Hi

Has anyone tried one of these yet? I needs something for my carbon Stumpy. Originals last about 6 months, just tried the new Wheels MFG one which was rubbish and creaked from ride one, then the cups just move in the frame.

Anything else out there I’m missing?

I am about to get a road version, my LBS says they are the way to go if you don’t want creaks the minute it threatens to rain and you are out riding.

Thanks. That’s my hope too, the Wheels one creaked horribly and moved in the frame.

The instructions with the wheels one does say you may need to use a retaining compound with the cups.

I used the Rotor BB30 to 24mm adaptor on my carbon Cannondale F29 frame which is a very similar product to the Praxis Works bb, whereby one side of the sleeve screws into the other. The issue I had is that It kept coming loose and unwinding in the frame which caused It to creak immediately. The other problem you’ve got on a carbon frame is that you can’t torque it up to the suggested 40nm without the risk of damaging the frame, at least that’s what I decided and I didn’t want to risk it. I’ve not had any feedback from the manufacturers of these BB’s but I can’t see how you can safely install them on a carbon frame. I moved to the wheels MFG solution and so far it works fine.

A colleague here at work has recently installed one in his S-works stumpy. brilliant bit of kit, you need to use the supplied spacer sleeve and make sure you use some grip paste in the install. Also you need 2 hollowtech style bb spanners to install it…

really well made and there hasn’t been a creak or groan from his bike in the last month or so since installing it.
one thing to take note of is that once installed, you can still rotate the ENTIRE bb assembly in the frame with a spanner, this is normal.

SJ

Why were you worried about torquing up the cups? If the one you had is similar to the Praxis on it’s tightened up to a physical stop not against the BB shell. I’m more worried by the cups moving and damaging the shell than any clamping force.

Orangeboy

If I have to effectively glue the cups in place I’ll destroy the BB shell if I every need to remove the cups – a bearing change for example.

Ive had one fitted for a few months, seems to be ok still tho not a huge amount of riding on it. Install was pretty simple. Managed with only 1 spanner as gripped once you started screwing in the opposing side.

It’s not great to hae to glue in the bb , but have even doing it with carbon road bikes for a while to stop creaks and seem fine even after several changes of bearing cup
And it’s what the frame manafatcurer recomend ( Spesh )

Personal I hate any of the press fit bb systems and use a pf30 to BSA converter in my enduro

Orangeboy

What whose FF30-BSA convertor do you use? What are you using to glue the cups in with?

thanks

I have been Useing SRAMs own BSA converter and it been fine with no glue required
I will have to check which 3m product it is that we get sent.

It’s 3M DP 420

And used like this tech sheet shows

http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/IG0414_revC.pdf

Thanks that would be great. To be honest the standard plastic cups with 6806 bearings in was fine – except the bearing life. Which is why I thought I’d try the Wheels one. But it now needs a set of bearings because they got trashed when the cups moved and I was 10k in to a 50k ride in the Pyrenees, so I had to over tighten them to try to shut the creaking up. This happened 4 day’s in a row!!!

Well I’ve ordered the Praxis one and I’ll see how that goes, if it’s rubbish I’ll get the SRAM adapter and glue it in and use a Hope HT11 one.

I have been Useing SRAMs own BSA converter and it been fine with no glue required
I will have to check which 3m product it is that we get sent.
It’s 3M DP 420
And used like this tech sheet shows
http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/IG0414_revC.pdf

Opps some odd double post thing going on

One more thing with Spesh I was recommend not to use a wavey washer and only solid ones , depends on crank type

Yeah, it’s OK I’m using a Middleburn X-Type, so no wavy flex going on 😀