How, what with and how often?
Any other advice appreciated – after 30 mins of roof timbers and the occasional nail, I know…

How dull is the chain? Is it producing sawdust or nice long clearly defined cuttings?

In short you’ll need the correct file for your chain. The chain is supplied with the information and size of file required to sharpen the teeth. The file can be bought with a guide to help keep it at the correct angle. After you’ve sharpened the chain a number of times the cutting teeth begin to reduce in height and the depth gauges need filing down accordingly. There’s loads of vids on Youtube covering this.

Regarding frequency, I have a quick look at my chain every couple of hours whilst cutting clean wood up off of the ground. If the chain ever gets buried in the dirt, hits a nail or old piece of embedded debris it’ll probably need sharpening straight away.

Once you know what you’re looking for, the easiest indicator of chain health is the consistency of the cuttings. Dust = blunt…Long ribbons of freshly cut wood = sharp. Again, plenty of info on youtube.

D.

What he ^ says. Most likely 7/32″ file though.

I use a file with one of the long flat guides clipped onto it for the cutting blades and flat files with a wee metal guide for the depth guides. Sharpened often if I can be bothered!

Chain tension and oil are absolutely key in keeping it cutting well too.

if you hit a nail at all, you wont want to continue without sharpening again. Hitting metal at those revs takes the edge off instantaneously, and after that it will cut like a dog.

I run my file through every few hours of felling and loggingg of virgin timber. If I’m cutting up rafters I nick my dad’s saw and **** that up rather than my own 😀

If you’re consistently hitting nails and it’s a small chainsaw, consider swapping over to Oregons powersharp system with the self sharpening kit, it is awesome for dirty wood cutting.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/oregon-powersharp-16-40cm-bar-sharpener-pack/2074K?kpid=2074K&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=Cj0KEQiAwrbEBRDqxqzMsrTGmogBEiQAeSE6ZS6dBCOy8UpdPSt2Xqgx5OQMdP5Fc6nGbYLLcZBi72IaAhtW8P8HAQ

Always preferred those little roller guides, myself. That said, getting your basic NPTC chainsaw ticket not only teaches you to use it safely, but how to maintain it as well. Don’t forget to wear chainsaw trousers!

+1 for the powersharp option. Ideal for the occasional user.

Slight hijack….

How do I know my chain needs replacing? How many times can it be sharpened?
I give mine a light (2-3 passes of the file) sharpen every tank of fuel, which is what I saw recommended somewhere but there’s no reference point for how long it lasts, i’ve probably done that 20-30 times now, still on the OE Husky chain……

@PeterPoddy – there’s usually a little maximum wear mark in the top of the cutter link, looks like a tiny engraved diagonal line. Once that is reached it’s time to get a new one.

But nothing is that straightforward: The wear on the underside of the link is also critical, as if the chain has been run too slack the whole cutting link will worn at the back and be canted back at an angle. Depth of cut ramps (the little shark fin shaped bit) also need adjusting periodically. And the bar itself will need dressing periodically to remove any burr.

My dads generation of family members who played with old chains in their cots would keep sharpening until the teeth fell off. Might be a touch extreme but you know what those war babies were like when keeping things going.
Mine are close.

If you look on the top plate there is usually a line across it at the back to indicate how far back you can sharpen it.

And the bar itself will need dressing periodically to remove any burr.

No problem with that. 🙂

as if the chain has been run too slack the whole cutting link will worn at the back and be canted back at an angle.

Didn’t know that, good info thanks, but it should be fine. I don’t like slack chains.

there’s usually a little maximum wear mark in the top of the cutter link, looks like a tiny engraved diagonal line. Once that is reached it’s time to get a new one

Hmm. Can’t see on on the current chain or the replacement I’ve got waiting…..

We save up our old chains for cutting rubbish, river stuff, telegraph poles etc. Old ones are the ones that are a couple of sharpens behind the wear markers with the rakes flattened out.

Majority of 3/8″ requires 7/32″.
Need to make sure that the file is engaging with the tooth when sharpening and not the drive links.

Sharpened but not cutting? When were the rakers last reduced?

Sharpening is as required, otherwise you are just filing away good chain. Softwood felling could be 3 days between sharpening. Cross cutting that timber after extraction, where a good finish is required, may only be 20 minutes between sharpens due to the mud and rubbish.

PP- when the teeth start falling off is our guide of having got our moneys worth.

Also worth flipping the bar every so often.