<than one months use so far. Its either like a Pogo stick (90% of the time) or sags/sits through most of its travel. I’ve got the pressure set to either 150-180psi (Im 95kg). Do you have to be clear and very precise when turning the pro-pedal (currently on 3).

TBH Hora the pressure is fairly irrelevant without knowing what frame it is
i.e. the RP23 on my Yeti runs at 190psi – I’m 12st 10

Set the pressure to about 210psi (I have the same suspension and weight the same). Sit on the bike and then get off again, the suspension should have only moved about 8-10mm.
Then set the other bits in the middle (average). Go for a nice long ride with a bit of every thing in it; single track, rocks, jumps etc.
Next time, do the same ride but change just one thing (not the pressure) and see how it feels. It’s very personal, what feels good for me may be very different for you.
Just so you know mines a Yeti 575.

Horst-link frame (Chumba XCL Racing).

Have you seen this thread?

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=489918&highlight=rp23

Ta uplink, it seems inconclusive on the psi- I tried running mine low and it sank the whole way through its travel.

I am also impressed with the versatility of this bike. – it is one of the few bikes that rides well with either a 32 or 36 fork

🙄 😆

hora, i run mine (09 XCL) at about 170 and i am about 90kg when fully geared up. If it feels like a pogo stick, maybe you need to find the right pressure for the correct sag and then dial in more rebound to stop the pogo effect?

Just out of interest, on the shock body it should say what the compression tuning is set to, what is yours?

Will check and report later

My 2005 RP3 did this on my HL 5spot. It turned out to be damping control, not PSI.

If I set the PSI for the correct amount of static sag, it rode like a dog scraping its arse on the ground, with loads of mid travel wallow.

If I pressurised it more to get rid of the arse scraping behaviour, It had a bout 15% sag and wasn’t very compliant.

I did some reading on MTBR and spoke to TFT about it, and it was basically poor damping control in the middle stroke of the circuit. I had it pushed at TFT and it was soooooooo much better. I’m still running that same shock now BTW.

TBH, I though Fox sorted that on their shocks last year. You’re a bit above the normal weight range – maybe you’re overwhelming the damping circuit?

You’re supposed to set the sag with all pro-pedal off too.

Sounds more like damping to me.
Run it a bit slower with slightly higher pressure.

I had exactly the same problem with my RP23 (withan 08 RP23 ona 07 yeti 575 frame). Ended up having to get it pushed and now it’s a dream, the back end deosnt buck and it’s so much smoother on the downs. Run it PP 2 most of the time and knock it off for down hill

From the shock body:
Rebound is on the smallest bar (1 of 3)
Compression is in the middle bar (2 of 3)

if all is still a mystery I would recommend a trip to your LBS (if you got it from them if not be nice to them) and get some setup tips

From the shock body:
Rebound is on the smallest bar (1 of 3)
Compression is in the middle bar (2 of 3)

Ignore that. It’s just the spec/tune of the shock as fitted to your bike.

1) Set the sag as in your bike’s user manual. This is easiest done by letting all the air out of the shock, bottoming out the suspension and noting where the O-ring sits at full travel. Leave it there, then inflate the shock again so it opens out. Measure the distance between the seal on the bottom of the shock body and the O-ring. This is your shock stroke. Set static sag as indicated in the manual, but otherwise 20% of the stroke is a good starting point

2) Set the rebound. (Red dial) A heavier rider needs LESS rebound damping than a lighter one, as their weight slows the rebound speed instead. Count how many clicks or turns the rebound dial has from fully slow ( +, more damping) to fully fast ( -, less damping) and for 95kg I’d say 3/4 of the way open (Towards fast, less damping) would be a good starting point. Then, if the suspension feels harsh, add more damping, if it feels wallowy, take some off.
But you won’t know this until you go out for a proper ride. Bouncing up and down and riding round the block is useless.

3) Propedal – There are 3 different settings on an RP23. Selected by pulling out the little numbered blue dial and aligning the number (1,2,3,) with the lever. Start on 2 I’d say. The lever then toggles the shock between the selected propedal setting and fully open.
On some bikes this has more effect than others, but I’d say setting 1 is for riders who like the PP turned on all the time, 2 is good for genearal on/off riding and 3 I only ever used when I knew I’d need to do some standing on the pedals to climb. Just my opinion though!

One final thing – There is ABSOLUTELY NO POINT copying someone else’s settings. Every bike is different and every rider is different. Nobody else can do it properly for you.
THE only way to do it is to understand how your shock works and what the adjusters do, then notice the effect each adjustment makes.
Make ONE adjustment at a time, in small increments, test it properly, and then try again. If you adjust 2 things at once, how do you know which one was right and which one was wrong? It usually takes me 5-6 rides to get a new bike/fork working just right for me. Slowly-slowy-catchee-monkey!

Hope this helps.
:o)

PP. Thats very helpful thank you.

I’ve got a new RP23 too. Is it normal to have a bit of oil leak through the seal onto the shaft? Seems to collect as oily gunk on the O-ring.

I bought an RP23 from TFT and got it PUSHed immediately (it was cheap and I was chancing that all the positive reviews were right). It was to replace a shitty DHX5 Air on a 5 Spot that got stuck down.

Given I never ran it in stock Fox form I can’t compare but I really like the way it rides with the PUSH upgrade. TFT said 170psi and PP2, which is entirely specific to me and the bike, like others have said. But it’s schweet.

The alternative to finding your sweet spot by incremental adjustment is to bracket it. See this article and links therein: http://www.leelikesbikes.com/setting-rebound-the-curb-test.html. I tried it a bit and thought it made sense, the logic being you start by differentiating between extremes where even the ham-fisted can tell the difference and then refine that. It appealed to me, although with TFT saying max 4 clicks rebound there wasn’t much scope to **** up 😉

Always thought sag first, rebound second, PP third (not that you can change much wrt the PP).

I like short runs which I know well to try and set up a fork / shock e.g. Descent Line at Stainburn. That way you can do lots of runs, in fairly quick succession to compare potential affects.

In these days of platform shocks, the curb test isn’t really very useful anymore.

I used to use it all the time prior to platform damping though.

🙄

Can someone tell me if my slight oil leak is normal? PLease.

Can someone tell me if my slight oil leak is normal? PLease.

If its a small ring of oil, that is perfectly fine.

csb mine does that