• This topic has 13 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by RicB.
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  • Sagging Reverb
  • dougieb
    Free Member

    Ok, so both my reverbs are now sagging 5-10mm and I’ve ruled out air pressure and bleeding.

    One of them has seen good service and I’ll probably need to get that serviced (or do it my self if I’m feeling brave). Anybody attempted the basic service, was it easy and did it fix a sagging post? I’m happy servicing my forks but I’ve heard that the reverbs are a pita.

    The second post (150 stealth) is only 18 months old. I know that SRAM provides a 2 year warranty and in the past sagging has been a valid warranty claim. I have read that they are now changing their stance on this and saying that it needs a paid for service. Anybody had any luck getting SRAM to accept a sagging post as a warranty claim in the last 6 months or so?

    patriotpro
    Free Member

    I’ve just received a new one (new model too) albeit within 12 months for the same problem.

    Just give SRAM a call

    kelvin
    Full Member

    Good luck! Was told a “service” for mine… and the price for that was… well… new post time.

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    Onzadog
    Free Member

    Easy fix with a few specific tools and a new internal floating piston. If its the alu one, it’s a known issue, if it’s the black plastic one, it still didn’t sort it. Only the blue skf one piece items holds the promise of trouble free performance.

    In theory, available as a stand along part, in practice, tricky to track down.

    patriotpro
    Free Member

    and the price for that was

    £0

    swanny853
    Full Member

    Just de-sagged my stealth reverb. It’s an evening’s job, the most specialist tool needed was a syringe and a bit of hose with a tape marking the correct length. The hardest to find was an 8mm spanner. Apparently I have small spanners, then 10mm up. But no 8mm.

    Look at the sram service video- there’s a point towards the end where it tells you how to set the post oil height. You need to dismantle the post as far as required to get the that stage (iirc it’s once the poppet is out), no further. Setting the oil height cures the bounce, then reassemble. It is very sensitive to that height though, took me a few goes.

    In my experience a full service on a reverb is a recipe for scratching sealing surfaces without noticing until your post loses air and you have to ride 20 miles home standing up 😳 . YMMV of course. The innards on mine were pristine after 3 years of regular use and you can do the bushes without opening the hydraulic circuit, so why would you? The three reverbs on mine/OHs bikes are now getting bled as above and bushing replacements as required, nothing else, until they fall apart.

    DezB
    Free Member

    Anybody had any luck getting SRAM to accept a sagging post as a warranty claim in the last 6 months or so?

    Mine’s due back Monday after warranty repair for a saggy seat. (via the retailer)(purchased 07/16)

    dougieb
    Free Member

    Thanks guys. I’ll probably have a go at the out of warranty one myself. Depending on how that goes, I may or may not chance it and send the stealth back to SRAM

    @swanny did you purchase the basic service kit and replace the various seals / o-rings that it comes with, or was it a case of just addressing the oil height / air contamination issue

    lardman
    Free Member

    My reverb has just come back from CRC because it was both sagging, and the remote started playing up after nearly two years. CRC said Sram serviced it. I was hoping for a replacement.

    Reverbs have an 18 month lifespan, then put them in the bin.
    Servicing is too expensive to be a proper solution.

    RicB
    Full Member

    I did a little how-to type guide a while ago click here

    I had to do this again on mine recently and it took about an hour. As above, even with proper the oil height tool it’s a bit fiddly and I had to do mine a couple of times.

    swanny853
    Full Member

    In the past I’ve done a full strip down and rebuild. First one was OK but post went saggy again about 9 months later. Second time I didn’t replace seals but must have scratched something because it stopped holding air. Third time replaced all seals (in case that was causing the leak) but no success.

    Ended up buying a SH reverb off here.

    To do the internal bleed on a stealth you need snap ring pliers of the ‘make smaller’ kind, syringe plus hose plus tape to make height guage, reverb fluid and some common tools. Remote bleed kit too.

    If you have the bushes and the ones in the post look worn, I’d replace them. Otherwise I wouldn’t worry. Don’t undo anything called ‘inner seal head’ (I think). That’s where it starts to get difficult.

    The non stealth version you can do the same but from the top of the post. Worth the five quid or so for the oil height tool there as it makes it easy.

    swanny853
    Full Member

    What Ric B said. Stealth is the same principle.

    Ric- I’ve rebuilt the post dry and then trickled the fluid in through the top. A bit slow but a lot less frustrating than accidently pushing the something in too far and having to start again.

    swanny853
    Full Member

    Please don’t miss the cautions about the poppet coming out at speed! I recommend putting something over the top to catch it. And wear glasses of some sort.

    RicB
    Full Member

    I managed to somehow push down on the post and about 30ml of oil squirted out of the poppet port into my face. Nice!

    I kind of vacuum bled mine by compressing the post fully when the poppet valve was removed, cleaning the oil off my face, filling the port/poppet hole full of oil, extending the post 5mm to suck the oil in a bit and then repeating this until post was fully extended. Best bleed I’ve had and the post is rock solid.

    Having to do it again was my fault – I was being lazy and picking the bike up by the saddle when the post was compressed, which just sucks air in.

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