http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-29er-forks-2×10-slx-drive-train-xtr-chainset-rings

Just bought and fitted these forks… However they don’t seem to come with a lockout cable/attachment. I assumed they were manual but seem to be not the case.

3 questions then….

1. Is it my fault or the sellers ?
2. Is there a way of setting it manually so i can ride ASAP into non-lockout ?
3. What do i need to order ?

thanks guys.

I assume one of these ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rock-Shox-SRAM-Rockshox-PushLoc-remote-handlebar-mount-fork-lockout-control-LEFT-/380769394606?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item58a79fdfae#ht_1652wt_1399

I’d say you’d need the cable and lever.

If I was being uncharitable I’d think the pictures were taken to minimise views of the top of the stanchion/bit of crown where the cable attaches.

What did seller say?

Dunno mate, only just mailed him.

I don’t think for a second he was being dishonest…. but i can see it costing me £30 to sort this and it means my ride tomorrow and Friday are both canned as i’ve shipped out the forks i removed last night to the new buyer of them already 🙁

IIRC you can do something internaly (remove a spring?) to effectively make them a crown opperated lockout (with an un-ergonomic lever, but it works).

That would certainly work short term TINAS yeah.

Would one of these be acceptable for the longer term ? Sorry for the daft questions lads but this has really thrown me a curveball as i wasn’t even considering needing this so not had to research at all.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/rockshox-poploc-dual-lever-assembly/rp-prod85890

Can you just go old school and run them without a lockout?

If my memory serve me correctly you can use an old gear cable to set the lockout lever to open.

Naturally, would be best to have a lockout lever, but this means you can go riding.

They’re unlocked by default (unless they’ve changed recently?), so you can ride them, just not lock them out.

There is a spring you can remove within the MoCo damper to stop it springing back open and do it manually.

If the lockout is cable operated then they should be set to not locked out?

If I remove the cable from my SIDS they are open – it’s just not possible to lock them

The lock out wasn’t pictured, sorry I think its your fault.

On the Reba’s you can twist the cap and lock it in place by tightening a screw with an allen key, can’t tell from the picture if it uses same parts.

Also check pressures with shock pump (i’ve made a mistake not adjusting both sides, although it depends very much on the fork!)

If you do a google search you might be able to find a service manual for this model which might help identify what you need to do also.

Hope that helps.

Satch

Now i’m confused then, i can promise you it’s set as default to locked out, i can rotate the blue part on top through 180 deg or so and then it becomes unlocked and i can push the forks up and down.

P.S I don’t mind if it is my fault as such… that’s not the point of the discussion to throw blame about. I just need to know the best way to resolve things.

Had a chat with TF Tuned about removing the cartrisge to remove the spring and it doesn’t seem to be the end of the world…

They came wthout any pressure at all in them so i inflated to about the sticker pressure for my weight.

I’d hazard a vague guess (judging by the strange colour) that it’s off a complete bike – some of which use a dual lockout with the function reversed. There will still be a spring in the stack you can remove though – PeterPoddy did a good guide IIRC – try finding it.

take an old gear or brake cable, run it through the cable stop, turn to unlocked, use grub screw to secue and trim off the cable

(old ones were unlocked in the default, new are locked which is a pain as it means a broken pop loc leaves you with a rigid fork)

some of which use a dual lockout with the function reversed

It appears so. It’s weird that the inside of the cap on the leg has the cable and barrell, so it’s essentially the reverse of ones i’ve seen which have the barrel in the lever on the bar and cable with a crimped end on the fork leg.

sssimon – Member
take an old gear or brake cable, run it through the cable stop, turn to unlocked, use grub screw to secue and trim off the cable

Result… thank you.. i now at least have forks that work. I’ve made it nice and pretty… it now goes up and down beautifully 🙂

However, I still need some ideas on poploc please gents

P.s thanks for all the advice.

Hmmmm looking at the service manual here

http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/sid-rl#specs

It seems the blackbox at top of fork leg doesnt have the soldered part, just normal cable trimmed and then held with grub screw.

Just need to work out if that means a pushloc lever is the type I need instead?

Ahhh darn, was eyeing up those sids thinking someone would get in before I, but the colour just would of clashed on my dirty harry plus I love the maxled niners fitted.

Thanks all for the advice to help Weeksy get them working, I’d have asked the same questions had I fitted them to a bike.

Weeksy – YHM

PPs Conversion PDF HERE if anyone needs it.

I think it was Scapegoat that managed to remove the spring completely. Write his name three times and he might appear…

Linky no worky mate.

YGM Weeksy, and for anyone else that’s mailed I will get to them in the next day or so have been off for the last 3 days looking after my son whose ill. Cheers Simon.

Things are slightly different since I wrote that guide. Same principal though and fairly easy to do….
BUT once you’ve released the spring it’s going to be a right faff to put it back again, if it can indeed be done at all. So be aware of that.
I don’t like bar mounted lockouts, too fussy and too much faff really.
If you want to have a lever though, I’d get on straight away rather than release the spring then try to put it back. You can easily ride without lockout for a few weeks 🙂

I don’t want/need the lever mate, I just want the forks to work correctly LOL. If it’s with a lever or with a crown adjust/lockout that’s cool.

I’ve also had a reply from LOCO tuning with a bit of info

“you could swap the damper out for crown top adjust (rl £55, RLT £65 or RCT3 £125”

This is deffo sounding like potentially the best option given the circumstances and costs, I can live with that.

Just a question of whether I can swap out the damper cartridge myself if I go for one of them I guess.

Lifes too short… ordering the RLT kit… Thanks for the chat LOCO 🙂

Much appreciated.

Isn’t it just a case that they’r. Pushloc rather than poploc?
the default ie. No cable tension position is locked with pushloc, unlocked with poploc.

Even if that’s the case, the price wouldn’t be that much different for the pushloc lever/cable etc, plus then i’d have something bar mounted which i’m not that keen on in all honesty. So i’d prefer the crown mounted option in all honesty.

teasel – Member
PPs Conversion PDF HERE if anyone needs it.

I think it was Scapegoat that managed to remove the spring completely. Write his name three times and he might appear…

Once will do it.

Yes, you can disable the spring or remove it completely. Use a 24mm socket to remove the MoCo cartridge, and either use a pick or screwdriver to reach in and remove the spring from its anchor point on the shaft inside the cartridge, or unscrew the top part of the cartridge (it’s left hand thread) and remove the spring completely. Make sure you make a note of how it’s all assembled before you take it apart. I discovered you can reassemble it with the floodgate/damper assembly turned through 180 degrees which stops the cartridge from locking out.

As a heath robinson glove friendly crown lockout solution I used a small pop rivet jammed under the grub screw on the remote spool as a thumb lever.

I just took the entire MoCo damper out of two different pairs of RS forks. Never noticed a difference, and saved a chunk of weight (115g on a Reba World Cup IIRC).

Don’t worry, I flagellate myself for such heathen behaviour.

Thanks all.

I’ve taken the slightly more drastic step and it’s being sent off to Loco to have a knob kit fitted which will give me the on/off via the top of fork leg. I know I could have had a quick and easy ‘fix’ but I went to take the bike out just before and my calf that I tweaked when running on Sunday still isn’t perfect, so taking the next few days off riding while the damper is at LOCO isn’t a major issue.

For anyone interested, this is the removed damper just before it went in a packet to LOCO

Anohter minor question if you don’t mind lads.

I managed to pour some/half/unknown ammounts of fork out of the top of my fork leg at the weekend. !!!! Picked up the front of the bike to wheel it out and forgot I have no damper fitted.

Spoke to LOCO and browsed the internet, so have the figure of 96ml of fluid and have ordered the right weight fork oil. (I only had 10W here for motorbikes).

So, it’s just a case of taking the forks off, tipping them upside down and letting the remaining fluid drain out ? or anything else I need to do ? On motorbike forks you can get remaining fluid in the bottom of legs inside the cartridge etc, so just wanted to check with you lot first.

Top service from LOCO Tuning… arrived with them today and is already on it’s way back to me 🙂

Brilliant…

So, it’s just a case of taking the forks off, tipping them upside down and letting the remaining fluid drain out ?

Yep to replace the damping fluid, just take the damper out (which you have done) and tip the fork over and let the old stuff drain out.

Thanks matey. I think i’m all good to go once it arrives back…

Well, assuming the fluid arrives at the same time that is.

I now have a fully working fork!

Great service from loco!

I’m a happy bunny!

All done, forks now have correct fluid levels and bounce as they should. Testing tomorrow.

Minor techie question.

When you remove the fluid, it’s necessary to pump the for legs to get all the fluid out of the chambers in the bottom of leg, however when I put it all together, I never thought to do so. My lockout works, I get full travel etc, but unsure as to whether the lower areas are fully filled etc. Now, I guess you could say “well it will all go down there anyway”, but I don’t know if I need to do something as I’ve re-attached the damper and now it’s therefore a sealed and pressurised unit etc. I did notice when putting together that the level was arguably higher than i’d have thought it should be… but never registered as to why.

So should I remove the damper, the air and gently pump it all around ? or is it all good ?

Well, the answer seems to be “yeah it circulates fully as it is and is fine” the level was where I expected it should have actually been. All checked though so my mind is at rest.

Just as a final update for anyone who’s not given up on this thread…

Just did 20 miles of XC on the new forks and they’re excellent, smooth when you need them, stiff as a board when locked out, really happy with them… Even though they’re a perculiar blue LOL