Just taken delivery of my new road bike, and want to run it tubeless if possible.

If it was an MTB I’d just slap some big monkey tape in and crack on, but Internet seems to think road bikes are a different kettle of fish?
I’m a light rider at about 62kg, rims are Aksium Disc, tyres are 28c GP4000 2s on my other bike I run about 75psi tubed on 25s with no issues.
Basically, will the combo I’ve got work tubeless?
TIA

Most people think that you “must” use proper tubeless tyres as pressures (and probably cornering forces) are higher on the road

I tend to put an extra round of that fibre-reinforced tape to stop the higher pressures foring the sealing tape down the spoke holes (but some mavic rims have (or had) solid rim beds anyway, I think)

Crack on

Definitely trickier to get the tyres into the rims.

(should stress that I am one of the folk who would only use “proper” tubeless tyres – my “crack on” was in that context)

I’ve used the Schwalbe One tubeless tyres (25mm on one bike, 30mm on another) and it’s very easy.

Just used duck tape on the rim.

Cheers all, the pressures are my worries I guess. Wondering if I’d be best to sell off the tyres before they’re actually ridden and get something advertised as tubeless ready then.

I tried installing standard road clinchers and running tubeless as an experiment a few years ago. They aired up fine, but blew off the rim at 40psi. I wouldn’t bother – the bead on the standard clinchers isn’t stiff enough for higher pressures.

I guess there’s a reason why it took so long for road tubeless tyres to make it out on the market – manufacturers developing the carbon fibre bead.

I’ve ran ghetto tubeless on my mountain bike for years but I made sure I bought tubeless rims and tyres and even the stans tape too as round my way I can hit 50mph on the descents and the thought of the tyre popping off the rim terrifies me.

I run Hutchinson 25mm Fusion 5 tubeless tyres on stans Alpha rims which I think are great.

Remember you don’t need to pump up the tyres as hard with tubeless tyres as their side walls are thicker, I like 90 psi on the back and 85 psi on the front.

Due to the higher pressures you need to layers of rim tape as the tape gets pushed into the spoke holes and can leak. Also some wheel manufacturers recommend Orange sealant as it works better at higher pressure.

I did use Joe’s sealant but that only seemed to work after a lot of air came out. The orange so far hasn’t failed but that could mean I haven’t had a puncture.

Like most other people schwalbe one tubeless tyres.

I’ve run them for over a year. Front has been faultless. Rear punctured and wouldn’t seal again. Ran a tube in it all winter. Replaced it in spring and it’s been fine since (with orange sealant)

They set up easy. Roll fast and if you buy in the sale cheaper than gp4000 or 4 seasons

Forgot to add that I installed the tyres by hand with no tools and inflated with a standard track pump. You get a very satisfying pop when they’re seated properly.

It does very much depend on the tyre and rim combo IME. I too fitted Schwalbe Ones onto my Pacenti SL23 rims without the use of levers, however try doing the same with some other tyres and you may be disappointed. I snapped a tyre lever with some IRC RBCC’s, and Hutchinson Intensives were a struggle too onto those same Pacenti rims.

There’s a video (GCN I think) of the new Mavic tubeless wheels/rims where they talk about how some tyre manufacturers err on the side of caution on the small side and some rim manufacturers go the other way. If you get the extremes of the two you may well struggle, which is maybe what I found.

YMMV may vary obviously! Nowt to do with technique either, once the IRC’s were “on” to the rim awaiting seating (that’s another story again!) you couldn’t budge them for love nor money. They are just a very tight combo, simple as that! 😉