I need a new wireless room thermostat.

I could do with been able to programme at least 3 separate programmes in the day, plus be able to manually overide the programme for manual on/off.

The Electrician we are using installed a Salus RT500RF, which can be picked up for £35. The programming is limited to say the least !

What do you recommend?

Ta

Salus RT500RF 5 sets of time in a day. can run as 5/2 or 7 day.

http://www.salus-tech.com/products/thermostat/rf-thermostat/_c1_34_wireless-programmable-room-thermostat-868mhz/

Last one I got for £5 s/h off ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=salus+rt500+rf&rt=nc&LH_Auction=1

EDITED after you edited! Whats wrong with the Salus? I think mine’s fine. It does 5 times in a day and has a manual override.

work fine, DONT GET A HONEYWELL. Thieving shower of shits with their £120+ CM927 that dies a week out of a two year warranty.

Solid state electronics shouldnt die after 2 years in a benign environment…

Mmmm, not sure whether this is helpful but I recently knocked over a Honeywell wireless/portable thermostat. Despite it only falling from a low height onto carpet, it still broke.

Not only did the thermostat need replacing but also the accompanying thingy unit as they’re pre-programmed. Waiting on a three figure bill. 🙁

has a manual override.

It has manual overide until the next period comes in, so you cant say leave it on for 24hrs continuous, or for that matter switch it off…

I own four of the Salus, as above. Only problem I’ve ever had with one was when the toddler kid of one of my tenants messed with the DIP switches on the back causing us to scratch our heads for a long time as to why the boiler was not responding.

or for that matter switch it off…

switch off the receiver at the boiler end.

we’ve got one and while its cheap, its worked flawlessly since i had it installed 18 months ago.

for that matter switch it off…

press and hold the frost protection button for 3 seconds and it will drop to 5degrees until the mode is changed again. i.e. “OFF” for all intense porpoises.

OR press and hold up & down arrows to put it to sleep until you manually wake it up.

I agree it doesnt have a permanent override, but for that Id put a bypass switch down by the receiver unit if you really need to to stay on for long periods like 24hrs +

we’ve got one and while its cheap, its worked flawlessly since i had it installed 18 months ago

Ah but there is part of the issue. Whilst going through the reuqirements with the electrician, I asked for one to be able to switch on and off manually etc.

The job price came to £150 to basically wire one of these units in. I had already suggested a unit fixed to the wall for £40 which was infinitely more programmable. With me supplying the fixed unit the job was priced at £90. He then said he could get a wireless option, and fit and the total price would be £150.

Our Boiler is currently controled by a Honeywell CM927 which has run faultlessly for 10 years + 🙂
Edit : Its to control this unit http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/positive-pressure-ventilation-loft-units-which specifically the heater element.

Therefore I was happy for him to wire it in, and pay him £90 to fix in the fused spur time switch. He then came up with the good idea of using a thermostat to control the heater element. But the salus is kind of a halfway house solution, and cost me more, but doesnt properly do the job!

Ah, more info. Good, good… 😉

If I needed a wireless thermostat for when “in program”, but a manual override off or on, I would have still used a salus, but wired it via a 2 gang light switch rigged to act as three position. But then I like bodging shit 😀

(Or just bought a three position rocker switch … )

Ah but the receiver is in the loft, and we didnt want holes and mess in the living area of the house.

And pulling the loft ladder down to manually overide it is, well stupid 😆

I think the electrician is taking the pee a but to be honest. Quoting me £90 with me supplying a fixed spur timer, and then £150 with him supplying the wireless timer which costs £35, and doesnt do what we discussed.

When we agreed specced etc he talked about Danfoss units, so I was expecting a half decent system. It is good to know though that people are not having issues with the cheap unit.

The time programmable room stats are a waste of money and incomprehenible to programme as well. Your house won’t coool down as fast as you think and you’ll find they won’t bring the heating in during the “low heat” times you’ve programed.

We have a Drayton MiStat which you can set up to four periods per day on. If you want to bump it up a bit you just press the + button and it jumps up in half degree increments but will only run that temperature until the next period takes over. It also has a boost function which you can dial a set temperature in and a time period up to 23hrs which sounds like what you’re after.

“The time programmable room stats are a waste of money and incomprehenible to programme as well. Your house won’t coool down as fast as you think and you’ll find they won’t bring the heating in during the “low heat” times you’ve programed.”

huh ? the salus is quite fine at its job – far better than sticking a stat in the hall way which would have my heating fired up every time the front doors opened….. unless of course you have stuck your room stat in direct sunlight so it has a false temperature…..

northernmatts unit sounds good for the OP

hmm, someone should have thought of this before the install! 😀

this has a permanent override
http://www.elro.eu/en/products/cat/climate-control/thermostats/connects-to-the-boiler/wireless-thermostat

why would you need a permanent On anyway?

That’s not my experience.

why would you need a permanent On anyway?

The Positive Pressure System has a heater attached that switches on when the loft space gets < 10 deg. people suggested putting a timer in the circuit so the heater only comes on when you need it to take the chill out of the landing ie mornings and bedtimes. ie 06:30 – 07:30 and 18:30 to 19:30 Hence the timer.

However there are times when it would be good to be overide ie at the weekend I might want to put it on for Saturday afternoon if Jnr FD is playing upstairs on the landing.

Its all about flexibility.

Stoner: I cant see where you can buy those Elro ones? In fact no contact info on their webpage, bit dodgy?

I would like a boiler control/thermostat that can be controlled by my smartphone, any good options?

wilburt – Member
I would like a boiler control/thermostat that can be controlled by my smartphone, any good options?

Salus it500

wilburt – Member

I would like a boiler control/thermostat that can be controlled by my smartphone, any good options?
Tado!

novice question.

I want to replace the remote thermostat for my baxi combi boiler. If i was to get one of these salus RT500RF, where it states it comes with a receiver. Can I fit it myself or should I employ an electrician?

(I currently have a clunky old white plastic remote where the timing is done via the selection of in/out sliders round a clock dial, would much rather have a digital display and timing.)

(I currently have a clunky old white plastic remote where the timing is done via the selection of in/out sliders round a clock dial, would much rather have a digital display and timing.)

/In case you die attempting this
Of course you should get a sparky/heating engineer in.
/Go on then

If they take the remote off the wall they will likely see three or four wires, maybe with an earth. There has to be a live and a neutral, providing power to the clock to turn it round. There also has to be a switched wire or pair of wires(live and neutral again), that you want to be connected when the timer is calling for heat. The Salus receiver just covers those functions, but has a few jumpers and dip switches to configure as well to set the RF channel and heating modes. The printed instructions are OK though if you take your time. And if you really can’t work it out, then put the old one back and call an expert in.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irrT8asotzo[/video]

Edit: do a better job of not showing uninsulated cabling than in the video, and stick it in some trunking if stuff will catch on it or there are kids around.