Thinking of replacing my old Kilauea frame, so that I can run rear disc. the existing set up has a 100mm fork so initially was going to get an Inbred but then thought if I was to bulid it on a 456 frame I would have the option to upgrade to a longer fork at a later date.

Anyone ridden both on-one’s with 100mm forks?

Which do I buy?

Considered getting disc tabs welded on the kona?

I’ve seen a few older kona’s with this done, probably cheaper than a new frame and you can keep a nice bike.

Used an A2Z adapter on on old kona fire mountain.
Worked well and is cheapest option

The Inbred is a very capable machine, although they had to change some of the tube profiles in ’10ish to comply with the CEN regulations, so in reality it became quite similar to the 456 anyway. The 456 complied with CEN already.

I have ridden a 456 with a 100mm fork for the last 5 years, and it’s wonderful! In retrospect, i should have probably bought the Inbred with sliding dropouts, but i’m more than happy with my 456.

There are other options out there, but most are made of fancy tubing and cost thrice the price. Internet hyperbole aside, i couldn’t justify the extra outlay. So in terms of value, i think the On Ones are hard to beat.

They’re both kind of big lumps- heavy, and fairly stiff/dead feeling (to me at least, opinions vary). But still, very good value.

If you’re thinking along these lines, maybe a Scandal? I haven’t ridden the latest one, mine was an old pre-CEN scandium model, but it was ace. Light, whippy- felt more like the marketing man’s “steel is real” than the Bred does. Exact same geometry.

I switched from a 456 to an inbred and noticed very little difference. I originally rode a 456 on 100mm then moved up to 140mm. There was a difference but both worked. The main difference was probably due to going from a set of 3 year old cheap bombers to top of the range revelations!

Personally I would say go for the inbred unless you really want a hardcore hardtail. You can put 120mm forks on it which will handle most things. It will be marginally lighter and work marginally better with the 100mm forks. If you come to replace the forks then there are oodles of 120mm forks out there. I don’t think I have ever struggled to ride things for want of 20mm of travel. It really isn’t that much. Better off blaming your tyre choice in my experience.

Better off blaming your tyre choice in my experience.

Not blaming your talent, then?! 😉

As well as a rear disc would like to run bigger rear tyre.
Had 2.3 in last year at Viking Challenge and just kept getting jammed up with mud, so having to run 2.1 which is still prone to clogging.

Live for the moment: Go for the Inbred.
I’ve just built one up, having moved everything across from a Sanderson Soloist (which retailed for £300 when I bought it – the Inbred may not be as sproingy but it’s giggletastic.)
Before the Soloist I ran an Inbred with the A2Z adaptor. It worked well but it was a faff – and I lived in fear of puncturing on a sub-zero ride.

At £140 for the Inbred frame if you do move up to 140mm forks you can then swap over to the 456 for less than a couple of nights in the pub.

Duffer – Member
Better off blaming your tyre choice in my experience.
Not blaming your talent, then?!

Don’t be silly 😉

Before talent is

tyres
tyre pressures
fork travel
rear travel
head angle
bar width
presence of dropper seatpost
size of disc rotors
wheel weight
frame weight
component weight
component level
choice of pedal
choice of shoe
etc.

If only I had my other bike I would have nailed it.

Live for the moment: Go for the Inbred.

Wise words

Not as wise as this:

the Inbred may not be as sproingy but it’s giggletastic

Haha! I love STW! Nice list of excuses, by the way!