Thanks chaps, some really useful stuff - typically I am thinking about bike set up when in reality I should be thinking about my legs. That said, I will use broader tyres with thicker tubes and pumped up hard to try to avoid punctures if possible (standing at the side of the road furiously using a mini pump like I'm trying to stab a rabbit with a plastic spoon is not the image I have in mind).
Your not the John Talen of Dwars fame and TDF rider are you?
No, not me, but it is one of his old bikes and if I hold my breath and squint for long enough I can persuade myself that he rode the Ronde on this one.
Great bike there, you could just buy a 38.
I think that I might do that although it may be as easy/easier to just swop out the cassette if I have a slightly gentler one in the shed.
my only concern with your set up is downtube shifters, taking your hands off the bars on the faster cobbled bits could get interesting.
I'm guessing the faster cobbled bits are flat or downhill (certainly won't be uphill!)? From Paris-Roubaix in 2010 I found that the approach on the flat was to hold the bars on the tops and turn as big a gear as you reliably could as placing hands on the hoods was a recipe for really bruising the webs on your hands. And downhill I think I will be more concerned with slowing down/staying on than changing gear. I know what you mean about downtube shifters though, however I am trying to convince myself that they have a certain elegance,
elan even and just leave it at that.
a skinny steel frame will float over the top if you go fast enough
That's what I hope although with a biffer like me aboard 'float' isn't perhaps the word I would have chosen