We did a week in Luchon with A Quick Release, some really fantastic riding… We didn’t use the lift at all during the main week (I used it on the rest day) but I think that was AQR’s preference rather than a comment on the trails there- what I rode from the lift was great (including some of the same trails we rode self-powered).
Not sure how easy it’d be to navigate without a guide, though. It’s a really nice wee town though, I think being in the town at the bottom rather than in the resort makes a big difference to feel, especially compared with a big alps resort.