I know you need anti rotation nuts in your drop outs to transmit the torque

question is – do i need one on each side ? or is it like the rohloff where the torque gets transmitted through one side ?

before i make an expensive mistake building my fat bike !

I have just one on the left to stop the axle rotating (green one) and use a Surly chaintug on the drive side with the chrome spacer reversed to act as a washer due to the lenght of the acorn lock.
I stuck the white spacer in my tool bag just in case i have a chain break and add a link and require to move the wheel far back etc…
So far so good! 😮

my plan is to get a mukluk 170- 135 adaptor and mill 5mm off it – i have a 165 rear end …

build an alfine wheel with a 15mm offset to the NDS

“should” be job done !

I find if you use them both sides the wheel isn’t going to move anyway so the chaintug is redundant.

Mine slips forward over a few weeks. Have been considering tugs.

IMHO – the correct set up with vertical drop outs is to put the green locking doofers on both sides and then use a chain tensioner that you adjust independently – ie the wheel stays in place and tensioner is adjusted on a regular basis?

I just line it up and use a reasonably long spanner on the nuts.

I’ve got plenty spare tensioners, but they are not needed to retain the wheel if the nuts are tight.

thats a 170 to 135 adaptor – i need to do 165 to 135 so ill mill 5mm off it then if i think i can get it to work – and its not a million quid . would make the frame more versatile to me also !

get it milled on that side !

Looks like a job you could do at home with a piece of 12mm flat plate and a drill. Add a couple of 0.5mm washers to complete the spacing of the calliper mount or use a hope shim for the disk mount.

Relieving around the dropout side would not be too hard with a bit of care. A sharp wood chisel would remove enough metal.

aye but i think doing it right would mean less hassle when the enevitable happens in the freezing cold …..

i might not use the salsa kit i have access to the machinery and folk with the skills to machine me up one of my own designs 😉

Engineering heresey TR but I think the frame would cope with 5mm stretch,….but if you have access to a milling machine…

Good luck clamping it up!

Loving epicyclo’s bodging suggestions!

might look at the alfine – easier to take 5mm off the lock nut !

Changing subject slighty, my Alfine 8 has been hesitating to go to an easier gear, seems to be hub and not cable. This lunchtime I got a crunch and ‘chain slip’ in the middle of traffic, seems to be within hub slipping. Rechecked yellow lines but wondering if it needs a service already ? Every day use for 8 months often left outside.

That sounds like frosting up cable to me.

Double check before you spend money getting the hub serviced – ie strip cable off and put in a new inner – costs peanuts – and maybe first drizzle through some WD40 in its water dispersing role (I know it’s not a lubricant).