Hi

been out on my cotic escapade today. Great ride covering some tarmac cycle routes, fire roads, country lanes and muddy bridleways. Bike was great and the weather was windy but good.

The bike’s great and its quick enough for me and handles any terrain. The only issue I have is when i’m climbing out of the saddle on the hoods or the sides of the top of the bars in the small ring and in the bottom three or so gears on the back.

Basically the top of the pedal stroke seems wierd. When I go over the top of the pedal stroke there’s some wierd dead space that feels odd bio-mechanically. Pedalling sat down is fine and feels natural enough.

I’m 5’8″ tall with a 30-31″ inside leg and riding a small escapade. Its specced with sora 11-32 cassette and 34/50 chainset. It’s got 175mm cranks and i’m running a pair of eggbeaters on it with my shimano shoes.

My mtb is a genesis latitude 853 in 16.5″ size with quite a bit of post but 170mm cranks. I don’t notice this happening out of the saddle on my mtb.

Any ideas?

After poo-pooing the idea, I’ve actually decided that crank length does make a difference. It certainly feels smoother – and therefore easier – when pedalling uphill now I’ve started using shorter cranks.

The other thing is to check your pedalling action. If standing up, you’ll not be pedalling in a smooth circuit, you’ll be more stomping on each downstroke. It might therefore feel that there’s a deadzone.

Stomping on pedals (rather than smooth seated cadence) in low ratios making slow freehub engagement more pronounced..? [/stab in dark]

175 is longish for a small road setup, 172.5 or 170 more common, so could be a factor. I do find shorter cranks are ‘smoother’ but that’s based in my own very limited experience of comparing my track riding (165) to road (172.5) and MTB (175)

Riding out of the saddle in wee gears on a road bike. Bound to feel odd. You are over thinking it.

I’m 5’8″….It’s got 175mm…

There’s the issue…
I am 5’10” here and I religiously stick to 170mm, feels more comfortable spinning sat down and stood…

I’m with al ( 😯 )

depending on what you’re climbing, that’s low gears on a road bike unless you’re touring

Wee gears because out of shape!

It sort of feels like slow free hub engagement. It’s like I have to flick my feet round at the top of the stroke.

Out of saddle in bigger gears it’s been fine just perhaps a headwind/ big hill issue today? Will try the hill again tomorrow or this week and see if I can work it out.

Your freehub is already engaged, that is irrelevant.

The issue is you have a low gear and little resistance.

I had this, cured it with shorter crank arms.

Are you wrestling the bike from side to side? With long cranks like you have (I’m about the same dimensions as you and run 172.5mm) you’ll quickly be at the bottom of the stroke and the bike will still be leaning. Watch Contador “dance on the pedals”, and you’ll see his extra power comes from his glutes rather than his shoulders, therefore keeping a smooth style.

Good grief – how much shorter did you go with the crank arms?

Cynic-al – I didn’t say it was the free hub, just felt like that.

Tried ankling?

Al’s right.

Have you read about moments of inertia?

Have you read about moments of inertia?

Are they on Spotify?

Moments of inertia?

I have weeks of it

🙂

Unlikely but worth ruling out, check your pedal bearings (can you wobble pedal side to side on spindle) and crank arm is tight and threads okay.

I had this, couldn’t work out what it was till it suddenly got really bad and my crank arm came loose.

Because you’re going slowly up a steep incline every time you stop putting pedal pressure in you slow right down and when you’re in the power part of the stroke you speed up.
That happens all the time, it’s just accentuated at lower speeds.

Crank length was what came to mind as I started reading your post. I’ve 165’s on one bike and everything else is 170. If I ever need to change cranks I’ll go for 165’s where possible.
The gearing thing also makes a difference, as you go to stand try shifting up a gear and see if that makes a difference. It’s also free so that alone makes it the best place to start.

175–>165.
You’ll have to drop a couple of teeth from the chainring to keep the gearing similar if you’re sensitive to that but everything else is worth it.

Decreased hip/knee angle at 12/6 o’clock position allows you to get back on the power sooner each pedal stroke. It also lessens your hips rocking side to side.

For the same cadence your actual foot speed at the pedal is decreased so you can spin a little higher rpm.