I’m utterly clueless as I’ve never had a road bike before.

It’s a B Twin Triban 3, the early red one and I’ve done quiet a few miles on it but the brakes are not stopping as well now.

I put new Clarks blocks in last week and adjusted them up fine but I’m not happy with the stopping. I’ve noticed loads of grey ” gunge ” on the rim so I’ve cleaned it off when I got back so will try it again tomorrow but, in the meantime, is it normal to get build up off ” gunge ” and should I be cleaning it off as soon as I get back from a ride ?

Any other suggestions to improve it or am I just going to have to be carefull when stopping ?

It’s ages since I’ve used rim brakes and I’m used to just stopping on the MTB with its discs.

Better cables and pads. the latter is the stock recommendation, but the former made a far bigger difference on my Allez.

If they worked ok new and all you’ve changed is pads it’s the pads that are rubbish .. Yes grey gunge is just pad wear/mixed with spray/water/grit from road.. I wash my bike after a wet winter ride(if grit down) ..

Try different pads

What njee20 said

Swisstop Greens and new cables will make a world of difference.

Cables outers, more than inners – stiffer.

A little more spendy but the new shimano calipers from the 11 speed groups set are a huge step forward.
But proper cables are always a good upgrade

Clean the pads AND rim braking tracks after each wet ride. Pads can be flossed in situ with a rag etc, no need to remove the wheels, just flip up the brake QRs for a bit of clearance.

If it’s the Clarks triple compound red/black/grey pads they are good pads.

I’m a huge fan of stopping and have found Swisstop pads are really good and they last.

They’re expensive but they are good.

On a recommendation I have been trying the kool stop salmon pads designed for wet weather….so far very impressed…

Thanks for the replies.

Looks like new pad inserts and cables are the way forward. I’m going to go for the swissstop green.

What cables are suitable ? I’ve some Jagwire outer already so if that’s OK I could just get some new inner ?

Cheers

Might be worth checking for rust on the caliper pivots too. you have to dismantle the brake for that.

Can be an eye opener going onto a road bike with rim brakes. I guess in the long term, is to the reasoning behind the new bikes now with discs. I don’t find that road bike brakes give me any confidence with slowing down. Tried lots of pads including greens and blacks from Swisstop. Ultegra brakes , although the new versions have a cam pivot, which is supposed to give even more power. Its wise to change the pads and try that, but Btwin calipers aren’t that fantastic either, so maybe sensible to buy some decent calipers. You can change them back if you sell the bike etc. In another thought, you can only slow as much as the tyre grips, so having massive stoppers is not the answer when your contact patch is so small.
I just have to make myself more aware of the dangers of people pulling out on you and every second counting to stop in time etc

Make sure your next roadie has disc brakes. Meanwhile clean off that grey paste, which is a mixture of rubber and rim alloy, then pick out the bits of grit trapped in the blocks. Clarke’s pads are hard rubber and don’t grab very well; Swisstop green are softer and work better. Clean the wheel rims with hot soapy water then again with a dry cloth to remove all the grey film.

This is the reason why discs are the next big thing on road bikes. The road riding scene has already benefited from compact gearing, compact handlebars, carbon frames and STI shifting and disc brakes will also contribute.

What cables are suitable ? I’ve some Jagwire outer already so if that’s OK I could just get some new inner ?
Cheers

Like I say, it’s the others that make the difference – cheap stuff compresses and feels vague. I use Shimano SLR, and nothing else. I’ve a feeling Spesh use Jagwire as OEM on their bikes and my brakes were woeful (I replaced the Tiagras with 105s when they seized and they were still shit), fitting new cables instantly make them feel pretty close to the Dura Ace ones on the summer bike.

Good cables ^^^^ that don’t compress. Good pads.

Proper distance from rim. Hitting the rim correctly. Cables tensioned correctly? (is the exposed cable floppy when the bikes just standing) Caliper torqued correctly and not over tightened and therefore crushing the mechanism.

Half decent brakes with decent pads and cables are superb. If they can slow me from 52mph for the hairpins in the pouring rain down the Portilon then they’re good enough for anything.

However there are some pants brakes about, and ‘look how cheap these are’ spares.

Might get some new calipers then.

Probably another daft question but will any fit and be OK with the levers or do levers have different pull ratios ?

Thanks again for all the replies.

Make sure you cut your cable outers straight.

Conversely I’ve never had a problem with road caliber brakes, possible I’m a better rider than those advocating discs.

Nor me. Properly set up Shimano Callipers are fine. As mentioned above, cable choice and preparation have a big impact. Pads too.

Shimano 105 callipers would be an upgrade, but a bit much for a Triban.