I’m looking to get a replacement shock and have found a CTD at a good price. TF suggested a Push tune to get the best out of it so who’s had on done? What are your thoughts on the finished job?

I’m currently considering a push tune for £143 or a new shock. Haven’t made my mind up.

I’ve lined up a CTD kashima shock for £180 + £143 push tune/service should equal a near new shock, set up for me for a fair bit less than a new CTD shock..

My RP23 is much better since it’s been Pushed. They also did a little jiggery pokery as well to suit my weight, style and needs and I’m happy with the results.

Tom KP

Fellas, I was in the same boat with my RP23 Kashima. It was always blowing through its travel with no mid range support, so much so I was putting 200psi in it so it wouldn’t collapse. It was always really noisy too. So I got it pushed and am amazed by the result, well worth the money. I now have 160psi in it and it’s bang on the sweet spot, and quiet to boot……!

Discapade..That’s just what I needed to read..
I’ve been pumping my RP2 up to 230 PSI to stop it blowing through is travel, it also wallows in its mid stroke..

On the other hand I’d like to upgrade the RP2 to a CTD and then get it pushed, although I can’t warrant that expense at the moment.

Yes…..do it

It’s great if you know what you want from your shock mate, I even asked them for a slightly faster rebound and it’s bought the bike to life when jumping….I should have done it sooner (:0)

Just got my RP2 back from being Pushed with Kashima upgrade; initial impressions are that it’s 100% better than stock (typical midstroke wallow) although it’s going back for a re shim to add a bit of slow speed compression damping in the ‘open’ position.

I asked for loads of control and stability around the sag point which is exactly what I got in the ‘closed’ position, but I also wanted more control in the open position. Luckily the price includes having it re-shimmed if it’s not quite right. TF have been great and listened to everything I’ve said. I’d recommend it.

OK so what is “Pushed”. I’ve only ever heard vague descriptions

I thought it was just opening up the rebound on multiple hits or the middle of the stroke on rebound

But the claims here are compression related.

http://www.tftunedshox.com/info/push_fox_rear.aspx

I know it as a while ago, but I had my Van RC shock on my Big Hit Push tuned and it made a world of difference. It did totally transform the bike and made it work so much better. Money well spent i reckon.

Yes IMO.

RP23 HV boost valve on a Heckler. Set sag correctly and it just blew through travel for fun. Increase psi to compensate and small bump stuff was very harsh. Send to TF Tuned with whatever information that was asked and hey presto… Sorted. It was like night and day and money well spent in my case

I know it as a while ago, but I had my Van RC shock on my Big Hit Push tuned and it made a world of difference. It did totally transform the bike and made it work so much better. Money well spent i reckon.

I almost forgot – I have an older Van R that is Pushed – it’s remarkable – I bought it 2nd hand for next to nothing, it’s not been serviced in an age yet still feels super controlled – easily better than a new dhx I had and almost as good as the CCDB I had.

Going back to my RP2, the reason I had mine tuned is because 1stly it needed a service, 2ndly it has never performed very well, and finally I wanted another Vip’r (which I have on my other bike), but couldn’t afford one. The Push tune and full Kashima upgrade (body & shaft) cost less than half of a new Vip’r…!!! If it gets anywhere near the performance of the Bos then I’ll be extremely happy

All good to hear. Thanks for the replies..

All those that blew threw their travel too quickly, did you first try a shim inside the HV chamber? It takes 30mins of your time, is as easy as fixing a puncture and costs no money at all. Seriously, immediately sending your shock off to Push is a bit OTT and extremely expensive.
When I got my Heckler/RP23 after 1 ride I noticed it blowing through the travel. Checked on the web, found the shim mod and fitted it. Revelation. Its been like that ever since (3years). Since then, Fox have marketed their own shims.
http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/dw-5-spot-rp23-mod-503070.html

^ is that not doing the same job as a fox volume reducer?
Getting my AL RP23 pushed after Xmas. Had a rp2 done and it was massively better in every way from climbing to blasting round berms and jumps.

I think (based on limited understanding!) that you can get similar results with a PUSH tune and a custom tune from someone like Mojo – albeit the internals end up looking slightly different.

I’ve done both in the past and results have been great with both – much more support without losing too much sensitivity.

I reckon that to get the best out of either then you need to be able to describe to your tuner what you want from the shock. Took me two attempts to get the custom Fox tune right but got the PUSH one right-first-time.

I got a shim pack for my RP23. So much nicer now, easy to fit, cost less than £20.

I also wasted a pile on needle roller bearings instead of DU bushes, not sure how much better that made things but at £40 it probably wasn’t worth it.

All those that blew threw their travel too quickly, did you first try a shim inside the HV chamber?

+1 for trying this first if suffering from wallow/lack of support.

Worked a treat on my 2012 RP23 anyway.

I had my 5th Element upgraded at TF and they did a great job in improving the performance. I’d budgeted £400 for a new shock so I’ll be saving about £70 and will have a custom tuned shock

We can custom tune the ctd for you too cheaply, as mentioned above try a volume spacer first to see if you can get it working to your liking until service time to save a bit of cash too.

Can anyone who had the kashima upgrade on their RP2 post a pic of it please? I’d like to see how sexy it looks..

More importantly how much difference does it make?

Not directly related to the original questions but I have bottoming out problems with the DRCV shock on a 2011 Trek Remedy. Contacted Trek about it and one option they suggested was quote:

Alternatively you can let all the air from the shock, unscrew the DRCV air chamber and put a large dab of grease in there to reduce the air volume.

I haven’t tried this yet was wondering if anyone has?

I could machine volume spacers easily..
All I would need is some dimensions of the required spacer.. I’d say £5 each posted?

I’ve had a basic float tuned by Loco in the past and it was a great improvement over stock, so I wouldn’t discount that route. I’ve also tried the volume reduction route, and although it works great for some applications, it doesn’t for all. The wallow I experienced with this shock was different to some of the others I’ve had, hence the Push route.

And besides which, it looks lovely..! This:

Became this:

I’m happy, and that’s what matters.

Mildred – love the comments regarding the Pushed Van R. I have a Pushed Van R on an old Enduro and it always blows me away how well controlled it is.

Did the volume reduction to an RP23 – helped a bit, then pushed it and now run it pushed with a volume reducer for a good tune for me.