I am very aware many of these are not legit, especially on Ebay. I would be a little sad if I have been suckered, did not cost too much. How would I know if this is as it should be? Will post pics later.

Depends on the level of frankenwatch. Was it too cheap? Quartz/mechanical/Any service history? Why do you think it’s a frankenwatch?

There are plenty of old omegas that don’t cost a fortune especially on eBay – worse are people putting together ‘NOS’ bits but these are usually pretty obvious.

In a random thread derailment I’ve got a mechanical I’m thinking of letting go. Plating chipped in one place, otherwise spot on with hirsh alligator, omega buckle, all papers and stuff. Is £200 fair?

Bear, unless you’re short I’d hold onto it, I suspect you’ve undervalued it as well by 100+ %. A full set is pretty well sought after. If you do sell I’d contact Mike at the oldwatchshop in Southport, he knows his beans and won’t short change you. Don’t sell it for 200 to the first person to mail you off here.

That’s a good little lump of tax free pension don’t sell it box it up and get serviced by a proper dealer

Ah, ok! I got it at a steal a few years back. Thanks; I will stick it back next to the sock drawer for a few years then 🙂

If it has the original glass it would easily tech double that. (Should have a small Omega in the ctr).

I have a similar one to bear up there. My dad gave it to me in 1978 and it has been sat in a drawer ever since. What’s the best way to go about getting it valued? Before I sell it I think I’d like to have it serviced so if anyone can recommend anyone who could do that I’d appreciate it.

£200 for a gold plated unserviced geneve is pretty fair if it’s the money in your pocket, you’ll get a bit more on eBay etc but you’ll lose fees and watch for scammers. £3-400 would be doing really well at auction, but the fees will hit that.

Salad dodger if you want to sell it there really isn’t a lot of point servicing it, it’s going to cost you £150 or so at an independent and you won’t get that money back if it’s running now. Omega will class it as a vintage piece (over 40 years old) and servicing starts at £1000! If you want to wear it, service it and enjoy it but don’t do it for someone else to get the benefit.

As above, if it’s losing / gaining lots of time it probably needs regulation or a service, if it’s not then don’t worry about it, the cost is often prohibitive. Just hold onto it.

Bear, I used to have a Seamaster of that era which I foolishly let go…such was love. I used Chris Heal for servicing, always well done and well priced, and I would certainly go back to him if I got a similar watch again.

Looks legit?





currently -10s/d with this tiny screw adjusted.

Very comfy and a tiny 33mm for my girly wrists.

There is a number on it somewhere, can’t remember if it’s the movement of the car back and can’t see on my phone in your photos. It’s the serial number. Google for omega vintage serial numbers and you’ll find part of the omega site where you can enter the number and get watch info – year, movement ( check against the 3 digit number on the movement), and appearance.

Seen it, second photo, through the lupe, top number is the serial, 3 digit one the movement calibre.

Parts are all legit, need better photos of the dial, think it may have been touched up but can be hard to tell.

It’s smart.

Neil, which sections of dial would reveal a touch up?

The ‘seamaster’ writing is a good one, the ‘s’ should be long and curly, called a coat hanger S, but it isn’t always. Then any baton’s not stuck on straight or the omega not straight. Tbh, a nice dial in a 60 year in watch… It’s been touched up normally. It ought to have patina, and in the hands, and they should all look equally aged.

Btw, it depends on calibre, condition and luck, but a steel seamster from about 1960, manual, I’d say £400 give or take, that’s to buy privately, not what you’d get.

Gold plating adds little to its value.

The Will be a course regulator that’s easier then adjusting that screw. A pointer, pointing to an arced scale with ‘A’ for advance and ‘R’ for regard. Just nudge the pointer around a bit.

Oh and yours being auto I’d add £200 ish, not sure really, definitely more than manual though.

The dial looks pretty god, according to neilnevill’s description. I was doing a bit of googling for examples of the Yema Rallygraf Super that I have, to get some sort of idea as to current prices, and I found one going for €1100, which I thought was good going, then I had a good close look at the photos; it was a real frankenwatch, a total mishmash of parts, few original. The case looked right, but the caseback was completely wrong, as was the winder, the chrono buttons, the tachometer ring on the bezel was laser-printed, and poorly, not anodised aluminium, and the face looked like a copy, too. I’m not even certain the movement was a mechanical either.
It was an old posting, I’m not certain if it had sold, but if so, the poor sod who’d bought had been sold a pup, for certain.
Thing is, I had mine as a control, and I know mine is genuine, I bought it from new!
It’s all a bit of a minefield with older, collectible watches nowadays.

Agree, although a few hundred on a vintage seamaster, it’s not the end of the world if it’s not quite right. It’s a watch to buy to wear in my view. Wear it and enjoy it, it’s smart.
(Owner of a semi battered 61 stainless manual, it still looks damn classy)

I’ve got a Seamaster that belonged to an Uncle, it was left for ages with a dead battery in it & now apparently It’s fubared. (had it to a reputable jeweler & a guy at work who ‘knows about watches’)
Any good for spares/repairs?