I’m in the process of compling a pile of bits to build up my new 29’er frame and I’ve seen these here as I fancy goign 1×9 on the drive train, I thought this might suit.

I’ve got 9spd XT shifters already and a basically new 9spd chain.

The blurb says it’s for 29’er wheels only, what does that mean? Will it not fit a normal 9spd freehub/cassette body?

IIRC it will fit standard freehubs, but it’s a bit beefier build to take the additional torque or something. Dont understand why it would need to be marked as 29er only though.

Just had s read and it’s something to do with that with a 36t rear it has to withstand 1500Nm and beefier pawls in Shimanos 29’er hubs.

Utter marketing twaddle I thinks

Should fit any shimano hub, I do remember some talk of how heavy they were, given they were built chunky. So if weight is an issue for you…etc, etc.

I can’t recall the weight of this but I remember someone on here suggesting it was bloody heavy (in the slightly odd world of comparing component weights)…

About 470gms if I recall.

About 470gms if I recall.

FROUK* me!

Surely extra torque is bobins, no different to a 26’er in the granny ring? and if there is a differenc esurely it’ll be less than the difference between a weekend warrior and an XC racer’s power output?

*Sheffield reference , definately not swear filter avoidance.

EDIT. 422g* for mine. i’ve got one. the low gear is nice. but is it that nice. even the 11-32 hg61 offers a massive saving. when you look at it it’s easy to see why. take off the 11t and add a 36t.

*that’s a national standards tracable balance before anyone asks. 😉

tomthumb – is that easy to do on a cassette?

I’ve currently got a SLX 11-32, could I remove the 11 off that and add a 36 to the back?

*that’s a national standards tracable balance before anyone asks.

I remember working in a lab and not being allowed to use the claibrated equipment to make sure it didn’t get lost.

For example (anf this equipment needed to be loyds certified).

“Sample should be posititioned within 180deg vertialc or horisontaly of the axis of the duct outlet and orientated within +/-180deg of the horisontal and vertical axis.”

In other words, the part had to be held anywhere and at any angle in front of the pipe!

As far as I can tell, the main reason for a cassette to be considered as 29er compatible, would be to compensate for the higher gearing that is introduced by the larger wheels.

If you spend a few minutes punching wheel sizes and chainset/cassette teeth numbers into the gear calculator at http://www.sheldonbrown.com, you’ll see what difference it makes.

I have an 11-36 cassette and a 22-32-42 chainset on my 29er, which means I lose at little bit at both ends of the gear range, compared to my 26er, which uses 11-32 & 22-32-44

Might just buy a 11-34 to replace it and leave a double on the front

Also, the cassette should fit onto a standard freehub – my Bontrager Ranger wheels came with an 8 speed cassette, but quite happily accepted a 10 speed without problems – so I’m not sure why hubs would be 29er specific

if a 29er wheel is approx 10% bigger than a 26er, could you not just run a 32tooth ring up the front? I run a 34 or a 36 normally, a 32 front ring on a 29er is about the same as a 36 front ring on a 26er

tomthumb – is that easy to do on a cassette?

no not easy. (it can be done but it will cost more than the 12-36 casette). but thats what shimano have done (sort of) and thats why it is heavy. when you look at the two casettes side by side (i have the 11-32 on my 26″) you can see the extra metal.

meant to add it will fir any freehub.

it is ’29er specific’ to go on the shimano ’29er specific’ hubs – apparently it generates too much torque for the normal shimano hubs. i run it on a hop alloy freehub – no real issues (does cut it a bit)

has anyone tried swapping the 12t and lockring for an 11t ?

I obviously need to MTFU then, as I don’t seem to be generating enough torque 😉
Mind you, the Bontrager wheels may not have Shimano freehubs, so that would be a factor to consider.
Interesting stuff!

I bought the M529 hubs for my peregrine. I thought I should go for the “properly torque rated” stuff, as I’ll be taking it off road a fair bit. I also read a story on here about someone having a normal SLX hub on a 29er and it failing, which was taken into account as a “Will I Die” “FACT” 🙄

Wish I hadn’t. It’s 1×9 anyway, with 48T on the front. I’ve grunted (knees straining!) up some South Downs hills with that set up and although it was a bit much, I can’t see myself ever wanting to go as low as 22/36.

I’m not a massively burly or massively powerful rider, so I doubt I’d trouble one of those A2Z hubs that njee recommends, and my back wheel would be 164g lighter…

Well standard Shimano freehubs are not fit for use.

Well,

There’s bugger all in it between a 34 & 36 when coupled with a 32 front ring. A whole 1.5″

The 12-36 cassette has individual sprockets and spacers, held together (for assembly convenience only, not in-use strength) by rivets.
These cassettes will chew into an alloy or titanium freehub and can prove difficult (read impossible) to remove.
There is nothing to stop you fitting a 36T sprocket and then another **-32T cassette and losing a small sprocket.
Wheer can you buy a 36T sprocket?
Remember the 11T has its own lockring, and all cassettes are ‘grouped’ to facilitate gear changes. Mixing and matching will nearly always work, but not optimally.
I used to assemble my own cassettes with my favourite ratios some years ago, but the current trend for spider sub-assemblies has removed that fun.

PaulD

These cassettes will chew into an alloy or titanium freehub and can prove difficult (read impossible) to remove

as i said above it’s chewed in a bit – but it comes off fine. i might eventually have to replace my hope freehub – if i do i’ll buy steel – so far the freehub body has lasted 3 years – i reckon it’ll do at least 3 more.

Wheer can you buy a 36T sprocket?

http://www.actiontec.us/ticog.htm

custom cassettes are expensive – hence the comments about hacking shimano.