Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
  • Removing big chainring for bash guard
  • gixer-chris
    Free Member

    Im thinking of removing the big chainring and replacing it with a bashguard. I'm also going to be removing the middle chainring (32T) because somehow I've bent it. My mate thinks replacing the 32T middle ring with 36T would be a good idea, so I can still reach a good top speed.

    I was worried that there would then be a big gulf between the middle and granny ring? Or would there not be too much difference?

    Cheers,

    Chris

    clubber
    Free Member

    I found 24/36 perfectly useable and never span it out except on the road.

    Why bother with a bash though unless you really need it?

    traildog
    Free Member

    I am currently running 22/32 and find it too low, so going 36 is a good idea. An inner ring doesn't cost much so you can easily change that if you find the gap too large.

    The reason for a bash is that it saves getting oil on your calfs. Mind you, I regularly bend my bash guard. Having said that, I'm going back to a 44 for this next year. See how long it'll last!

    Xylene
    Free Member

    The reason for a bash is that it saves getting oil on your calfs. Mind you, I regularly bend my bash guard. Having said that, I'm going back to a 44 for this next year. See how long it'll last!

    After watching my mate gouge his ankle open on the outer chain ring in a lovely zigzag slice, a bashguard is quite appealing

    CaptainMainwaring
    Free Member

    I'm running 22/36 on my SLX no problem

    gixer-chris
    Free Member

    Cool cheers guys. As I get better Im finding more of a need for a bash guard!

    ooOOoo
    Free Member

    Having said that, I'm going back to a 44 for this next year. See how long it'll last!

    22/32/44/Bash here 🙂

    Andy-W
    Free Member

    Best thing I did on my bike was take off the big chainring.

    scruff
    Free Member

    36t is quite a big gear if you have steepish hills, I use a 34t and keep the granny for emergencies only. Only ever spin out on long tarmac downs to the pub.

    FuzzyWuzzy
    Full Member

    I have 22/36 on one bike using the complete SLX setup and 22/36 on another using XT cranks + inner ring + LX steel 'middle' + FSA bash. Both work fine.

    Simon
    Full Member

    I've got 22/36 on one bike and 24/36 on another.

    Prefer 24/36 as there's less of a gap between them, works best with an 11-34 cassette IMO.

    Craggyjim
    Free Member

    I think the biggest advantage to a bash set-up is that you can increase the chain tension in the gears needed for rocky downhills. I have 22-36-bash on my bike and don't miss the big ring.

    tonyd
    Full Member

    I have 24/34/bash and 170mm crank arms and like it. I've never really used the big ring for anything other than bouncing off of rocks as I don't really ride on the road.

    Contemplated 36 on the middle ring but it would have been too tight on the mech – something to watch out for, mine is an Orange Five. In hindsight I'm glad I went 34 as it's fine for me.

    I might at some point go back to a 22 inner as it does make steep climbs a bit harder, especially with the shorter crank arms. Alternatively I could just MTFU and get my legs stronger.

    gixer-chris
    Free Member

    Well I've ordered a 36T ring, only £12.99 from CRC so no biggy if I dont like it. Whilst we're on anybody got a spare bashguard for a 36T ring? 😆

    buzz-lightyear
    Free Member

    You just have to watch that there is enough clearance between the 36t and your chain stay to avoid bad chain suckage. Put a 36t on in place of the 32t with a light, thin bash in place of the 44 then you can re-use your existing crank bolts. Adjust the outer stop on the front dérailleur so you don't overshoot the 36. Shorten the chain, you don't need it so long now.

    Why do riders fear using their 22t ring? When I approach a steep or long climb, I go straight to 22t and spin-up. The chainline is better for the lower gears and pedalling is smooth. And if you try to down shift to the 22t mid-climb, bad things can happen. Why do riders like pushing the 32t/36t?

    ooOOoo
    Free Member

    so they can come on here and boast?

    2×10, 3×9, 3×10 blah blah blah it's all nitpicking to me. Being able to pick any gear when stationary would be a far more interesting upgrade.

    Splash-man
    Free Member

    Nothing new to add here really.

    On my Dawg I've been running a 22/36/Bash up front with a 11/34 on the rear. Never had any issues with a good gear in that lot.
    The only time is has felt strange is when you are going up a familiar hill and you mentally think think you need a specific gear but because of the larger middle you need to change up one at the back fr example.

    Just do it, the extra clearance on the front ring is definately worth it 🙂

Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)

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