I’m tryying to get a pair of Superstar Nano X pedals out of some XT cranks. Starting with the right hand side pushing counter clockwise with the allen wrench fitted to the inside of the crank arm.

It will not shift! Is my approach wrong?

Any assistance greatly appreciated!

If they weren’t greased when fitted then they can certainly be a bugger to remove. It’s sometimes necessary to fit a long piece of pipe over the allen wrench for extra leverage.

Or try hitting it with a hammer – the shock can sometimes do the trick.

Even try hitting it the “wrong” way in order to free it up.

Can you use the crank for some leverage? Put the Allen key so that the shaft is nearly alongside the crank but just a bit out. Grip both the Allen key and the crank with one hand and squeeze. Usually does the trick.

Stand on the wrench if long enough. Flip bike downsideup, wrap hand in towel, put all of your weight on the wrench.

If you’re turning it anti clockwise when your looking at the back of the crank arm, that’s the wrong way (I’m pretty sure)
If you hold the pedal axle while back pedalling, that’s tightening it up

It will be clockwise when looking from inside of crank arm on drive side. Allen key plus a hammer.

From pedal side you always loosen to rear wheel. Either side.

Ditto, you are turning it the wrong direction

Ah yes. It depends where you’re standing 🙂

For right (drive) side crank.
Insert allen wrench to approx the 3’o’clock position.
Stand on left side of bike, foot under the BB
Stomp on wrench.

How to make it foolproof-

Do it from the inside on a pedla that has a hex end, like your nanos do.
Use a big p or t handled allen key or similiar.
Rotate the crank so that the pedal is just below the downtube
Stick the allen key into the hole so that it’s pointing forwards on the bike
Rotate hte crank so that the allen key bumps against hte downtube, then turn the key towards the downtube.

This takes away any worrying about standing on the wrong side, getting pedals mixed up, anything like that and supporting the tool against the downtube means it’s not likely to cam out and the crank won’t rotate on you.

Here is the way that I remember how to deal with pedals.

Attach Allen key or pedal spanner, so that it is (as much as possible) pointing away from the bottom bracket. Pull up on the Allen key/ spanner, whilst pressing down on the pedal.

Whether this tightens or loosens the pedal, depends on whether the tool is pointing to the from or back of the bike – back means you’re putting the pedal ‘back’ on.

Also what sort of key are you using?
My pedal axles were greased from last time I fitted them, but my 4inch/6inch or so long wrench wasn’t working, even using a ring spanner (just kept slipping) on it for more leverage it was a cheap Allen key and slightly worn.

I bought a good long ‘p’ handle 8mm key for about a tenner as I use that size a lot in other stuff, hence the wear.

Much better engagement, much more leverage, unscrewed easy as you like.

So it’s worth seeing if your Allen key is worn.

Slide your largest ring spanner over the hex key for even more leverage

Maybe spray some plusgas into the thread and leave for a bit to penetrate

Something like this..
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B009ODV0OE/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1507990973&sr=8-17&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=8mm+allen+key

I just bought a single park tool p handle 8mm,as it’s only the 8mm and one other size (can’t remember) that I seem to really use out of my set, or at least I only seem to damage those sizes the most if they are cheap ones.

It’s got a good plastic lump on the bend you can get hold of better to stop it slipping.

But as mentioned above if the threads weren’t greased when they were fitted, a good drenching in penetrative oil will also be needed.

Having a long well made Allen key makes a huge difference though, loads more leverage and fits much better in the socket so it doesn’t slip when you put some force on it.

You’re not swearing enough

Thanks. Drive side pedal is proving to be a bugger!

Non drive side came off using some extra leverage but I’m having to push so hard counter – clockwise on the drive side I can feel the allen key bending!

The remnant of the lube I put on the pedal thread was still apparent on the non drive side pedal when I got it out so I can’t understand why they have been so stubborn to remove!

He will be when he rips his knuckles off the chainring

He will be when he rips his knuckles off the chainring

Yep – he was told to wrap it in a towel n’all

Non drive side came off using some extra leverage but I’m having to push so hard counter – clockwise on the drive side I can feel the allen key bending!

He knows it’s the other way round does he?

Can’t be arsed to get up and check, but isn’t it clockwise with allen key from the rear to remove drive side?

but isn’t it clockwise with allen key from the rear to remove drive side?

One side is a reverse thread of the other.. Can’t remember which side is clock/counter clock though, I usually google it to make sure before trying to do pedals 🙂

I know to wrap it in a towel, do I…… Oh no, I use the towel to mop up the blood.

If you’re looking at the rear of the drive side crank then it’s clockwise to unscrew.

I find a good way of remembering for me is that if the pedal axle was fixed, when you pedal forward the thread would tighten, so as to be sure you don’t unthread when pedalling. With that in mind, if you back pedal then you would un thread.

Pedals pointing toward the ground, allen key/pedal spanner inserted and pointing towards the rear of the bike/parallel to ground, press down towards ground. Some cursing may be needed to get it going.

If really stubborn I bind the other crank arm to the chain stay with para cord and use a long breaker bar and 8mm hex bit.
Also a bit of heat if plusgas hasn’t done the job.

You’re tightening the pedal up, OP. You need to turn the allen key clockwise from the back, anti-clockwise from the front. Right side pedal/crank thread is right hand. Righty-tighty, lefty loosey.

woah there everyone, I’m sure some of the above is wrong.

People should just “Back off”

Crank forward so you have space to access the hex socket or the flats

Tool upwards.

And then a nudge with the rubber mallet towards the back of the bike to get the pedal off. So literally – BACK – OFF

Ok, so I’m looking at the drive side. I should put the allen key in facing the back of the bike and push down?

Yes – if you are standing on the same side of the bike as the cranks, wrench at 9 o’clock and press down.

So that’s counter clockwise ?

This is all very confusing…

Astride the bike, the left pedal has the left hand thread.

If unscrewing using the hex on the back of the pedal, work from the back of the left crank (so kneel on the right side of the bike) to determine the direction to turn the tool, remembering it is opposite to normal.

I would suggest the OP uses a hex key that attaches to a ratchet/small breaker bar, seems much more secure and less likely to round off than the average hex key.

Yes

PMSL, it’s a pedal FFS!

The right is normal (CCW to loosen), the left is opposite (CW to loosen).

Use a pedal spanner as you’ll get more leverage and no chance of bending/snapping/stripping the allen key

I find a good way of remembering for me is that if the pedal axle was fixed, when you pedal forward the thread would tighten, so as to be sure you don’t unthread when pedalling. With that in mind, if you back pedal then you would un thread.

Wrong way round is it not. it unscrews as you pedal tightens as you backpedal does it not. Precession makes it do the reverse in action but if a pedal seizes it unscrews as you pedal

Used to have this problem, but not since using anti-seize paste. Also don’t do them up ridiculously tight so that you have a bit of leeway to turn them the wrong way when attempting to remove them.

davidtaylforth – Member
PMSL, it’s a pedal FFS!

The right is normal (CCW to loosen), the left is opposite (CW to loosen).

Use a pedal spanner as you’ll get more leverage and no chance of bending/snapping/stripping the allen keyDepends where you are standing and some pedals don’t have flats for a spanner.

Yes TJ – precession is what keeps them screwed on and is counter to the direction if rotation of the pedal.

Right hand pedal; right hand thread (& vice versa for left)

Whichever way the bike is, imagine you’re looking from the outside of the cranks on the driveside – you need the pedal axle to turn anticlockwise as you would be looking at it from that side

If you put in the hex key and apply pressure, the direction to undo, is the direction that your pressure just turns the crank, hence you need to brace either pedal\put your foot on the other pedal.

Righty-tighty, lefty loosey.

The use of this phrase always amuses me.
To the uninitiated, it’s not obvious what is going left or right.
If you understand the left/right implications of the phrase, then you don’t need the phrase.

To add to the confusion.

If you are sat on the bike, or imagine yourself sat on the bike, with the pedal spanner or Allen key pointing upwards (or in the twelve o’clock position if you prefer) pull it back towards yourself, whichever pedal you are removing.

Northwind had it bang on.

Both pedals undo towards the back of the bike and tighten to the front. It’s that simple.
Use t handle hex key and use the frame (I use the inside of the seat tube) to give you purchase.

That’s how I always remember it. To loosen undo towards the back of the bike on both sides. ISometimes with my Time pedals the Allen key isn’t robust enough to untighten a really stuck pedal and a spanner on the outside of the pedal axle gives you more leverage.