The Old Boxxers on my DH bike are looking pretty scuffed and knackered again, and rather than do yet another rattle can job I’m considering trying out Plasti dip which can apparently be bush applied but smooths itself out…

Anyone else used the stuff? is it any good? durable enough?

Or should I go and buy a tin of hammerite?

got a link to it?

Quite tempted to try a pick up truck flat bed spray on a frame of mine as it should be pretty tough and matte. Hard to get over here though (made in America)

You can get spray on vinyl, next door guy does vunyl wraps e.t.c and has used the spray on stuff on his wheel which seems to be lasting quite well.
http://mmdworks.com/

I have an aerosol can of plastidip. I bought it because it is easy to apply, fairly durable but easy to peel off once too damaged or when bored of the colour. I have it to use on a piece of motorcycle bodywork.

Using Hammerite will be irreversible and I don’t think you will get a finish that will be all that good.

Check some of the videos on you-tube of plastidip being used on all sorts.

I’m not too worried about achieving a “factory” finish TBH.

The last re-painting was a rattlecan primer and then as I couldn’t decide on a colour I just left it as white un-finished primer, which has started to flake after a fair old while, I just can’t be arsed doing a “proper job” on such an old fork that only ever gets bashed and scuffed.

I’ve even heard tales of people masking off seals and stanchions and just re-finishing forks that way!!! not sure about that particular idea myself but it would be quick…
Ooooh they do clear too, I could just polish the lowers and then clear coat them… Or they do Glow in the dark cool!

Hmmm…

UK website

I’m tempted by the glow in the dark too. I don’t need it for anything just want to paint ‘things’ in the garden with it.

you might be on to some thing there, my daughters play house does look a bit bland TBH, I think glow in the dark pink would do nicely

Id use the spray paint and then get some vinyls, will look custom and take the abuse of uplifts etc

Did amask off job on some brown 36 talas to black with the plasti cote stuff from b and q and they turned out incredibly sweet, plenty of coats though
http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c134/mattzzzzzz/?action=view¤t=9e4f08d9.jpg&evt=user_media_share

Used it to cover wheels on my car before I. Sold it….it looks good when done and lasts well.

key to any decent paint job is the prep.

If you spray aluminium use an etch primer – it will make a hell of a difference. If you are just spraying over old paint them make sure you key it well and degrease it with IPA. You can also use plastic primers if the item is coated in something that might be hard to stick to otherwise.

I used Plasti-cote rattle cans to paint my ’05 Reba’s , they looked great for about 6-7 months then the scuffs started to take their toll. Now 3 years on they look a right mess with chunks of paint missing and loads of scuffs .I think I should try to fall off a bit less.

When newly sprayed they looked like this–>

no pics of what they look like now.

Could the plasti dip be just the thing for protecting frames from cable rub etc, as they do a clear version?

Perhaps on a carbon frame instead of helitape?

Check your replys guy’s PLASTI DIP and PLASTI COAT are two different things.

Could the plasti dip be just the thing for protecting frames from cable rub etc, as they do a clear version?

Perhaps on a carbon frame instead of helitape?

Nope. Easy route is just use a decent PU coating. This is what I am doing on my carbon frame when I refinish it again. I have formulated myself a nice coating that you can abuse with wire wool and can just about make out a mark. Have helitaped up my carbon frame in all the key areas but all the other areas that get branches etc have all got a few scratches. But they are battle scars and a reminder of all the fun I have had.

But I would say helitape is still a much easier solution as you can easily remove it if it does get damaged and it is thicker so protects better against knocks and the adhesive layer means it shears across the paint instead of taking the paint with it.

So in short – some frame makers really need to use better lacquers. But helitape is still a very good solution and one I would use anyway in key areas for both extreme rub and impact protection.