Hi there,
I have a 26″ Rock Shox Sid with DNA motion control. The blue cap on top locks out in an anticlockwise direction. The Cable however pulls in a clockwise direction. For the fork to be open I need to have the bar lever on lockout. I can’t understand how to make this work as it works on another Rock Shox fork I have. Does anyone have any advice or know how this works.

Rockshox changed the way their lockout works around 2014(?): before 2014, the cartridge was normally open, afterwards it was normally locked.

In the end, it’s just a cable that rotates a pulley; do the markings on the remote really matter, as long as it functions correctly?

Cheers for that. It all seems confusing, you would expect the markings to indicate what is actually happening. Do you know how to make it return on its spring? I.e. when it releases it should rotate freely, money doesn’t.

Have you retrofitted it? Sounds like you’ve fitted a poploc remote to a pushloc fork.

I’m not sure. I bought them second hand. I’m finding the remotes proper annoying compared to t twiddly knob on the top of my Fox forks. But cheers for the responses.

I’m just thinking it is cable operated so don’t see how it can be pushed unless I’m missing something.

Is it possible that the cable stop collar was (incorrectly) fitted upside down on the fork?

l.e. on second thought, the cable should pull clockwise, so yours sounds ok. Probably just the “wrong” remote, as in this post. As I said, if it works as expected (locks/unlocks the fork), I wouldn’t bother with it.

If it’s got a crown mounted lockout there’s no spring at all. You can’t just bolt on a remote lever, you need a spring in the MoCo stack to facilitate the sprung return of the damper to either unlocked or locked depending on the age of the cartridge. The cable does the opposite.

You’re quite right you’ll never get the lever to push the cable, but I think people above are assuming you’re trying to fit the ‘wrong’ lever (which I’m not sure exists aside from the padlock symbol being wrong, the lever is ‘dumb’, it’s the damper functionality which varies).

Trying to retrofit the remote can be done, but is a but of a bitch IIRC, a whole new damper and sell the old crown-mounted one may be easier. Or just bend down and twiddle your existing lever.

The RL motion control dampers are notorious for siezing up and not returning on the spring.
all is not lost though as you can remove the damper from the fork crown, use a small flat bladed screwdriver to pop the top of the spring inside the damper away from the inner rod (it’s hooked on a litle bar). then get one of these:
https://www.bike24.com/p2130997.html
a manual lockout for the RL damper. fit that instead of the remote setup you have

it’ll likely be fairly stiff to move, but at least you should have lockout.

if lockout isn’t working you’ll need to check your damper fluid level. normally somewhere around 106-110ml from memory.

Hi there,
Many thanks to everyone for getting back to me. As it is I can lock out the fork with the remote. When I release it it obviously doesn’t return with the spring tension I need to do it manually. No big deal on the overall scheme of thing. I will take a look at the above suggestions and have a think.
Cheers
Mark

Assuming you’ve not swapped anything that means something isn’t working. That needs fixing.

I had the damper out of the fork and there is a long spring coiled around the central shaft. The objects on the top of my fork look like the ones in this picture:

https://www.cykelgear.dk/reservedele/forgafler/tilbehor-til-forgafler/rock-shox-reba-sid-motioncontrol-remote

The bar mounted lever is like this one:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/152133191981-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

There aren’t many ways to put it on so I doubt I have installed it incorrectly.

I will take a look at the weekend at the spring inside to see what I will do. I would much rather a knob on the top of my fork than a bar mounted lever.

That’s probably the best solution to be honest. You can take the damper apart and sand it so it’s free, but I’ve never managed this on any stiff damper lockout.

best bet, get a MoCo DNA lockout lever for the RL (with countersunk screw), unhook the internal spring and go manual lockout.