Bruneep, Bike Remedy has one for hire in Stonehaven.

Bought a new bike last week, and my lbs has given me one of these for a couple of weeks to play with. I’ll report back after saturday….

Tried one tonight… calibrating a bit fiddly as you have to let all air out of the fork before battling the negative spring sucking down to extend to full travel.

That done it’s all quite simple. Got about three hours riding, and apparently my pressure, sag, rebound and just about everything else were spot on, just needed a couple clicks of high speed. Seems Mojo & Chainline know what they’re doing 🙂

George, just a thought, which position did you have the compression switch in? ie CTD? I imagine it would be best to do it in the mid setting and keep it there?.

I had it on my forks, they’re 36 RC2s, no CTD switch

That’s a good question, in that it tracks both uphill and downhill and makes recommendations on a the whole, so if you leave it open it would be tracking your behaviour on the climbs and skewing what it suggests based on an open fork being a bit soft on the climbs. I didn’t read any instructions or do much fiddling as time was short.

You have to leave adjusters in the same setting throughout, or you have to restart the session, if you don’t it’ll give you a false readin

Cool, I’ll just leave it in the mid setting.

Planning on a wee local trail that has a pretty full on descent, with a bit of a pedally traverse too, I’ll do the shock first and then the forks, though I’m pretty sure I won’t change my forks much, but you never know.

My experience was that forks are much easier to setup, rear was a lot trickier, i supposed there’s more pedaling input and big variation in suspension designs

All calibrated and ready to go for tomorrow.

Alex from Quarq recommended that the propedal or CTD be left open for the duration of the test on the mtbr thread.

Some great tips on this thread

Here’s the response that I was referring to

Quote Originally Posted by mugstud View Post
Alex, A good question up there seems to have been missed (or I’ve missed the response)
When I’m out riding I sometimes flick the switch on my shock into the “trail” setting for a long climb. How does that affect the data on the shockwiz? Should I just leave it open while the shockwiz is connected?
That’s a great question, and I’m glad you brought that up.

You’ve got it right, leave your suspension in ‘Open’ when tuning with ShockWiz. There are a few reasons for this; data integrity and giving ShockWiz an unrestricted view of how your suspension is behaving.

The Data Integrity piece is fairly easy as long as you understand a few things about how ShockWiz works. First up is knowing what a ‘Ride Session’ is, which is simply a period of time that ShockWiz is collecting data on your suspension. The Session length can last as long as you like, the only caveat is that nothing can change during it. If ANYTHING is changed, such as adding a click of rebound, removing air pressure, or flicking a switch from open to pedal, you’ve changed how the suspension behaves. This makes all the data gathered up to that point no longer relevant.

While riding with ShockWiz everything needs to remain constant while you gather data. Once sufficient data is gathered, you review the data and determine what needs adjusting. You can then act on the tuning Suggestions, per the Suspension Tuning Article found here.

Once changes have been made, you select ‘Start New Session’ within the app to clear your data. You then go for another ride and gather a new data set to determine if the changes you made were effective.

This process of riding, analyzing and adjusting, and then riding again to test the changes, makes up the Iterative Tuning process and outlines how ShockWiz should be used. You would repeat this process as many times as necessary until you are satisfied with both the Shock Tuning Score and feel of your suspension.

The unrestricted view piece is sort of tied into the Suspension Tuning Order, but basically you don’t want to mask the performance of the air spring with a bunch of compression damping. You really want all of your Compression damping to be fully open when you first start. This way ShockWiz gets the best look at how the combination of Pressure and Ramp are behaving. The combination of those are more or less the foundation of your tune and pretty much have the biggest impact on how your suspension will perform. Once you get those two correct, you move onto rebound. From there the remaining compression adjustments are just icing on the cake. You just keep working down the list of Suggestions, one at a time, until they’er as good as they can be.

Once you have your suspension dialed in ‘Open’, you can then use your climb switch or lockout as you see fit.

Alex@Quarq

Makes sense, cheers.

Hello folks. I’ll have one in the Bristol Bath area I’ll be hiring out in the next couple of weeks drop me an email if you’re interested.

Anyone know if the shockwiz works with a Bos deville fork? It looks like it won’t as I think the negative chamber fills up from the positive chamber and then equalises.

Anyone know if the shockwiz works with a Bos deville fork? It looks like it won’t as I think the negative chamber fills up from the positive chamber and then equalises.

It must do because that’s how most current forks and shocks pressurise their negative chamber, using a transfer port from the positive.

Their incompatibility list seems pretty comprehensive and Bos Deville is not listed so I’d be pretty confident it would work.

https://shockwiz.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/227843747-Known-incompatibility-list

sounds promising cheers, definitely want to try one out

Can I confirm that Shockwiz comes with the 2 hoses?
And not a extra.
Thanks

For £18 for a pair i’m tempted to hire one from my LBS for the day.. I’d be interested in what it suggests.

Comes with 2, a short and long.

Anyway, wee update –

I used it on the new Bronson last weekend. Calibrated it and then rode a longish climb, bit of a lumpy traverse, then a full on bit of everything descent.

It told me I needed a bit more air in the shock, and to remove a spacer. So, out of interest, i started a new session and rode for another hour or so, results were same again.

IMO, it just really confirmed that I wasn’t far off with the initial settings, didn’t suggest anything that would be a reveleation or owt.

I’d suggest if you’ve half a clue how your shock works, it’s not really for you. For a full suss novice, it’d be ideal.

I didn’t bother with the forks, As I’m pretty cool with how they’re running tbh.

Maybe if I’d been paying for it, I’d have followed it through to the end, but I’m happy with my set up, and aware that I need to make minor adjustments, but I do that dependant on where I’m riding anyway.

Thanks Nobeer,
Was wondering the same, I like to think I got forks/shock set up pretty well, inc tokens/spacers with stock forks/shocks, thinking it maybe it help to make adjustments quicker and confirm what I think on first setting up etc.

Or spend the money on a custom tune at TF tuned. As I never had custom tuned forks/shock before, so am really interested in that.

Or spend the money on a custom tune at TF tuned. As I never had custom tuned forks/shock before, so am really interested in that.

I had my old Fox CTD custom tuned on my SB66, and an avalnche upgrade on the Capra Monarch, both made a huge difference to how the bike rode. I’d do it agin no probs if I ever felt the bike would benefit from it.

Here’s the slightly lukewarm review I gave to my mates on FB:

My first week with it down in exmoor was a bit of a write-off, it’s particular how you connect to it with the Bluetooth, and then it’s battery died and I had to find a new one. No internet at the campsite, so I couldn’t look up a manual or video. So really I only had use of it from Sunday when I got back till last Friday.
I did a couple of rides with it on the full sus, ullock pike and borrowdale with it on the fork, and whinlatter for the shock, plus a quick sesh with it on the Scouts Yari . It’s a pain to swap round as you have to do the calibration proccedure each time you attach it, unless you know the specific compression ratios for your suspension unit.

Previous to this, I’ve always considered myself a bit numb to setup. We’ve all done sections with stuff locked out and not noticed havent we? But as it turns out, 15 years riding must have taught me something, as my fork settings were all just about on the mark. The main suggestions being to back off the HSC to pretty much nothing. I’ve settled on a couple of clicks in. The big three; PSI, ramp and rebound were all in the green for the “balanced” setup option.

Similar story with the shock, everything in the green apart from HSC damping which was too strong, but i’d have to get a specific tune to address that on the debonair as it’s not a manual control. I think it rides fine in any case.

So in summary, if you are already fairly happy with your current setup, you might be surprised to learn that its already as good as it gets, and the Shockwiz doesn’t have any magical tips to suddenly get it working like a prototype world cup unit. Given the current pricing, rental is very definitely the way to go, as all you might end up doing is confirming your own intuition, especially if your unit has limited tuning options.

it’s slightly worrying that pretty much everyone who uses it says “my setup was pretty much spot on”

Making me wonder if it’s worth bothering at all.

A couple of things Weeksy –

-I’d imagine if folks have it set up way off, then they may not fess up on t’internet?

-People who hire it are people who are actually interested in how their suspension works, ergo they actually are more clued up than they think?.

Just my tuppence.

The thing for me was that I’d got to a point where I thought I’d got it about right but didn;t have enough knowledge or time to decide whether to try and improve things.

a) I had to make a few small changes to rebound and shock pressure and I noticed them afterwards so using the thing had some value.

b) I now *know* that the setup is as good as it gets – before I just thought ‘well it’s ok and any more fiddling might make it worse’.

I’ll probably revisit it every 6 months or so to make sure the setup is still appropriate for where and how I ride my bike.

weeksy – Member
it’s slightly worrying that pretty much everyone who uses it says “my setup was pretty much spot on”

Making me wonder if it’s worth bothering at all.

my forks were OK, my rear shock wasnt

I kninda new it wasnt right, id changed to an evol can and had really struggled to get it sorted

I think for me what was good was playing around- removing volume spacers and reducing air pressure as nobeer was recomended- would result in different compression and rebound settings

I learnt quite a bit about what works best, for me I was able to increase air pressure and reduce bottom out getting a better feel than Id been able to achieve with spacers/ pressure

also good to get some numbers on whats best for a jumpy flowy trail vs a rooty techy one

For the cost of an average hire its a no brainer, even if only to find out if your feelings are any good, but if you were buying the hardware new, it’s defiantly not worth it. Anyone who got it at the kickstarter price will be laughing.

If you can set sag and get the rebound to feel ok, you’re 80% of the way there to what Shockwiz will tell you.

I’ve borrowed one of these but can’t get it to work with me rear shock. It’s a 2016 fox factory DPS with the evol air can fitted. I can’t get the blimming thing to calibrate, I go through the steps (and I’ve watched the video) but I keep getting a message saying it didn’t measure enough of a pressure change between full extension and compression. Help!

*I’ll try where I borrowed it from tomorrow, but thought I’d ask here as well

Quick Question about the phone app,
do you/can you select the make/model of the fork/shock?
and do you fill the settings you got all ready, like tokens etc?

There is no option to select the fork, though from the MTBR thread this sounds like something Quarq are considering. At least the ability to select what adjustments are available to your fork or shock.
You don’t need to add any current set up info. You calibrate and then ride, it will then make suggestions based on the performance

Anyone know who hires these in the north west ?

Dave, I could mibbe borrow one for a day from lbs, they’re pretty good that way, and meet ye for a Lakes ride?.

Top fella…. 24th / 25th ?

I reckon that could be a goer, 24th would be ideal. Boredale hause descent, coffee and cake, then Helvellyn would be a real sweet test of the shockwiz I reckon!.

Sent you an email mate.

Cool.

I hired one from 18bikes in Hope, £50 for the week.
Prior to potentially buying one.

Got to say the app is atrocious i.e. No saved sessions – have to do screen shots.
Then the feedback said all my air shocks and forks where pretty much setup perfectly.
So I found that if you sort of know how you are doing this is just a very expensive toy. I think there are better things to spend £50 to £350 on to improve your riding.

Thanks muggomagic, I thought that was the case,
but then I wounder how it know to recommend “adding” a token (when not all forks can do it) same with shocks.

I got a load of bands/reducers in the rear so might take them out and start from scratch as you never know that I might have to many. (but I might stick it on first to see what it thinks anyway)

Anyway it should turn up today.

So anyone in the Wiltshire area, (Based Devizes area) what to hire one let me know. (info at finelytunedride do co dot uk)

If it recommends adding tokens but your fork or shock doesn’t take them, you can add anything non compressible into the air spring chamber, extra fork oil, grease, piece of plastic cut to suit. Just check that it still cycles without interference and don’t use anything that will dissolve in the oil!