Any Singletrackers running 1X10 with the full OneUp extender, 16T sprocket and Rad Cage?

I’ve been considering going 1X10 ever since a friend converted his hardtail but I’m a bit confused by all the competing systems. I’ve been advised by the LBS that the full OneUp system is the way to go but looking for some real world feedback before going down that route.

and IM still looking for an English Uk price on them! Lol
*puts the kettle on and grabs the hobnobs*

Yep, I have them on my fat bike and 26er hardtail. Easy to fit if you follow the instructions. The shift up is noticeably slower but it works fine and they’re not wearing any faster than a normal cog. The green ones look pretty cool too.

This chap on eBay was selling them for £30 delivered

eBay link

I have but without the rad cage as I run a Zee FR on my bike. It shifts fine from the 36 to the 40 and back fine but the 16 tooth isn’t as smooth as the original cassette but that’s mainly because it’s not machined the same way my Shimano cassette is, I’d still recommend it though.

No rad cage as my XT mech works fine on the 40t without
Needed minimal tweeting of the mech screws
Not had any issues with the 16t cog, bit you don’t need it, it just evens out the gap after you remove the 17t

What UK price are you after? They are shipped from Europe/Uk so you don’t get any hidden (duty/tax) charges

Yup, and for some time now. Run with a 32T front ring. It wasn’t too bad without the RAD cage when everything was new (chain, derailure, cassette etc) but as parts wore (and got attacked / bent by various bits of rocky mountains) the shifting quality degraded. Adding the RAD cage restored nice quick and precise/reliable shifting.

No way would i go back now to 2by for general AM/Enduro duties etc!

(only reason i’d run 2by is for long (>60Km per day etc) multi day XC jaunts where having a “bailout” ring might come in handy)

I’ve just fitted a rad cage to my XT mech. Shifting was ok before but theres a noticeable improvement with the cage in place and very little b tension adjustment is required. Money well spent in my opinion. 1×10 with a 40t t-Rex.

Got the setup as per “yetiman”, the rad cage seemed to help a bit but was fitted after only a few rides. I’m quite happy with it but am contemplating dropping to a 32t front sprocket (34t at present) as it’s a chore on steep climbs.

Great info, thanks all. Will be ordering all the bits come payday.

I run a 40t T-Rex with a RAD cage and a ONEUP 16t on shimano. Its great. Loving it with a 34t retainer ring. V v reliable! Great shifting and lots of chain wrap with very little use of b screw. You will love it.

Yup run a one up 40t xt cassette, zee fr mech 32 t superstar in/out ring (which is much better than the race face version) and an mrp 1x guide

Shifting spot on with a bit of fiddling, had a lot of chain drops with raceface ring and SRAM x9 rear mech this is much much better

As said the 16t is a bit Skippy, so….

Fitted a rad cage + deore inner medium cage and and the16t is much better now.
Excellent setup wouldn’t go back to a front mech and the price and (ime) non-robustness of SRAM makes x01 etc not worth it

Ver

Used the 42t in the alps this year for two weeks (without rad cage and 16t) and it was fine…not perfect….but fine…will be getting the rad cage and 16t soon.

Been running mine since before they were cool, man. Still ace, done a week in the alps, some orrible conditions scottish racing and an enduro world series and a whole stack of Just Normal Riding. Oh, I fitted a Shimano 16T as Oneup hadn’t launched their own. Obviously there’s potentially quite a lot of parts to change each drivetrain swap mind

I got the Rad Cage after a while, it’s worth having but not essential imo- just makes it easier to set up and wins you back some margin for error, which is probably more important when the chain’s full of mud or the mech’s getting rattled off rocks and that.

42t cog with slx casette and mech here, no rad cage, no 16t and shifts fine, only limitation is the cheapo zee shifter!

Anyone tried the genuine 16t Shimano cog?
I’ve found it on Rose Bikes (£7.60 shipping), but maybe they can be got in the UK too.

The 16t isn’t absolutely required for Off road cycling, unless you like to hare down double track, as for me, with a 32T front, it falls into the ratio i use for “fast road” work (MTB fast, not road bike fast, ie about say 12-15mph). As such, if you do loads of miles on road i notice the step in the ratios, off road, never noticed it as pretty much, if you’re going that fast off road you probably aren’t pedaling much (DH world champions excepted 😉

oh, i and i have got the oneup supplied 16t cog, but couldn’t bring myself to fit the chunky plated steel part into the middle of my lovely XTR cassette, it just looked all wrong……. #massivebiketart

🙂
This will be going on a new build, so I may as well get it all right from the off (16t). I’ll also probably be going to a 30t front as I’m a spinner.

maxtorque – Member

The 16t isn’t absolutely required for Off road cycling, unless you like to hare down double track, as for me, with a 32T front, it falls into the ratio i use for “fast road” work (MTB fast, not road bike fast, ie about say 12-15mph). As such, if you do loads of miles on road i notice the step in the ratios, off road, never noticed it as pretty much, if you’re going that fast off road you probably aren’t pedaling much (DH world champions excepted

Mmm, for me it’s right in the middle of the working gears, I use it often. Certainly wouldn’t have thought of it as a high gear

Love it. Got the RAD cage but not been bothered to fit it yet. It’s had some abuse in the Peak District and no issues so far. The 16t was quite skippy and didn’t shift too well when it was all new but after 100 miles or so it began to wear in and I’ve not noticed it since…

On a separate note, what is the best front shifter to use? Saint or XT?

devash – Member

On a separate note, what is the best front shifter to use? Saint or XT?
I’ve been wondering the same thing.
I found the current XT very ‘clunky’ compared to my old 9speed. I wondered if either the Saint or XTR had that silky smoothness of old?

Saint is a real bolt-action clunk-click shifter, I don’t think you’d like it (best shifter Shimano have made IMO, very good SRAM copy- I hate the zero-feel lever-not-attached-to-anything way they used to do things) Not sure about XTR, the ones I’ve used were more old-school shimano but they might not be the current model.

very good SRAM copy

ugh 🙂

OneUp 42t+16t was £57 ($90) posted using paypal.
RAD cage was an extra £22 ($35) when posted at the same time.

Shipped from the UK and arrived in 2 days.

I first bought the 42t+16t kit without the RAD cage and fitted them one by one going for a quick ride in between as I wanted to find out exactly what difference each part did. Fitted with new 30t Blackspire Mono Veloce chainring, SLX M675 medium cage mech, XT cassette, SRAM chain and Zee shifter (I like the clunky/positive Zee shifting) .

Compared to 2×10 I lost the top and bottom ratios. I can’t remember ever using the 36/11t in the Alps this year except on short downhill road linking sections so won’t miss it. Had to put the B screw on the limit to get it to shift up to the 42t which resulted in less than snappy shifts lower down the cassette. Noticed the big jump without the 16t pretty much straight away and for me it would get annoying after a while as with the 30t it’s right where I’d be on the flatter/slightly undulating pedally sections of trails.

If I’d just gone with the 42t I’d be pretty disappointing with the low down shifting.

The 16t solved pretty much solved the jump in gears although the 3t jumps rather than 2t are still noticeable but as mentioned by other forum users above doesnt quite shift as well as the shimano cogs it replaces. I took a 16t from and old ultegra cassette I had lying around and once that was fitted I couldnt tell the difference in shifts compared to the cogs either side performance wise although it was still a little sluggish due to the B screw.

The shifting performance was something I know would annoy me over time so I ordered the RAD cage to see what difference that made for myself.

Then fitted the RAD cage and re-adjusted the b-screw. The sluggishness was pretty much gone. Not completely but I’d say 80-90% back to how everything shifted with the original parts. The RAD cage is the missing link which makes everything work together pretty much as OEM.

I didnt try the Rad cage with the OneUp 16t cog. I think that would work a lot better that it did with the standard SLX cage as the OneUp 16t cogs shifting could only exacerbated the extra distance of the mechs top pulley from the cassette. With the mech closer to the cassette I reckon the shifting would be much better.

If I was doing it all again and didnt have the Ultegra cog what would I buy?

With hindsight I’d buy the 42t+16t kit along with the RAD cage at the same time. If my current mech wasnt a mid cage one I’d take it off (I used all the old drivetrain to upgrade my XC bike to 10sp) and keep it as a spare if I only had the one bike. Only then if I wasnt satisfied with the OneUp 16t shifting would I order a new Ultegra cog which is easily fitted afterwards rather than the more involved mech stripdown to fit the RAD cage.

Hope this helps!

Cheers Doug, you Truly are ‘the man’ i’ll let you know next time im down your way pal 😉

Look forward to it Tony. Hopefully I’ll last a bit longer than last time 😳