I own a variety of 29/26/700c bikes that I ride off road.
I think that the size of the wheels is probably not something that I consider particularly when I'm out on them.
Fork travel, tyre choice, the weather and how tired I am seem to have far more of an impact on how the bikes 'feel' than the size of the wheel rims.
Is the use of wheel size in reviews in magazines relevant?
Should they just focus on 'how it rides'? Given the changes in geometry on bigger wheeled bikes the 'old' prejudices are less and less relevant anyway.