What does everyone think to Chopard?

I quite like my historic racing and fancy them now they have started making their own movements.

I’m looking at the sheiks Ska 689 family of watches but can’t for the life of me see what the press button does. Any ideas? Ta.

Omega’s with the Co-axial escapement have ten year service intervals.

Really? You might be right and I’m not an expert by any means (hell, none of us are) but the highly-praised 8500 is still every 4 years.

Seiko ska689 was what I meant, what does the button do?

It’s a kinetic? If so it will force the second hand to move to 12 and then up to 20 seconds. 20 seconds equals fully charged. 10 seconds half.
Seiko are dropping kinetic in favour of solar. With sister companies Pulsar and Citizen also. Kinetic watches do not last forever, the capacitor dies. I would imagine that solar also uses a capacitor, however, my solar citizen is 15 years old and still running. Kinetic- dead. Perhaps it’s the total running down that kinetic do not like.

Ah ha! Thanks.

I’ve got an omega planet ocean it’s a bit orange TBH the normal sea masters way more subtle

Spend £3-4k on something that will appreciate 50% plus over the next decade (Rolex etc)

Or

Seething that will depreciate 70-90% over the next five (Orange etc)

Of unnecessary purchases, which is the better choice?

This bloody thread is rekindling the desire for my dream watch – one I bought and subsequently sold whilst having my (everyone’s allowed one) breakdown period , but am now, albeit sound of mind, seriously considering.

It’s stupid. But then you’re a long time dead etc..

Aargh!

Well on the back of this thread I’ve been checking the accuracy of my watch, and it’s lost 2.5 seconds in around 5 and a half hours.

Not happy at all with that. Going to give it a really good wind in the morning and try it out over a day. If it’s losing more that 5 seconds over 24 hours it’s going back under warranty

Hmmm, that’s kinda what I did when I first got my watch…but tehn I chiled out a bit..

It lost about 8 seconds in teh first 12 hour, then gained a bit, then lost a bit…
I got ‘annoyed’ that it was nearly 12 sec out after the first few days, but then ‘researching it’ (Google/watch forums) i’s actually completely normal for variation. Once I realised that, I kinda ‘liked it’. It’s like it’s a living thing on your wrist… busy/shaky day..it may gain a few sec. Slow day at the office…you lose a bit of time…etc etc

I MIGHT (I’m not sure even I’m that sad..well, maybe I am..) keep a daily check of the +/- seconds to GMT, and see if there’s variation based on my activities.

I really ‘worried’ and thought mine was broken a week in, but as I said…chilling out and realising it’s not an atomic clock, and that over the course of time it’s impressively accurate for a tiny box of springs and cogs shook to bits on the wrist!

DrP

Hmmm, that’s kinda what I did when I first got my watch…but tehn I chiled out a bit..
It lost about 8 seconds in teh first 12 hour, then gained a bit, then lost a bit…
I got ‘annoyed’ that it was nearly 12 sec out after the first few days, but then ‘researching it’ (Google/watch forums) i’s actually completely normal for variation. Once I realised that, I kinda ‘liked it’. It’s like it’s a living thing on your wrist… busy/shaky day..it may gain a few sec. Slow day at the office…you lose a bit of time…etc etc
I MIGHT (I’m not sure even I’m that sad..well, maybe I am..) keep a daily check of the +/- seconds to GMT, and see if there’s variation based on my activities.
I really ‘worried’ and thought mine was broken a week in, but as I said…chilling out and realising it’s not an atomic clock, and that over the course of time it’s impressively accurate for a tiny box of springs and cogs shook to bits on the wrist!
DrP

Fair enough!

Raymond Weil’s tolerances for my model of watch are -5 secs/+20 secs per 24 hours. So far it’s lost 5 secs in 9 hours. You’re right – it’s not a big deal in terms of functionality – but, well, it was expensive, and I want it to outlive me, and therefore I want it to operate within the manufacturer’s own tolerances.

What do people do about winding? In theory it shouldn’t need winding much but I do use the chronograph timer so I have a second hand, so having this constantly going presumably uses much more energy.

RW recommend setting your winder to 4 turns per minute over a 6 hour period. That’s 1440 turns of the crown 😀 Now I don’t have a winder but if I give the watch, say, 100 turns between finger and thumb each morning (each turn = approx. 3 quarters of a full revolution) then I should be set up with enough energy in the spring for the rest of the day, surely?

Or do I need to invest in a winder?

Omega Speedy moonphase :

not my pictures.

£500+ a service every 5 years, comes back like new though.

£250+ for a new strap, so keep it going with regular saddle soaping…

New speedy isn’t the moon watch anymore though as its a different movement, not that the moonphase is anyway as it has sapphire glass.

Isn’t there an argument that having the watch on a winder can actually decrease accuracy? If the watch naturally runs slightly fast in its “on the winder” orientation then it will just increase its offset over time. On the other hand (badum tish!) if you mix things up a bit when you take it off, place it face up, face down, crown up, crown down etc then it’s more likely to balance itself out over a period of time.

This could well be bollocks by the way but it sounded plausible to me.

Isn’t there an argument that having the watch on a winder can actually decrease accuracy?

I don’t know. You may be right, but it sounds to me like the sort of thing hi-fi enthusiasts come up with: like if you support your speaker cables on little wooden blocks then they sound better 😀

Mrs kilo was looking at new watch a couple of weeks ago and the salesman got this out to show us :-)[video]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zQwUrJZmN6I[/video] . I liked that it chimed to tell you the time but possibly a bit too ostentatious !!!

Well the guy I got my watch from said that he wouldn’t use a winder…something about the oils working best one. Warm wrist etc etc..
I wants 100% convinced, but didn’t have the knowledge to call BS. Plus, that’s just kinda rude…!

DrP

Spend £3-4k on something that will appreciate 50% plus over the next decade (Rolex etc)

Not many watches will appreciate over that time, Maybe when they’re brand new with tags and there’s a massive waiting list. Like there is on the new Daytona. Watch tastes change surprisingly frequently.

Best thing the OP can do is go and try some on, in a proper jewellers, not Goldsmiths etc.

I had a friend who used a multi watch winder, the burglar loved it when he carted several of his watches off in a neat carry case.

Best thing the OP can do is go and try some on, in a proper jewellers, not Goldsmiths etc

The caveat here is that I gt my watch my Goldsmiths ( 😉 ) as they actually price matched a jeweller based in the midlands..
I knew what I wanted watch wise, so was looking for the best price from a reputable dealer.

Browns in the midlands had it online (and I suppose, in shop) for just under £2100.
I got goldsmiths online to match it for that price very easily.
Then…I rang Goldsmiths in store and got them to ALSO price match – I was served by the store manager who was very helpful, size it for me, gave me a bit of spiel about ‘enjoying it, yes it’s expensive but wear it daily etc etc’ which was quite nice!

One thing on ostentatiousness..the ruddy boxes these watches come in..man they are OTT!

DrP

Goldsmiths

was looking for the best price from a reputable dealer.

oxymoron
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noun
noun: oxymoron; plural noun: oxymorons

a figure of speech in which apparently contradictory terms appear in conjunction (e.g. faith unfaithful kept him falsely true ).

Well, as in, not some dodgy website selling ohmeega.. 😉

Plus I’ve never had issue with them before, I’d done my own research etc!

I’d buy from halfords if they had what I wanted cheep cheep!

DrP

@hebdencyclist – just FYI don’t wind your watch that way manually. Your watch is designed to run off the automatic mechanism, and the ability to hand wind is for giving it 10-20 turns to kickstart it if it’s run down. There is a mechanism to prevent overwinding as there would be no way of telling when an auto watch is fully wound like a mechanical, but inside the watch is a reversing wheel which is extremely small, and this is what essentially prevents the rotor flying around when you hand wind. This is a complex and very hard working part of your watch – manual winding like that will stress it and it won’t do it much good day in day out. It’s a known weak point on some watches.

Don’t stress about it being off over a few hours, give it a few days of wearing to see how it averages out. If you run your chronograph all the time because you like to see a sweep hand, you will find the watch runs a bit slower, depends on the movement but i’d guess it could be up to 20 secs a day?

Winders are not an issue, some do some don’t, in theory an unworn watch will have less wear than if kept on a winder, but it keeps the oils moving around by keeping it running. More important is how many complications your watch has to set up if you let it run down!

Caveat here is I didn’t say he shouldn’t buy from them, just try to try some on for size, fit etc.

Buy it from where ever you want, but Goldsmiths have massive Omega displays for a reason 😉

Are they in cahoots then? (Genuine question)

Not that it bothers me one bit as I knew what I was after, so the advertising (there anyhow) didn’t ‘get me’!

DrP

Ratadog

I have a Rolex which is 30+ years old. It was a 21st present. I wore it continually for nigh on 25 years until the need to be bare below elbows at work meant that I didn’t fancy walking around with it in my pocket as it is now worth more than my car second hand. Still wear it when not at work though.

The elephant in the room is servicing costs. Rolex recommend servicing every 2-3 years as the lubrication used is said to only last that length of time. In fairness, the watch comes back like new with all worn parts replaced. Last time I had it serviced was about 10 years ago and as the glass had a scratch it was replaced as part of the service which then cost around 250ukp.

Cost of service now is 600ukp+ and once the watch is 40 years old that starting price goes up to 1000ukp. As it was playing up and only right twice a day it is off for service but I now have a couple of Seiko solar watches doing duty for work and play that between them cost a lot less than the service cost of the Rolex and should tick for 10 years plus without service. Not sure that I will get Rolex serviced again although I admire the brilliance of a business model that asks you to pay 3k+ for an item without mentioning that you may need to pay the same again every 10 years for the privilege of continuing to use it.

As you’ve had it for over 30 years you’ll be clear on what type of Rolex it is, could you help the rest of us and steer us away from those that need a £600 service very two years?

I’d be glad to clarify that as I’ve had a 79090 Tudor for over twenty six years but only had that serviced twice so far and I’m now worried that it couldn’t be serviced again without buying into a brilliant business model…

@hebdencyclist – just FYI don’t wind your watch that way manually. Your watch is designed to run off the automatic mechanism, and the ability to hand wind is for giving it 10-20 turns to kickstart it if it’s run down. There is a mechanism to prevent overwinding as there would be no way of telling when an auto watch is fully wound like a mechanical, but inside the watch is a reversing wheel which is extremely small, and this is what essentially prevents the rotor flying around when you hand wind. This is a complex and very hard working part of your watch – manual winding like that will stress it and it won’t do it much good day in day out. It’s a known weak point on some watches.
Don’t stress about it being off over a few hours, give it a few days of wearing to see how it averages out. If you run your chronograph all the time because you like to see a sweep hand, you will find the watch runs a bit slower, depends on the movement but i’d guess it could be up to 20 secs a day?
Winders are not an issue, some do some don’t, in theory an unworn watch will have less wear than if kept on a winder, but it keeps the oils moving around by keeping it running. More important is how many complications your watch has to set up if you let it run down!

Thanks for the advice – much appreciated.

http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/best-watches-baselworld-2016

Plus I’ve never had issue with them before

they screwed me around.

Didn’t notice that the shop was a goldsmiths as it was a pretty old looking place in Guildford and I had been working overnight.

Bought the watch then a cam feel out internally and the watch stopped. Went back, took ages, came back with a scratch on the case.

Went back again for polishing at Omega, came back eventually with deep striations on the case behind the strap.

Went back, Omega said that I had done it when the strap was changed from the standard strap (the leather IS the standard strap on that watch). Maybe someone from goldsmith was practising his polishing technique on it.

Sales guy then said he would get another watch – but the one he got was like some really bad second case that somehow someone had sneaked out the workshop.

More argueing then copied my email to sales of Omega asking what they were going to do to restore my faith in Omega – so a marketing manager stepped in and sent me a new watch immediately.

Had a lovely Omega which was nicked shortly after all-risks insurance expired.
Looked for replacement, couldn’t find what i wanted so got a Breitling Transocean even though i wasn’t 100% about it; it’s got one dial and one bezel so none of the extraneous stuff which, I think, detracts from the appearance of a watch.
Then saw Omega DeVille which was pretty close to the one which was nicked so – bought it.
Breitling is simple and functional but too big for my personal preference; shirt cuffs don’t cover it so it’s always visible and a bit obtrusive but there you go.
Elegance and simplicity of an Omega works for me; as for Goldsmiths having big displays of them – same applies to their Rolex displays.
Ian Blowers and Austin Kaye usually have good ranges of pre-owned from several makers.
For something a bit different – Omega Museum pieces.

Maybe my favourite £3500 watch… despite the date being useless under a shirt cuff. Mixes tool and dress really well. In house movement and beautifully detailed case. Hand wind though, not auto but a 10 day reserve.

Omega Speedy moonphase :

£500+ a service every 5 years, comes back like new though.

£250+ for a new strap, so keep it going with regular saddle soaping…

I take it the moon phase ups the service costs?
Last time my speedie was serviced it was 60 quid.
I had it serviced around 1980 by watches of switzerland, cost 50 quid, but I was on something like 40 quid a week! I had to send it back four times before they regulated it so it was right.
Next service was 1995 and it was 60 quid.
I got it serviced at the watch mender in my high street, he is[was] and old boy who strips and repairs watches in his shop. It needs servicing now.

http://www.ablogtowatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Schofield-Signalman-DLC-1.jpg

One of my favourite watches – a Schofield signalman. Hope the link works I struggle with posting images.null

Here you go

What’s the deal with furry straps? To match face fuzz? Seen a few watches with them.

This thread is in danger of costing me some serious money. I thought I’d got over my watch obsession, it appears not.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGPjFFMD3c0[/video]

This’ll rekindle any obsession!
Look at the detail and tinyness of the bits… LOOK!!

DrP

Any use?

Man’s luxury watch successfully impresses fellow ****

Him upstairs beat me by two mins!

Gotta love the Mash…!

DrP

DAMMIT!

davidtaylforth – Member
Wow, £3.5k; that’s alot of money. I think the biggest issue with spending that much on a watch, is not necessarily the cost of the watch itself, but the cost of all the other things in your life.
You’re gonna look a bit of a tit with a £3.5k watch if you live in one of those generic Barratt Homes style housing developments on the edge of town and drive anything less than a BMW/Merc/Audi etc.

That’s a pretty dim view to be fair. What has the value of your watch got to do with your house or car?

£3.5k could be a holiday, or a bike, or a years worth of fags. None of which have bare any relation to whether you live in a Barratt House or drive an Audi.