Four months on and the Juin techs are still going fine on my cx bike and also on the wifes, these bikes have been used way more than the road bikes and the degree of disc brake faffage and aggravation has dropped to almost nil
What do you reckon, is worth it to upgrade a new bike with the Shimano Hydraulics from new, to be able to sell the 11 spd 105 shifters and Promax callipers as new so getting some money back, or to spend the money on upgrading the wheels instead?
Difficult one, using the brakes riding on the hoods gives a different level of power to using brakes riding on flats as on slx and even riding in the drops varies the power you can apply.
I would say they’re as outright powerful but I’ve never had a problem stopping the bike and can lock the wheels when required.
I have Shimano RS785 hydraulic calipers on my Defy and they are excellent. The power is sensible and very easily applied. Suddenly discs on road bikes make complete sense and don’t seem out of place at all.
TRP HyRD’d here – similar was running BB7 which were OK but a bit of pain with the regular adjustment needed – looked at going full hydro but add in replacing two wheel sets as well to go 11speed hard to justify (disk wheels don’t wear out 😥 or is :lol:)
wasn’t sure if just swopping for sake of swopping go to TRP HyRd’s but no are excellent much more modulation than BB7’s – can’t speak for alternatives but well pleased with result
The Shimano hydraulic are 11 speed only. Currently running 10 speed.
I’m running a couple of bikes that use a mix of Shimano 10spd and 11spd with no issues. The only rule I stick to is using 11 speed chains, but even then I use 10spd speed links as the 11 spd versions I’ve found seem to be the non-reusable types.
The commuter has RS685 brake set which I got for a reasonable price from Bike24. I think the current Euro to GBP exchange rate makes buying from Europe possibly advantageous, at the moment.
If OP is stuck with their original shifters then one of those cable to hydraulic converters appear to be an option. Not very sightly, but as the ones I’ve seen hang under the stem, the unit isn’t exactly “in yer face”.
HyRd work well but the stock pads lasted about 5 minutes and my callipers didn’t adjust for pad wear. So the long lever pull got longer as pads wore to the point of pulling to the bars. New Shimano pads helped a lot. I’ve gone Shimano hydraulic now as the callipers look so much neater.
Re the Hy-Rd lever travel issue mentioned above, a good tip I found online is to turn the cable clamp upside down and clamp the cable on the inside of the bolt. This fixed the lever travel issue for me (the brakes worked OK before, but I found that I had to pull the levers all the way to the bar to get them to bite).
I moved to Hy-Rds after running road BB7s for about 10 years. I’ve found them to be a big improvement. The self adjustment makes them a lot less hassle than having to fiddle with the adjusters on the BB7s regularly, and they seem to be standing up to commuting better than BB7s, which I found corroded badly. The Hy-Rds also have a very low profile, so I was able to fit guards and a rack without adding spacers and customising the stays.
HoratioHufnagel – Member
replacing two wheel sets as well to go 11speed hard to justify
You can just remove a cog from the 11 speed cassette and put it on a 10 speed wheel http://darkspeedworks.com/blog.htm
I originally had BB7 which came with bb7 which were bad with the continual rub on one side, luckily they broke and were replaced under warranty with some TRP spyre brakes by specialized. The Spyre were much better – no more rubbing but did not feel that powerful compared to mtb hydo brakes, have just switched oveer to the Juin Tech R1 cable / hydro brakes and they are fantastic !! Really strong modulated braking now much better than the old cable spyre brakes – same feeling in braking i get from my mtb full hydro brakes
Posted 8 years ago
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