As per title really. Anyone run one.?

I did but it got stolen, dont be fooled by the pic it needed a bash to stop the chain dropping, had an N gear jump stop on the inside..

Not bothered on my next bike as 3 rings just make the bike more versatile..

Still have the front mech but I will likely get a LS1+ when they are available as I keep dropping the chain to the granny (which needs removing) over the rough stuff.

how do people find a 1×9? im considering dropping 2 rings and doing this, I thought if some find ss good enough then a 1×9 should be ok

Here we go again…

No chain drop device, you need:

good chain line

Short as possible chain

Short rear mech

and you'll never drop it (providing you want such a set-up of course)

good for a hardtail bonesetter but a bash is worth it on fs

Agreed, and has much more gnarl cred at the trail head 🙂

bonesetter you forgot:

to never ever ride anything rough

to never ever hit jumps/drops

to never ever backpedal

😕

I_Ache – that's class!! 😆 I see it's a rigid singlespeed too (til you ride it and change gear anyway). 😛

wow another 1×9 thread……… almost getting like what tyres f…

i think this forum needs a tech/sticky section for the repeat questions

mine:

short mech, short chain, non ramped chainring and guides at the front just in case

Bonesetter:
quick question re chainline how can you have a good chainline with a 9 speed cassette? does your chainring move in and out to match each sprocket?

Si

that it does bonesetter lol

L'Ache, just get one of these and you'll never drop a chain and get to keep 2 rings.

GW – Member
I_Ache – that's class!! 😆 I see it's a rigid singlespeed too (til you ride it and change gear anyway). 😛

Cant figure out if your taking the pi55 or not. I left the front mech in to hold the chain in place having adjusted the screws to centre it on the chain. And I couldn't be bothered to take off the granny while I was just trying it out. It really doesn't have a front shifter look.

@stuartanicholson
I have one on my HT I havn't given it a proper blast over the rough stuff yet but I will soon.

I quite like the uncluttered look of the bars and if I do away with the bash like the LS1+ lets you then I might loose weight with the planned setup.

l-Ache…that's the best bike-at-work storage spot ever. 😀
Ace.

By good chainline I mean the best compromise. The chain normally drops inward when on the biggest or second biggest rear, so you need the chainring as close to the BB shell as poss.

The chain NEVER drops – I ride trails like everyone else, bounce down big steps in the woods, stutter roots, blah blah, and back pedal

I like the simplicity of the set-up, and most of all no front mech shifting. The chain ring is a 29T with 11×34 cassette and on the 29er suits my riding terrain perfectly

By good chainline I mean the best compromise. The chain normally drops inward when on the biggest or second biggest rear, so you need the chainring as close to the BB shell as poss.

yes that is a good idea, on mine i swapped the BB spacers a bit fromone side to the other to move the chainring inwards.

as for ration on my 29er i use 32 x 11×34 – was looking at those shim 12-36 cassettes in case i need a bit lower, though round my way nothing is that extreme

Gamut chain device, 36T ring with the chain line dead straight to the 17T sprocket at the back, which is the ratio I run on my singlespeed, hence the one I expect to use most.

[/quote]The chain ring is a 29T with 11×34 cassette and on the 29er suits my riding terrain perfectly

Bonesetter, where did you get your 29T from, its a 104 BCD?

on the 29er suits my riding terrain perfectly

Ahh, that explains things.

I'd recommend a chain guide.

There must be something terribly appealing about 1×9 set ups as it is indeed becoming an increasingly common thread. Here's mine:

The appeal for me is simplicity – I never have to change chainrings and if I can't climb the hill in 32×34, I just get off and walk (which does happen quite a bit!)

Running two rings usually means 22/36 or thereabouts; my mate runs this (and he's reasonably fit) and is forever having to switch between rings in order to get the right gear. He claims that 32 on the front doesn't give him a big enough gear, but that can't possibly be true as I'm easily quicker than he is downhill and I'm never undergeared. To be honest, I could probably get away with a 32t front on my DH bike. After all, if Sam Hill runs a 36t at warp speed and not be undergeared, then how would I ever need anything bigger?

For the vast majority, I believe that 32t should be enough up front (unless you want to do a lot of road work where you will easly spin out).

I've just built up my 456 as 1×9 and for the first ride ran without a chain guide. On the first decent rooty descent I lost the chain and this happened a few times on that ride leaving me using the ipper sprokects to increaase chain tension.

Set up is a 34t FSA unramped DH ring with 11-32 cassette, Sram medium cage mech and chain as short as I could go.

I had an MRP 1.X on the way which was fitted for the second ride and it's been fine.

Being built:

Built:

For 29T chainrings see this thread here

Like it says, made in US and took 1 week exactly for mine to arrive. I checked it the other day and no signs of wear

I have been debating this for far too long, like the idea of getting more simple set up and lossing 2 rings and a shifter but in reality are 1×9 set ups ok for a do anything trail bike? still need it to climb, decend and handle all day rides… it is tempting!

32 and 11/34

But I'm thinking of going 2×9

@CrAsH…tEsT..RiDeR

Just go for your normal ride, but see if you can do it without touching the left-hand gear lever!

@Crash – as poppa says really. I think that the fitter you are, the less you are going to notice not having the granny ring. I am desperately unfit but I can still do 3 hours rides in the Peak District and Welsh trail centres with a 32t by 34t set up as my smallest gear. I couldn't do that in say the Lakes, but then I probably couldn't do a five hour Lakes ride at the moment anyway.

You absolutely won't need anything bigger than 32t by 11t unless your standard of DH riding is at fairly competitive level IMO.

My view is that if I am spun out at 32t by 11t then I am riding down something that is simple and boring enough for me not to worry about going faster. On anything technical/rooty/rocky etc on a trail bike at least, I focus on carrying speed rather than pedalling.

I've done all day rides in Wales & Scotland with my 1×9 set up. Its not too bad at all once you get used to it. As a test I did Afan W2 trail without touching the left lever, which was surprisingly easy actually, so I ripped the front mech off.

40 and 11-32

Paul's Chain Keeper – the only neat solution IMHO 😉

Tried higher chain tension, shorter mech, etc. – but still kept dropping the chain on bumpy downhills.

Useful when I know a ride will be steep enough that using the SS will mean I have to walk a lot. But still saves weight over a 3×9 set-up, and looks neater too. 34t front and 11-32 block, and I do all day rides around Exeter and Dartmoor. Trying it in Wales next weekend.

goog, you aint climbing anything on that!

To the folk with the bigger bikes and 1×9 setup…steep hill and you'll have to get off and push, are these small DH bikes for southern hills or genuine ride everywhere bikes? If the latter, i dont see the point.

34 x 11/32 setup gives a range of 27.6" to 80.36"

Whereas a triple 26/36/46 x 11/32 setup gives a range of 21.13" to 108.73"

You're only really missing a large amount at the top of the range, at the bottom you only lose 6". So not just for southern hills (and we do have some quite big ones down here anyway!)

Who uses a 26/36/46 triple? Ive only ever seen 22/32/44…

Who uses a 26/36/46 triple? Ive only ever seen 22/32/44..

That'll be the XT M771 – designed more for touring actually – it was the first one that came up on a google search 😳

Ok, with a 22t granny ring you'll have 17.89" for your bottom end – compared to 27.6" with a 34t.

To be fair i probably could ride most stuff on my spicy with a 32, but i hate the thought that on certain rides i would have to get off and push. Om my xc hardtail i can only think of the scree slope climb on black hill that i need to drop to the granny for…anyone do this on a 32? Ive tried but failed!

in the process of building up my first 1 x 9 figured i can ride 99% with 32 – 11 to 34 (and mostly do)

I think the appeal is because changing gear on the front can be so awkard, that pregnant pause to change up to the big ring, and the clunk to change to the granny – i tried single speed, and can sort of see the appeal in woodsy singletrack but elsewhere…

I'd like to try the Hammerschmidt which open up slick gear changing options