Can anyone remind me of the fix when the negative chamber gets out of syc ? Something to do with an air valve in bottom of one of the legs I think ?

Solo air have a self setting negative chamber (only 1 valve).

Thanks, yes I know that but if it gets out of sync, which mine have, there is a way of releasing the negative chamber and resetting. The guys at TF told me how as they did it when in for a service, but I can’t remember details…

How can you tell if it’s “out of sync” btw?

Scotroutes, the travel stiffens up and it feels like its topping out a bit. Basically too much air in negative. ThenTF guys said it happens a lot. There is a valve somewhere, I think under a cap or bolt at base of one of the legs, which releases it, can’t quite remember as never done it !

The valve is under the nut on the air side. Just watch for oil (cover with a rag) squirting out when you release the air.

Thanks Iain. I will look out for it.

If they are topping out then there is too much positive air and too little negative air.

Note, that’s the nut at the bottom of the legs.

GHill has it spot on.

Does anyone know if there’s a video out there on t’Interwebz showing you how to do this (bleed the neg chamber)? I’m 99.9% sure the problem with my Rebas is the same as the OP’s.

Thanks Grant !

If there’s a vaccum in the lower legs a cable tie pushed about an inch down each dust/oil seal seal with forks at full extension should release it.

Thanks for the cable tie idea. I saw that online the other week but thought letting air out valve less risk of damage…

Aye, wouldn’t make a habbit out of it.

On my solo air Revelations there’s a hidden valve inside the air side lower.

Aye, wouldn’t make a habbit out of it.

If you find you need to release the air from the negative chamber more than occasionally they’ll need looking at/service.

Releasing the negative pressure using the valve and releasing the pressure in the lowers using the cable tie are two different things, fixing two different issues (solo air dimple blocked with grease vs possible air leak on the negative side)

Will give it a go later, using valve, presumably I need to release positive air to zero first ?

Okay, so is the bolt hidden ? All I see up the air leg is a rounded thing, nowt to put a spanner or key onto ?

Edit – looked at SRAM PDF, apparently its a 5mm hex bolt 😆

On the old dual air the instructions were to never leave only the negative pressurized, I would think this still holds true.

Assuming you have too much pressure in the negative and the fork’s normal position is below the dimple (preventing pressure equalization), you could either pull on the wheel or release the pressure in the negative using the valve – without releasing the positive. After you release the negative the piston should get in the dimple area and the pressure will equalize anyway, assuming the dimple is not blocked with grease.

Sorted, let all the positive out, moved up and down a few times and could actually hear the negative air inside moving back to positive chamber. Pumped up again to normal pressure and went for a ride. I think there was a wee grease blockage which cleared when I depressurised the positive chamber.