Yes Jamie, it’s another thread 😕 but a little different this time.

If you were going to have road hydro brakes, would you go sram or shimano? Sram are already on mkII and in therory have seal kits but the shimano unit is a bit slimmer and arguably a smoother shift.

I’ve had both Mk1 and Mk2 SRAM units on my CX’er and have to say it’s only a slight difference in the Hoods that actually make any impact. The Mk1’s are slimmer but the Mk2’s are only a tiny bit larger but that helps no end whilst hacking on the Hoods. No difference in modulation nor stopping power at all.. So if it was my money it’d be the Mk2 SRAM units as mine are working perfectly.

Never tried the Shimano units but did spot a Focus CX’er with them on and they looked pretty neat setup.

Not helping a lot am I 😆

I would be basing it on the shifting action you prefer. I don’t like Shimano as much. If I could get Campag I would.

Yes Jamie, it’s another thread

Wot I do?

Anyway, I would go Shimano….well I did.

Better lever, nice and chunky and no real major diff between the 2014 105 5800 lever it replaced, and I have confidence that Shimano took their time in getting things right the first time around. So they wouldn’t need to be in SRAM’s position and need a MK2 so quickly.

….free stroke adjustment still does bobbins, tho.

Not had too much experience shifting sram road. Is there much to object ct to?

Just ordered some Shimano from my LBS, Madison have no stock until late January.

My exceedingly limited experience of both (few laps round a big carpark) lead me to feel that the SRAM brakes feel sharper, whilst the Shimano seem to have more modulation. In other words, seemingly the opposite of their MTB brakes. I also much prefer the SRAM road shifter action to Shimano (whilst I really don’t like SRAM MTB shifters!), which makes it a conundrum if/when the chance to go full hydraulic happens…

Currently running TRP Hy-Rd’s on my winter bike, and to be honest, so impressed at how good they are, I’m in no rush to go full hydro anyway.

I have been in Cycles uk Tonbridge shop to be told disc brakes on road bike are very dangerous if you crash as they could CUT your hand right off, even another member of staff was shaking his head at what I was being told and in another chain of bike shops I have been told the TRP HyRd are not to be used on a road bikes after saying I was looking at Trek bikes and only can be used for CX bikes due to heat build up. Trek seem to be using the TRP hyrd brakes on there bikes. I love riding my Giant Revolt with BB 7 brakes which work well.

Avid brakes are utter shite IME, need lots ob bleeding and spares.

Shimano just work.

I’d save the £ and stick with cables though, new 105s are excellent.

disc brakes on road bike are very dangerous if you crash as they could CUT your hand right off,

Is there any evidence of MTB discs doing this? They’ve been in mass usage for 15+ years now so if there was a risk, I’m sure there’d be plenty of empirical evidence.

Did they suggest why discs on a road bike could be any more of a risk than MTB? You fall off MTB more often than road so I would have thought any risk of contact would be lower on road…

There’s no evidence.

Some roadies get *really* angry when you mention discs, its seen much like 650b for MBT’s – a con to sell more stuff. Arguable its not necessary for the sort of racing most people do as well (crit racing, or short road races, not much descending).

You do tend to get bunch sprints a lot more in road racing, i guess if a finger went in a disc it could get sliced off.

The overheating story is probably from this… which was due to extremely lightweight rotors meant for CX (not original spec)

Road Bike Disc Brakes Are Coming, But Will They Work?

I’d save the £ and stick with cables though, new 105s are excellent.

That is good advice.

Shifting is exactly the same, but the braking is effortless. Not that the Spyres were hard work, but you kind of knew you were yanking a cable down a tube 8)

As an aside, my TCX came with 160mm rotors, starting to wonder if this is the exception, rather than the rule.

I think from the way he spoke the bloke was a rubber brake block man and I got far more sense and advice in the Cycles UK in Orpington where as I have gone to a road bike from MTB bikes with far bigger discs than what are going on road bikes. I am not good down hill on a road bike (Defy 1 2012 composite) have been looking at the Defy Advanced 1 £1650 Trp Spyre Mech or the Advanced Pro 1 which is £2600 Shimano Hy + other upgrades. Shop said go mad but I keep think for what I do ie club runs and sportives do I really need to to the Pro. On the Revolt I have never felt like i will not stop in any weather
If some one had lost a hand due to a disc brake it would be all over the papers.

….it would be all over the papers.

….and the floor. Be a right mess.

Mboy, very interesting comment about power and modulation. Like you say, other way around from their mtb brakes.

Currently running TRP Hy-Rd’s

Me too, but I’m getting a bit fed up with the way the lever goes all the way back to the bars before the pads are even half worn down, and no you can’t adjust the cable to fix it, read the manual. 👿

Mboy, very interesting comment about power and modulation. Like you say, other way around from their mtb brakes.

VERY short test though I will reiterate. Didn’t get more than maybe half a mile on each bike. Initial impressions of both brakes were very good though, but the SRAM definitely felt sharper than the Shimano like it had the better modulation.

Me too, but I’m getting a bit fed up with the way the lever goes all the way back to the bars before the pads are even half worn down, and no you can’t adjust the cable to fix it, read the manual.

I’m glad it wasn’t just me who had this issue. I thought I had messed something up but from investigation the callipers don’t appear to compensate for pad wear at all. And yes, I have read the manual about the correct position of the actuator arm and keeping the system open.

I’m liking my Force Hydro’s. Plenty of power and modulation. So far so good.

Chunky, how do you find the double tap shifting?

Trp spyre cable?

Don’t listen to Mboy ATM. He’s not making any sense on account of the flu…

I’m glad it wasn’t just me who had this issue. I thought I had messed something up but from investigation the callipers don’t appear to compensate for pad wear at all. And yes, I have read the manual about the correct position of the actuator arm and keeping the system open.

I think I read somewhere that on the early models the fluid reservoir was too small to compensate for pad wear. I’ve found that I can get more life from the pads by topping up the reservoir again when the pads are worn down but it’s just a PITA.

I am riding this (have had it a few weeks) and the brakes are absolutely amazing on 2 points:

1. they stop consistently in all weathers
2. you don’t wear out your rims as you ride (which makes carbon rims a worthwhile investment)

I found the stock front rotor (140mm) had great modulation but perhaps lacked sheer stopping power, which is at odds with my experience of Shimano’s MTB hydro discs, so since the photo was taken I put in a +20mm adapter and Shimano XT 160mm rotor.

Big improvement, especially for commuting in heavy traffic, where sometimes you need immediate stopping power!

Can’t complain about the 11 speed Ultegra shifting, its slick and accurate, especially the front derailleur upshift. Ergonomically, the Shimano hydro STI (mechanical) has a great shape, although the hoods are long so the stem length was reduced by 10mm to compensate

although the hoods are long so the stem length was reduced by 10mm to compensate

I compared the RS685s and the 5800 105, in my hand, before fitting, and couldn’t see a lot in it, but after a couple of rides I do feel a fraction more stretched out, so guess there must be a diff.

Can’t be asked to change my stem, tho….yet 😳

Onzadog – Member
Chunky, how do you find the double tap shifting?
POSTED 16 HOURS AGO # REPORT-POST

Have no issues with it. Have Ultegra on my other bike and switching between the two are fine.

The shifting is crisp. I have the full CX1 set up.

😯 Did nobody notice there’s a canoe stuck in that tree in the background.

” Did nobody notice there’s a canoe stuck in that tree in the background”

too busy trying to work out if someone had stolen the garden fence or it had fallen over

(long) thread here in Aus’ suggests that may find the Shimano product has a bit too much movement in the levers – I’m looking at building up a new CX stylee/Gravel adventure/drop bar hybrid and speaking to people have less and less concern on switching to SRAM double shift than having brake levers that hit the bars – (Edit) i have small hands and on some brakes have used the plugs/slip ins so I can easily reach)

http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80374&p=1197723

fails to do fancy click thru key phrase

“I’ve adjusted the fully extended position a bit closer to the handle bars to better suit my hand / finger size. But when I fully apply the brakes the lever (and more specifically the button) gets too close to the handle bars.” [/long coffee break]

Are the 785 levers not different to the 685s?

I have got my 685s set up closer to the bars, 4 clicks on the reach adjustment, and don’t have any bottoming out. Also, have quite thick tape as it’s Cinelli gel stuff.

Hanging loose:

Pulled tight as:

I imagine a re-bleed with the pistons out a little bit further to get some more fluid into the system would remove even more throw, but it’s fine as it is for me.

My rear does have more travel than the front. But there is no air in the system & it isn’t a problem at all. Tonnes of stopping power.

Oddly, I have noticed this as well.

I’m sure I read somewhere that the shimano road hose was softer than the mtb stuff to give more “feel”. Perhaps that explains the longer throw.