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  • Old RC car batteries
  • verses
    Full Member

    Hi,
    I’ve just found my old Kyosho Raider at my folks house. I fancy trying to get it running again, but as it’s sat unused for at least 25 years I suspect that the battery is past its best.

    (struggling to share pic sensibly so I’ve tweeted it)

    Anyone know what model battery that would be and where to get replacements?

    Cheers
    V

    verses
    Full Member

    Well the battery holds a little charge… But…

    VanHalen
    Full Member

    Rc car racepack.

    Look on componentshop.co.uk there are options. Capacities have improved a lot. But charging will take longer. Looks like you want a tamiya connector

    No idea what to do about the burning! You can get electronic speed controllers which work better than the old servo things but I’m not clued up enough with the electric to know if it replaces that bit. I keep meaning to upgrade my retro rough rider

    Frankenstein
    Free Member

    I still have my Bush Devil and Lynch Box!

    Both been sat around 25 years!

    New batteries needed. Couldn’t we just get the same dimensions but a high spec and soldier the connectors?

    andyl
    Free Member

    Those old resistor + servo things were always a liability.

    Problem is RC cars have moved on a lot since then. Can you even buy nicads anymore?

    I’ve got a box full of 1700mAh SCRC packs and brushed motors etc from when I used to race.

    These days it’s all lithium cells and brushless.

    andyl
    Free Member

    oh and the batteries on that will most likely be 1200 mAh nicads. 7.2V (6 x sub-c)

    You will need nicads to be compatible with your current charger.

    drewd
    Full Member

    You can get NiMH batteries that will work instead of your old NiCad pack for not a lot. I got a 3000Mah battery and a compatible charger from Wireless Madness last year for £25. You can get them a bit cheaper online, but Wireless Madness are local so I gave them my money.

    A cheap electronic speed controller will work, and replace the mechanical speed controller, servo and resistor that is getting hot on yours. Shouldn’t be more than £15 looking on eBay and amazon.

    I bought a Tamiya drift car off ebay with a cheap ESC as I fancied playing with one. Bought the above battery and charger and haven’t really used it since 🙁

    drewd
    Full Member

    To be a bit more helpful, I have
    this charger

    and this battery pack

    Add an ESC like this one and you should be running again. You may want to go for a better ESC, but that one’s cheap and the reviews suggest it works.

    VanHalen
    Full Member

    Cheers drew have ordered a speed controller. Might also order another buggy for racing withe the eldest ….

    drewd
    Full Member

    Cheers drew have ordered a speed controller. Might also order another buggy for racing withe the eldest

    No worries. I started looking up how much R/C have moved on based on a thread on here before Christmas and concluded that if buying new and you want something fast look at brush less setups and brands like Traxxas. It started looking expensive so I went with a cheap used Tamiya.

    You can get new 2.4 GHz radio gear from eBay for about £25, and it’s supposed to be much better than the older transmitters for range, lack of interference and battery life. I am tempted to try it myself.

    verses
    Full Member

    Thread revival!

    Been looking at electronic speed controllers but they seem to be missing a connection…

    My radio receiver looks like this, https://goo.gl/photos/o5qMARRFCvXdMpzi8

    And this shows the old speed controller and the radio receiver, https://goo.gl/photos/tLWWZVrAZZrAZDk18

    The old speed controller connects into the receiver in the “CH.1” slot, it also has a wire running to the switch (shown leaving the lower edge on the 2nd pic). Another cable leaves the other side of the switch and runs into the receiver’s “Batt” slot.

    All the new ESC’s I’ve seen don’t have a wire leaving the switch (example here) so I don’t think my receiver will be powered if I use them.

    What’s the best way of getting this working? Is it just a simple matter of snipping off the new switch and splicing onto the old one?

    If it’s any use here’s a pic from the other side of the car, https://goo.gl/photos/sWPC6bWnxFtK21eJA

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

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