I just read somewhere that it’s a good idea to put oil in a steel frame to protect it (not totally fill it up obviously). I just got my Inbred frame so wondering if I should do this or not and if so what should I use? Cheers.

Simply don’t worry about it? My old Carrera is older than some of the posters on this forum and it’s spent half its life outside, still going strong.

What he said… I bought a can of frame prtection spray in stuff for my Rock Lobster and spent a few hrs applying and moving frame around etc, when I got it 5 yrs ago, When I buy another steel bike I won’t bother.

Waxoyl in a spray can from Halfords

Framesaver

that Framesaver was the one i used. bit of a faff and for a few months it seeped out of the drains holes/seat tube etc. The bike still smells of it 5 yrs later when the seatpost is out so suppose it is still providing a coating

slopped some veg oil in the 456 not sure if it worked but cheap and easy

I wouldn’t bother, but that’s me. I keep my bike indoors, seldom ride in the wet and take time to dry my bike properly when I do.

I did put a good load of grease on to the inner surfaces I could reach when I built the bike up, i.e. the head tube and seat tube. Oh, and I think I sprayed a bit of GT85 into the stays through the little holes. Not sure if that will help any but I suspect a regular squirt won’t hurt 🙂

Acf50. It’s used on motorbikes to protect engine parts from road nasties. It comes from aerospace industry, and spreads out to make a very thin film. One can lasts ages, but it’s great stuff. Way better than waxoyl etc as it spreads and doesn’t clump. Mind you £14 is a lot….

Also smells lovely

Anywhere free of air and moisture

A second shout out for Waxoyl. Just squirt it as far inside the tubes as you can. The paint protects the outside, keep an eye on that for chips, scratches and flaking on a regular basis and touch up any damage quickly to stop the rust from getting too extensive.

J.P Weigle Framesaver works well. I ride my bike throughtout the year in all weather so seems to make sence to protect a steel frame inside as well as out.

I used Dinitrol on most of my frames.

The one I didn’t ended up like this after blasting as rust had perforated from the inside;

I’ll do them all from now on

I used Waxoil on my Cove Handjob years ago. It applies really well and it feels like the spray is coating all of the inside.

I did the underside edges of my car at the same time and there was still loads left.

It is strong smelling stuff, I had a big dizzy spell afterwards which some people may see as an additional bonus.

wwaswas that’s mad, what frame is that?

The Inbred is made from really thick tubing, so don’t worry about it.

Drill a 5mm hole underneath the BB for drainage, and store it with the seatpost out. Clean and WD40 the seattube once in a while, and stuff a bit of grease up the four open gussets too!

oldgit – Gary Fisher Ferrous (now renamed FerrousOxide).

only the seat tube went – think it just got repeatedly wet inside and rusted through.

All the above are good products (veg oil aside) just get some thing in there from new and forget about it.

I use 20-30 litres of Waxoyl a year in my business, it protects my work well and has done over the last 20 years. I only prefer that brand because it is a clear golden liquid, where as the others are black-ish – just a preference. http://www.peterflynnclassiccars.com if you’re interested in looking!

Raleigh, Carlton etc used to phosphate dip their steel frames to treat the internals and externals of the frame before painting.
Its frames that are used on the road in winter that pick up plenty of salt and then rust from the inside out, usually the chainstays are the worst.

Good tip on the ACF-50.

LPS-3 is something I have used for protection – lovely stuff.

http://www.a-sp.org/database/custom/cprotection/CorrosionProtection.pdf