It's a bike, pedals go round etc etc etc.
If you're taking an MTB saddle you might want to set it up slightly nose down, or at least take a tool with you to adjust it after the first 20 miles. There's a reason a lot of roadies have big holes down the middle of their saddles.
The biggest differences I find are that you have to pedal to move, there's no pumping or anything like that, so you pedal at a nice constant pace. And the gears work, none of that MTB shift up 2, down one to change, click the lever and the chain jumps across.
Twitchy? Nope, try a BMX, that's 'twitchy', if a road bike's twitchy you're not pedaling hard enough.
Most of you seem to have crap calipers and or pads on your road bikes as my brakes are ace, loads of power!
That or your mechanically challenged an cannot set them up!
+1, I swapped my brakes for Planet-X forged calipers to shed soem weight, not in the same power leagues as Shimano groupset stoppers, but still more than adequate. Road brakes are plenty powerfull.
110k isn't much, most clubs do similar distances on Sundays by the time you've ridden to the meeting point. Stop for cake and a coffee half way round and it'll fly by.
The only tips I'd give you is don't half wheel the guy in front, drafting is fine (and makes the distance easy), but if ever your front wheel overlaps his rear you can gaurentee he'll pull out round a pothole and you'll be using your face as a brake. That and don't brake, it's bad for the guy behind you and the tyres have way more grip than you could ever imagine (unless they hit diesel or a manhole cover, or paint).