so i bought the right size bushings and bolts, the problem is the bushings sold as 8mm bolt dia measure up at 8.2 and the bolts again sold as 8mm measure up to 7.94 although it is only half mil at each end the there is enough movement to make a knocking sound and sensation. Anyone know if i can fix this, a coke can is to thick and foil tears
Bike Forum
shock bushings and bolts all new but still moves I know why but need help
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Posted 7 months ago #
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dont the bolts compress the bush so the bush doesnt move. The space around them shouldnt matter. Are the mount holes ok ? are you sure the movement is in the bush/bolt and not in the spacers/shock mount ?
Posted 7 months ago # -
We've had this on occasions,and as you've discovered, trying to remove fore and aft play by tightening side to side doesn't work too well. As long as it's an 8mm fitting, we've ordered the same bushes in 6mm and i've bored them to 7.9mm on the lathe, usually comes out as a very snug fit(Not got a fix for 6mm yet, as they don't do blanks).
Posted 7 months ago # -
what bike is it ?
Posted 7 months ago # -
The play around the bolt shouldn't matter, as the bolt should tighten/flex the frame/whatever the bolts mounts to, onto the shock hardware, gripping the ends of the hardware.
However, some frames are too solid to allow where the shock mounts to flex in much, meaning the hardware has to be a close fit for it to be clamped well enough not to move.
Posted 7 months ago # -
a iron horse yakuza 05 i dont think thr the bolts will tighten the mounts on the bike as they are rather solid looking but will try the 6mm and bore out to 7.9mm thanks for the help
Posted 7 months ago # -
No problem, can do it for you if you hven't got access to a lathe.
Posted 7 months ago # -
Boring out a smaller one sounds wrong to me.
Do you not find that the spacers turn against the frame? I can't understand how they would be tight enough to turn inside the bushing properly, yet loose enough to allow play.Posted 7 months ago # -
Just this min finished doing exactly the same job, but on a 2010 Marin Mount Vision Quad Link
After changing the bearings I could not get my head round the whole design. Basically I was still getting movement (side and lateral) on all the links and shock bushings, as there are clearance gaps between the quad link and the bike frame and also between the shock bushing and frame.
No way did I think you could close these clearance gaps (basically flexing the links and bosses on the frame) without overloading the bearings. I was so concerned about this, I only slightly tightened the M8 nuts which in effect would try to flex and close the gaps between quad links and frame and also the frame and shock bushings. This was obviously incorrect, as I ended up with play as stated above.
I then tightend all the M8 nuts to 16 NM, as Marin specify (no torque wrench, so this was a good guess at best)and all is now good.
I am really suprised that the links and frame bosses flexed enough to close the clearance gaps under this reletavely small amount of torque, but they did, and all now seems good. :o)
Just to confirm what is mentioned before. The shock reducing bushes are gripped on the outside faces, this holds the reducing bushes and alows the shock to turn on the shock bush, as the reducing bushes are wider than the shock eyelet.
Hope this helps.
Posted 7 months ago #
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