 2.3’s… 😆

@gonzy – If the front end is still too high, dual crowns + direct mount stem (very low stack height) and flat bars make a big difference IME.

At the time our frames were made (mines 2002), a really high front end was how every DH bike was designed – 50mm riser bars (max of 680mm?), short stubby stem, high top-crown, plenty of spacers….

Since then, the fashion of ultra-low front ends has been and [sort of] gone…. luckily a balance of the two make older geo nicer to ride (IME anyway).

The original front end (high and narrow)…

The improved (lower and wider) front end..

Crucially, the geo of the frame/forks hasn’t changed on mine (I run 170mm forks, like the original spec) – just the rider position.

Just found this pic on the web….. nice ‘n’ slack.. Not sure if it’s the factory shock length…. a shorter i2i will make it slacker.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/3577385877.html

EDIT:
And for all those saying “Let him configure his bike as he likes…” I say “If he doesn’t know how it was supposed to be configured originally, where’s the harm in suggesting the changes to make it ride like it was designed?”

thanks Xiphon – i appreciate the advice. i know how it was supposed to be set up when i bought the frame but i’ve made the changes to the geometry to suit my riding style and although it doesn’t look pretty or right in the eyes of some people, contrary to how it looks it rides fine, but like you say i’m sure there are more improvements to be made. i’ve been considering getting some wider and flatter bars and possibly changing the stem anyway so that may be the first course of action then i’ll take it from there. as for the fork i cant justify spending any money in that department yet as i’m trying to save up for a new AM bike, but the forks on the hardtail will soon need to be replaced due to a knackered pinch bolt thread so that may be the ideal time to make the changes you suggest…i’ll let you know how i get on after i’ve wielded the toolkit at the bike this weekend… 😀

xiphon – some great advice there.

you may think it rides ok but trust what xiphonis saying. move the shock about and fit some 26’s will help the ride of the bike no end

My Helius ‘FR’…..now about to be sold 🙁

and fit some 26’s

🙁 but i like my 24’s….. 😥 😥 😥

I’ve been guilty of liking 24s too, but switched to 26s and it made a noticeable difference.

better rolling speed. better tyre choice. lighter.

This is the only thread on STW where people are being recommended to change to 26 inch

Rollin’ on 24s….. back in 2007…

(It’s the nice curvy long wall ride on south bank, London)

@Northwind ha! Quite a rare thread then…

good thread, something to enjoy while I’m healing

big fun

little big fun

silly pic angle makes geometry look funny. sorry.