Looking at purchasing a new set of wheels and tyres, and like the look of the schwalbe tyres and crest rims. But I’ve read online they can be a bit tight, and sometimes, impossible to fit. The tyres I was looking at are a 2013 production and the problems people were on 2011/12 tyres? Does anyone have experience of the new 2013 tyres (Maybe too early but worth a shot) or do they know that schwalbe have changed the design and crest rims?

Tyres – http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k371/a83326/nobby-nic-evo-4x-snake-skin-gatestar-225-tl-ready-folding.html?mfid=78

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k371/a83324/nobby-nic-evo-dd-pacestar-21-tl-ready-folding.html?mfid=78

Have a couple of TL ready Sxchwalbes on Crests and they were no more difficult to get on than tubeless tyres uusually are. Whingers always gon’ whinge mate.

Thi k its only the Ralph’s and Nics that are tight on the stans rims.

I just fitted a Ralph and a Nic to new 29er Crests…..went on now problem and inflated tubeless with just a track pump. Oh and funnily enough mine came from those nice Germans too.

Got the RRalphs on mine with no real problem. Easier than putting on road tyres anyway. Can I just say if you’re going to run the schwalbe tubeless get the snakeskin ones. Too many bad reports of split sidewalls with the standard ones

Jez http://www.followingthechainline.blogspot.com

I’ve got crests with a Ron and a Ralph. They gone ok. You’ll need a lever but its definitely not impossible

Making sure you get sidewalls in the well of the rim one side at a time helps. soapy water if really tricky and a long metal lever.

Its the 2011 version that are tight on the rim, the ETRTO on the tyre was really small… I.e. the diameter of the tyre bead. This coupled with the really large external diameter of the crest rims meant they were pretty much impossible to get on, and if you did they’d not go up or blow off the rim at some point.

Schwalbe have remedied this for 2012 versions, and pre-2011 so non pacestar compound also fit fine on crests. But, Stans still say they don’t recommend them for use.

Pre 2011 are some of the easier tyres to tubeless.

Not TLR, but I had to put a tube in a Ron tonight, a couple of miles from home, after a slowish puncture (sealant all dried up…..).
Didn’t need tyre levers despite numb fingers. As above, dropping the bead into the chanel is key.
I know the TLR one s are tighter, but must be OK with a lever.

I know the TLR one s are tighter, but must be OK with a lever.

Lol. Definitely not the 2011 ones, I know a few who have broken tyre levers and broken the tyre beads from them blowing off. I won’t touch the new ones just in case I get the tight batch.

The earlier and later ones are a little tight, but no tighter than any other tubeless ready tyres I’ve used though. And they go up very easily as they fold out nicely into a round profile, not floppy or kinked.

Gatestar Racing Ralphs on Crest rims here – fitted easily, and went up with a track pump no problems at all. Definitely go with snakeskin side walls though, I ran NN evo’s with the standard side walls for a while, and they squirm at low pressures IMO.

Thanks for the replies, ordered the 2012 ones to save some money and did go for the snake skin version too.