Viewing 37 posts - 41 through 77 (of 77 total)
  • Orange 5 Build questions
  • creamegg
    Free Member

    I found the sdg pretty comfy but as said not all arses were made equal

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    I phoned orange and they told me a triple works..but nothing bigger than a 32 middle ring.
    The pro comes with a triple chain set..22/32/42
    http://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/p/13268/orange-five-pro-275-full-suspension-mountain-bike-2014

    pitchpro2011
    Free Member

    I see, thought you had a double on there for a second.

    pitchpro2011
    Free Member

    Oh and nice colour choice

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Got some more done tonight..
    Picking up some outer gear cable in the morning..levers didn’t cone with any, even though the comments suggest they did.

    Halfrauds to the rescue.. But with 20% off gear cable kits for 11.99..
    Also picked up a Sells Italia Max SLR gel flow for £60.. Cheapest online was £75.

    Hope head doctor was tighter than a ducks ass..so binned the oring.

    creamegg
    Free Member

    Starting to take shape! Ive got a mate whos after some new lights, do you have any prices, battery run time and output?

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    I have this one spare..which is quite bright..

    Drop me a mail..email in profile.. 🙂

    Anyone see a problem? apart from no saddle

    dirtydog
    Free Member

    Goldigger – Member

    I phoned orange and they told me a triple works..but nothing bigger than a 32 middle ring.
    The pro comes with a triple chain set..22/32/42

    Had a triple on mine and got sick of dropping the chain, reckon you’ll end up going 1×10 or 2×10 with some sort of chain device.

    Orange are wrong!

    I know of two people running 24/36 on a triple, I’m sure they can’t be the only ones, there have been some clearance issues when running a 36t in the past, however, for them to say it doesn’t work is just wrong.

    Advice should have been, we’re not sure as tolerances vary, try it and see, it may well do.

    chip
    Free Member

    I think it all depends on the welds.
    Some may not take larger rings due to the welding so they cover there tucos by saying that larger rings don’t fit.

    But you may be lucky.

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Spoke to tftuned this morning.
    Ordered a CCDB Air, I was advised that the CCDB Air CS wouldn’t work as well for me.
    As I’m 100kg kitted up and I’d be running the shock at 200psi or more, the high speed rebound would be out of range..

    There will be a unused fox evo CTD up for sale later..

    qtip
    Full Member

    Spoke to tftuned this morning.
    Ordered a CCDB Air, I was advised that the CCDB Air CS wouldn’t work as well for me.
    As I’m 100kg kitted up and I’d be running the shock at 200psi or more, the high speed rebound would be out of range..

    I thought that was only a problem with the Inline. Looks like it will have to be a CCDB Air on my 5 too then. Shame, I quite like the pro-pedal on my RP23 and was hoping to get the Air CS.

    Ecky-Thump
    Free Member

    190×50 CCDB coil with mounting hardware for Five going spare now that I’ve sold my Five frame. 550lb spring. Email in profile.

    Also second the comment about middle chainring size. Some run a 36 happily and some don’t.
    I suspect you can make it work on most Fives if you offset the swingarm alignment by a mm or so when tightening the bearings (but I never tried it)

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    I thought that was only a problem with the Inline. Looks like it will have to be a CCDB Air on my 5 too then. Shame, I quite like the pro-pedal on my RP23 and was hoping to get the Air CS.

    I know where your coming from…I was pretty much set on the CS.. Hopefully I can live without the shiny switch.
    Plenty of people have coils on there 5’s without any pro pedal feature..

    creamegg
    Free Member

    The ccdb coil dosent need a propedal switch. You can tune it so theres virtually no pedal bob

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    There’s no difference between the damping circuits in the standard and CS CCDBA – the CS circuit is a separate low speed compression and rebound circuit (with five different preset tunes).

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    chiefgrooveguru – Member
    There’s no difference between the damping circuits in the standard and CS CCDBA – the CS circuit is a separate low speed compression and rebound circuit (with five different preset tunes).

    Are you saying tftuned are wrong?

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    There may well be an issue with the CCDB inline’s rebound damping range. I can’t see how there is a similar problem in the CCDBA-CS seeing as it’s a completely different shock which is near identical to the CCDBA if you ignore the extra circuits for the climb switch. The high speed rebound circuit has nothing to do with the CS circuits and is the same as on the original CCDBA (but with an Allen rather than spanner adjuster). All the base tunes are the same for CCDBA and CCDBA-CS, which confirms how they’re identical bar the CS add-on.

    I think someone at TFT has got confused between the two!

    composite
    Free Member

    I run a double converted from a triple with the big ring being a 36. Never had any clearance issues at all.

    Before I built it I changed the bearings in the swing arm and took a lot of time making sure it was centered properly so it’s definitely not the arm being offset that gives me the clearance.

    dirtydog
    Free Member

    it’s definitely not the arm being offset that gives me the clearance.

    +1

    Mines never been off, had it since new and it looks central as far as I can see.

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    chiefgrooveguru – Member
    There may well be an issue with the CCDB inline’s rebound damping range. I can’t see how there is a similar problem in the CCDBA-CS seeing as it’s a completely different shock which is near identical to the CCDBA if you ignore the extra circuits for the climb switch. The high speed rebound circuit has nothing to do with the CS circuits and is the same as on the original CCDBA (but with an Allen rather than spanner adjuster). All the base tunes are the same for CCDBA and CCDBA-CS, which confirms how they’re identical bar the CS add-on.

    I think someone at TFT has got confused between the two!

    Did a little reading online and it suggests that the CS is just an addition to the CCDB AIR..
    will probably phone tftuned at 9am and change my order.

    mickle141
    Free Member

    Ooh good thread! I think spec comes down to personal preference but if its any help I test-rode a Five Pro with upgraded RCT3 forks and Monarch+ rear shock. It wasn’t the lightest bike I’ve ever ridden but it felt invincible and really well balanced. http://www.3peakscycles.com/p/7079/Orange-Five-Pro—2015

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Spoke tftuned, I was told that the CS has an effect on HSR.. Whether that is when the switch is on or off I forgot to ask.
    But I’ve gone for the CS..as a lot of my local routes have climbes and I’ll miss the pro pedal type feature..

    One thing tftuned told me is that because the shock is going on a single pivot.. Not having enough HSR can be a issue.

    poah
    Free Member

    There are guys in the states running the shock over 200psi without any issue

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Just finished building this.. Gears need a bit of fettling and need to take my saints of my anthem.
    Had a blast round the block, weight wise it feels heavy but riding it, it doesn’t notice. Feels very quick and nibble.

    Adjusting the front mech is a FAFF!

    dalesjoe
    Free Member

    Out of curiosity what sort of sag are you guys running on your rear shocks? I have the 2015 five frame with a fox ctd factory shock which I have running at 30% (13st so about 180psi). I was looking at the fox website the other day where it states that this shock should be set at 15 to 20% sag? I’d always thought 30 was about right on the five?

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    Depends entirely what your doing with it for sag. If you heading XC fast and zippy down the 20% way if your bouncing through a lot then more. Best approach is to take a shock pump out and mess around with it.

    takisawa2
    Full Member

    That looks smart Goldigger.
    Like the colour & black componentry.

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Cheers takisawa2..
    All I need is some green flow stickers for the rims lol.

    Here’s a better pic..

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Went out for a quick 10 miler locally..
    I’d say it climbs better than my anthem, didn’t loose rear traction and less pedal Bob.

    Only thing I found was the small bump sensitivity for the pikes was a bit non existent.
    I have them 85% psi, 1 click lsr and 7 clicks from slow rebound..
    I’ll up the rebound.. Lsr was previously set to half way

    Ecky-Thump
    Free Member

    Try the Pikes with less pressure in them.
    I’m running <70psi and I’m 13.5 st.
    Stick a couple of those “bottomless token” air spacer jobbies in there too if you have them, then you’ll possibly be able to drop pressure even further without bottoming out, as they make it ramp up more towards the end of the travel.

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    I’ll give that a try..
    Need to get a socket and machine it flat..
    I have the tokens..

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    I’ve got a rather annoying clicking noise when pedaling.. Notice it more when I’m pedaling along on the flats.
    It’s not the seat/seat post.

    My suspicion is the bottom bracket (brand new XT)
    Is it normal to have to bang the crank out to remove the axle from the bottom bracket?

    Pretty sure my Anthem one I can just pull out.

    chip
    Free Member

    When you here the clicking, ride out of the saddle to see if it stops, if so not your bb .
    I had a click that is wore blind was the bb because it happens at the same point of my crank rotation with every turn .
    But it stopped when out of the saddle.
    So set about try to eliminate it one theory so I would atleast to know what the problem was when and if I could cure it.

    Turned out to be the seat tube/seatpost clamp interface. So removed the clamp a thin wipe of grease around the inside of the clamp did the job.

    I had checked the crank, pedals,headset, seat post ,rear drop outs and cable slap before finding the problem.

    weeksy
    Full Member

    Is it normal to have to bang the crank out to remove the axle from the bottom bracket?

    Pretty sure my Anthem one I can just pull out.

    Very very rarely have I found one that comes out without a good smack from a rubber hammer.

    Green
    Full Member

    I had a clicking noise when pedalling, I thought it was the new BB I had fitted, but actually turned out to be a dry thread on one of the pedals, a bit of grease and the noise has gone away.

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Cheers for the replies..
    I’ll grease the seat post clamp interface..didn’t think about that when I chucked it on.
    Might just remove every bolt and grease the threads..

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    As I suspected it was the pedals..
    If you have saint pedals, make sure the gold nut is up tight.

Viewing 37 posts - 41 through 77 (of 77 total)

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