First time removing these to replace the HTII BB, the pre-load cap is tight on, will it loosen enough to unscrew it when I undo the two hex nuts.

Cheers all.

yes

Should do

maybe

no

possibly, but probably not. The preload cap threads onto the b/b spindle rather than the crank arms. it’s possible that the slight release in tension in the crank arms will unseize the end cap… but it’s a face contact rather than thread contact with the cranks. If it’s seized on the threads, it might not come off. If it’s seized on the end face, then it might. try it?!

do you have a proper tool for undoing the end cap?

retro83 and cp – please try harder to co-ordinate your posts, the progression’s been ruined !

ace, if it cracks on undoing (only plastic aren’t they ?) then just borrow one from somebody to preload your BB again – I don’t think it’s any more necessary than a headset cap for riding around once you’ve tightened the 2 crank bolts*

mind, I think they’re pretty cheap to replace

*if it is, I’ll surely die in a crank-related bloodbath sometime soon as I’ve lost mine on one bike

cp, yes I have a park BB tool, but the nut for removing the cap just spins round on the end, I’m guessing that’s so you only apply pre load using finger pressure only, makes it a bit difficult when you want to get it off.

I’ll have another go later, cheers folks.

I have the same Park Tool and mine is the same, but once you loosen the two allan key bolts holding the crank arm, then the preload screw will unscrew easily (that’s unless you,ve now managed to really knacker your park tool). I presume the reason for the Park tool being as it is, is you don’t need much torque and I guess it prevents people over tightening the preloader (although I’ve managed to break a preloader). It’s just for seating the cranks together on the BB, so SP is right, I’ve done the same for a few months (not had a preloader on), eventual replacement cost was £2.95 I think.

Sorted…once the two bolts were loose the pre-load cap came off no problem.