• This topic has 65 replies, 21 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by Pook.
Viewing 26 posts - 41 through 66 (of 66 total)
  • pook's amateur electrical pt 2
  • Jamie
    Free Member

    I agree with JY.

    If anything, have some more beer then take a crack at it.

    Pook
    Full Member

    This is what’s going on at the boiler end of things, then the manuals for the timer and a ‘v4043H motorised zone valve’, of which there are two.

    Boiler guide:

    Valve guide:

    I’m going to die, aren’t I?

    piedidiformaggio
    Free Member

    I’m going to die, aren’t I?

    Yes, no doubt about that.

    Just a question of when. I trust you’re wearing thick Marigolds and wellies today?

    rwamartin
    Free Member

    is the cable on the left the three core from the stat? Turn off the fcu (switch) on the right and take the cover off. post me another photo of the guts.
    Rich

    rwamartin
    Free Member

    misread early post. boiler isn’t a combi. System is an ‘s’ plan.

    rwamartin
    Free Member

    that is also not the boiler guide. it is the guide for the programmer (Danfoss 3060).

    Tracker1972
    Free Member

    I am assuming someone has heard from pook recently? Anyone in his vicinity notice unusual flickering lights?

    rwamartin
    Free Member

    [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yml8WZ7QdBA[/video]

    rogerthecat
    Free Member

    I can see flames in Sheffield from here, and I’m in Pembrokeshire at the moment.

    pictonroad
    Full Member

    I fitted the same thermostat last week. As said, only two wires need connecting, it’s a simple switch, you leave the timer permanently on and set the programme on the stat. Make c safe and tuck it out the way.

    Pook
    Full Member

    I’m alive!

    But which two wires go where???

    I’ve been busy all day doing dad things and biking

    rwamartin
    Free Member

    Connect 2 in the danfoss controller to “A” in the stat. Connect “B” to the boiler. Which wires are which will depend on how it has been done in the controller which is why I need a picture of the inside.
    Rich

    Pook
    Full Member

    Going to get that later for you rich – stuck at work all day now unfortunately. Later I’ll be tinkering with a little lad asleep in the room – that’s where it all is….

    Pook
    Full Member

    Right… The timer

    binners
    Full Member

    alanl
    Free Member

    Don’t start connecting anything without tracing the original 3 wires. There should be an earth there too.
    They were, most probably, Live, Switched Live, Neutral and earth.
    Now, you will only want Live and Switched live to connect to the new stat.
    It doesnt really matter which way they go round, but to do it properly, permanent Live should be to Terminal A, and switched live to B.
    Disconnect Neutral at the programmer end.
    You do realise to turn the programmer heating to ‘On’ at all times?

    Pook
    Full Member

    I’m not mucking about until I’m 100%.

    garage-dweller
    Full Member

    You do realise that with chuffing 3 days away on here you could have had someone in to do it for you?

    Is this type of wiring not subject to all sorts of building regs / legal restrictions?

    Sorry not one for excessive pedantry about these things but boiler + electrics.. Eeeek

    Pook
    Full Member

    I have time in hand to learn. Why would I deny myself the knowledge, or at the very least the opportunity to learn something?

    rwamartin
    Free Member

    Ok Pook, this is easy.

    Firstly, ensure the power is off. This requires you to either turn off at the switch or set the dial knob to H+W Off. Either of these options will ensure the stat. cable is dead at the stat. end. There are live terminals inside the Danfoss box so do not touch anything in there. (There is no need).

    Looking inside the Danfoss box, you’ll see the three core from your stat: this is the wire on the left. You’ll see that the blue/red/yellow wires go to terminals 1, 2 and 3 respectively with the terminals being numbered from the left.

    The cabling is correct at this end. You can reassemble the Danfoss box.

    At the stat end, put the red wire into terminal A and the yellow wire into terminal B. The blue is NOT REQUIRED. Trim any exposed copper off and tape it up. It’s a neutral and is not dangerous but I wouldn’t cut it off in case it’s required in the future.

    Ensure the connections are tight, insert the batteries and switch the power back on. Ensure the Danfoss is set for the boiler to come on (ie H is on) and everything will be fine.

    My email is in my profile. If you want to drop me a mail I’ll let you have my phone number and I’ll talk it through with you.

    Rich.

    Pook
    Full Member

    Brilliant – cheers rich. I’ll have a look tonight.

    rwamartin
    Free Member

    Just to address the “earth” issue. You’ll find that almost every stat. is double insulated and thus doesn’t require an earth. What a lot of people do is cut the earth off in the cable. If you look closely at the stat. end of the cable, you’ll probably see a fourth conductor which is has no insulation around it and which has been cut back to the outer (grey) insulation.

    You don’t need to do anything with the earth.

    Rich.

    mrmonkfinger
    Free Member

    Pook
    Full Member

    We have central heating!!!! Rich, you are star. Thank you.

    Jamie
    Free Member

    You owe Rich a pint or 12.

    Pook
    Full Member

    Already one step ahead of you gifboy! Rich, ygm.

    I love stw for this kind of thing.

Viewing 26 posts - 41 through 66 (of 66 total)

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