Hi Guys,

I’m a long time loiterer first time poster as I’ve always managed to find an answer to my problem in the forums until yesterday.

I’m off the bike at the moment with a shoulder injury so decided to do a lower leg service on my pikes, something I’ve done on many forks over the years without a problem.

Whilst removing the lowers the fastener nut on the damper side was just spinning i.e. the damper rod was spinning with the bolt and not unthreading.
Tried everything from compressing the fork to pulling up on the fork with no joy.

I ended up using a dremel to cut the flange off the nut and then sand around the nut so the whole lot would fit through the hole in the lowers while still leaving the hex on top. Once the lowers were off I was then able to clamp onto the damper rod and unthread the bolt although it was very stiff to unthread especially the last few turns suggesting the threads have somehow become crossed.

The threads on what remains of the bolt are fine as it threads into the air side rod no problem so therefore the threads on the damper rod need chasing with a tap.

I have a new fastener kit ordered and plan to chase the threads with an M8x1.0 (if anybody knows any different please let me know.

My questions to you guys are;
is my planned repair likely to work or should I bite the bullet on a new damper rod (approx. £85)?
What would cause the original problem to occur?
Where does the resistance on the damper rod come from to allow you to torque the bolt up in the first place?

Sorry for the long winded thread, Hyena.

Wow. Just, wow.

^.Exactly.
Why,how,what went on there op…

New Pike? Rock Shox use thread lock on the bolts and this will stop them coming out sometimes.

Too much threadlock and/or slightly looser fit of the damper rod in the lowers.

Did you use a shaft grip when holding the damper shaft, as if there is any damage to the shaft, it could cause seal failures depending on the location.

When I did my pikes, I read at mtbr I think that if there is threadlock on the bolt then it is very hard to get the bolt undone. Seem to recall it says don’t use threadlock in the RS service instructions too but could be making that up. I read all this after I had used threadlock on the bolt so not looking forward to next service…

Sir HC, the outside of the shaft is ok with no marks, I covered it with some electrical tape first so I wouldn’t scratch it. The only thing wrong with it is the threads at the end are really stiff to thread a bolt on hence needing to chase the threads.

Had the forks since Feb/March and I’ve had the lowers off a few times before with no problems, once when I first got them to make sure they had some in (I’ve had some fox in the past bone dry before now)and a couple of time since for a lower leg service.

I’ve never used threadlock on them but from memory they had some white stuff on them already which I assume is some kind of threadlock.

Just thinking maybe Im missing something from the bottom of the lowers which as allowed it to spin inside.

I had this problem when I tried to remove the lowers a while back, this was the first time after TF tuned had done a service on them in the summer. To get the bolt out I put the damper in lock out mode and maximum rebound damping then used an electrical impact wrench to remove bolt, I had to ‘force’ it an angle to try and grip the threads in the shaft which it then removed. The thread was slighty rough in the damper the rod and I chased with an M8 tap, don’t think it was M8x1.0 fine pitch though, more like standard 1.25. I did screw the bolt into a normal hex nut to check!

If you havent used threadlock, I’d guess the threads on the bolt and on the damper shaft have worn and have subsequently gripped together, new bolt and chase the threads. I service my Boxxers quite often and do replace the bolts every few times they are apart.

nicksee, I’m only measuring 1mm between threads with callipers but I’m going to double check with a pitch gauge hopefully tomorrow. Have you had any further problem since with your forks? just worried its going to happen again.

Worth checking thread pitch I think! I’ve not yet tried to remove bolt, but when I assembled the thread was smooth and clean and I didn’t over tighten so hopefully ok. I used the same bolt btw not a replacement.

you were right nicksee it is 1.25 thread checked today with a pitch gauge, glad I didn’t just go off my measurements.

Just out of interest what do people put on the threads if not Loctite, bit of grease to stop thing seizing?