I few years back I owned some Reba SL I had these set up quite hard so there was no bounce when standing up riding. Now I’m sure to do this I just chucked a little more air in the top/positive valve. When I do this to the revelation there is little change in the bob when riding. Any ideas?

Usually if you want LESS bob, you have LESS pressure in the negative chamber than the positive. If you want the forks to be more responsive to small bumps, have more in the negative (but do not exceed + or – 15%)

Have you looked in the instructions? it should tell you optimum positive PSI for your weight.

Air forks are much more responsive than oil ones I find. Just got my first air forks set up (reba team 2009), and they are more bouncy than my old Suntour’s.

increase the compression damping

Have you looked in the instructions? it should tell you optimum positive PSI for your weight.

yeah thats the thing I’m doing what I think is right according to the instructions, I’ll have a look at this compression damping. thanks

correct me if I’m wrong, but compression damping is the little adjuster usually on the bottom of the fork (opposite site than negative air valve)?

correct me if I’m wrong, but compression damping is the little adjuster usually on the bottom of the fork (opposite site than negative air valve)?

you’re wrong 😀 it’s the blue dial at the top

JxL rebound is on the bottom of the leg . . . I hope

that’s rebound – red for rebound. Compression is the blue dial at the top of the right leg.

I’d question why you’re using revs if you’re trying to run them with loads of compression damping and hard spring rates though. Sounds like you should be on rebas or sids.

D’oh! thanks for clearing that up 🙂 I have remote poplock, and so far only thought you can either open it to full or lock them out completely!

you can alter the amount of compression damping using the floodgate knob, it’s possible to set it up so that it’s either really active (off) or firm so it doesn’t dive on v.steep stuff or bob when standing up (on)

I’d question why you’re using revs if you’re trying to run them with loads of compression damping and hard spring rates though. Sounds like you should be on rebas or sids.

Hi i’m not quite sure what you mean, the reasons for me choosing the revs are on my old bike cannondale chase I wound the rebas down a a few mm and made them hard. With this in mind I bought the dual air version as there set at 140mm so inside santa cruz (chamy) recommendation for fork travel they also have a 20mm maxle that appealed.

D’oh! thanks for clearing that up [:)] I have remote poplock, and so far only thought you can either open it to full or lock them out completely

With the basic Popoloc remote, that is indeed the case. However, if you can source a Poploc Adjust remote (blue dial on it, plus the lockout lever) then you can adjust the compression damping. I belive that the Adjust remote can’t be sourced seperately hoewver, and that you’ll need to spend £too much on the complete remote lockout kit (inc. fork internals…which you already have!). I do wish that this last bit is wrong: feel free/PLEASE correct me!

I’d question why you’re using revs if you’re trying to run them with loads of compression damping and hard spring rates though. Sounds like you should be on rebas or sids.

???
If you’ve got the spring rate roughly right, you only need a small amount of compression damping to dial out bob/dive

If you’ve got the spring rate roughly right, you only need a small amount of compression damping to dial out bob/dive

Retro are you saying if I have the air pressure in both + and – set up to the manual I will only need a little comp damping to get rid of the bob?

Retro are you saying if I have the air pressure in both + and – set up to the manual I will only need a little comp damping to get rid of the bob?

Well kindof, I wouldn’t use the manual as I found the figures too high.

My method is to empty both chambers. Keep adding positive air until you get roughly the right amount of sag. Add the same pressure to the negative chamber. Spend some time riding them. 🙂 If you bottom out regularly, add more pressure to both chambers. If you don’t use much travel, remove some from both.

Once you’ve got them feeling roughly right, you can then use a little compression damping to stop them bobbing too much or generally mushing about through corners.

Hello, you have to make sure that you don’t put more pressure in the negative than the positive. you can lose travel otherwise. cross country riders like around 15 % sag and down hill freeride like closer to 25%, if you want to have fast rebound, you probably will want about 20% as not to get a rapid top out after bumps…

This sag business whats the point? Is this sag likely to bounce during standing up pedaling?