So I stripped the rear hub on my planetX wheel (model B i think) to replace bearings.
Ordered and received new bearings.
Fitted them carefully.
But there is some play in wheel. Only a tiny bit, but shouldn’t be any, right.

I drifted the bearings in using a bit of 15mm copper pipe. This was on the inner race. I don’t think I bashed it that hard, but do you think have I damaged the bearings – thus giving the play?

Happy to have another go. Bearings are cheap enough.
And we learn by making mistakes, right? 🙂

Also – any secret to getting the other two bearings out of the freewheel?

Yep. Outer races only.

So you whacked / pressed the inner race?

Personally I’d doubt that’ll cause play straight away. Medium term it’ll go notchy as a ratchet (lesson learned the hard way).

Oh yes, I know it’s lesson learned. Makes absolute sense when you think about it. As I said, only a few quid wasted. And a lot learned.

Reckon it’ll only take me 5 mins to do it again, the right way this time.

Can you think of any other reason why there might be play? Definitely the right bearings. No bits left over after installation… }:8)

So there’s play when done up in the frame and the QR (presumably) tightened? With the endcaps off and sticking your podgiest fingers in the inner races is there any movement? With the finger test – does it spin ok?

Not sure I’d notice as there is not a lot of play on the full wheel.
You can just feel it on the axle itself. But only just.

Will stick em in and wiggle and see what happens.

play is only in the smaller non-drive side bearing. can push down on the drive side of the axle and still move the non drive side up and down a tiny bit, but if I push down on the NDS, I can’t wiggle the drive side.

Ergo the NDS bearing is borked.

Concur?

Or possibly the bearing is loose on the axle, had one last week on a fairly expensive hub, a smear of Stud’n’Bearing Fit compound on the mating surfaces sorted it out.

I replaced the freehub body and bearing on my DT Swiss 1800s (that’s an onyx replacement part). Still get some play as described above even after re tightening end nuts again and again.

Maybe I need this on the bearing to axle faces too:

“Loctite 270 Stud ‘n’ Bearing Fit is a high strength, general purpose threadlocker with a breakaway torque of 33Nm. Suitable for all metal fasteners, including stainless steel, aluminium, plated surfaces and chrome-free coatings it tolerates slight contaminations of industrial oils. It is ideal for permanently locking studs on engine blocks and pump housings and only to be used if regular removal for maintenance is not required”

Well, got a replacement and fitted. LBS price was same as simplybearings+P&P so got it from there. They were quiet so chap popped it on for me with proper driver. Jobs a good ‘un.
Have also found better thing to drive it on with at home.

So all in all, a fiver lost, but lots of knowledge gained. Fair deal, I reckon.

(I was right about which side had the play)

I replaced the bearings on my Hope pro2 front wheel (20mm).
Still had play – turned out the axle was worn and I had to buy a new one.

The 20mm hubs are not a great design – the cartridge bearings sit directly on the axle with no spacer and over time cause deep grooves to appear on the axle.

I replaced the bearings on my Hope pro2 front wheel (20mm).
Still had play – turned out the axle was worn and I had to buy a new one.

The 20mm hubs are not a great design – the cartridge bearings sit directly on the axle with no spacer and over time cause deep grooves to appear on the axle.

you’re doing it wrong. zero problems with 20mm axles and bearings. seems you’ve been niglecting the maintenance

There’s always someone isnt there…
What maintainance do you suggest to prevent this then exactly as I cant think of anything.

My wheels are Veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeery old – and have been hammered
Perhaps yours have not

a light amount of grease on the axle for starters.

my wheels are also old. running one of the 1st batch of 2nd gen hope bulbs on my dh bike. its been on 6 maybe 7 different set of 20mm forks and never had problems you describe. the only way I can see the bearing wearing

deep grooves

on the axle is because the bearings have ceased causing the inner race to turn on the axle.
this shouldn’t happen

its been on 6 maybe 7 different set of 20mm forks

this is the point though isnt it – its the fork axle that wears out not the hub itself

Iv had the same forks (Fox 36) for 5 years and had to eventually change the axle.
This isnt caused by bearings locking up as I replace them regularly – its just general wear and tear…. and its pointless to grease the axle as there is no seal against the elements. Any grease just collects grit and then washes away.

keep doing what you’re doing. seems you have a good thing there with how it works with you…

I like not to replace axles and look after kit

I really shouldnt keep this going but I cant help it…

…but you have replaced your axles!
6 or 7 times – with your forks????????????

each time the fork axle was in great condition. no deep gouges no wear marks…nothing.

You can’t bake a cake without cracking a few eggs 🙂

And btw, if youve got ‘deep grooves’ on your axle that’s not general wear and tear. Full stop.

that’s not general wear and tear

It is for me – full stop – Capital Letter
I still have the axle somewhere if you want to see
So there!

mental note to self don’t buy anything off ndthornton.

ndthornton

I’m pretty certain I’m wrong now but I’m going to keep on flogging this one

Fair play.