for those that have seen my posts about my chain/cassette replacements I will now eat my words, for those that haven’t, well bear with me.. or check out my previous rants lol

so I popped a new cassette (xt) on my other wheels the other day and it was shifting fine, but other cassette (also xt) and only 800 miles old ish was causing probs with shifting, kept being sluggish shifting up into middle sprocket on cassette, so I popped a spare chain I had lying around on (this spare chain was taken off when I had to shorten it when my hanger snapped to get me home) it was only a few rides old too but didnt realise I could add the links back in with another missing link (chain is kmc x9sl)

anyways, both cassettes shifted flawlessly, I measured the chain using the 12″ pin to pin method as I don’t possess a chain checker yet…

the old chain was stretched and the spare one was fine.

Issue sorted! well kind of… the chain that was stretched was only about 700 miles old, that’s about a month old.does that sound right for that kind of chain? pretty much cleaned and lubed after every muddy or dusty ride.

the chain that was stretched was only about 700 miles old, that’s about a month old.does that sound right for that kind of chain? pretty much cleaned and lubed after every muddy or dusty ride.

Right quick one
http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

Riders often speak of “chain stretch,” a technically misleading and incorrect term. Chains do not stretch, in the dictionary sense, by elongating the metal by tension. Chains lengthen because their hinge pins and sleeves wear.

Again the miles depends what you dragged it through. Washing and cleaning when it’s sat in the garage is great but it’s when it’s out and grinding that it’s wearing out.

How stretched are we talking? I’d not expect a chain thats done 800 miles to be like new, but I’d not expect totally **** either.

How stretched are we talking? I’d not expect a chain thats done 800 miles to be like new, but I’d not expect totally **** either.

well its enough to cause shifting issues, as I dont have a digital checker I cant quote fractions of mm but when measured with the 12″ crude method it looks like it was about 1-2mm.

from centre of first pin it reaches 12″ at outer edge of last pin if that makes sense?

I’ve not read the previous ‘rants’ but if the 700 mile chain has been used on a part worn cassette it will show wear quite quickly.

Anyone here use a parktool chain checker? Do you usually replace on 0.75 to save wear on cogs, or wait will it just hits 1?

If I’m selling chains then the answer is 75. If I’m buying them it’s 1.

My shifting up to the middle ring on the cassette becomes a bit poor after not many rides. I just keep riding and don’t worry about it, riding bicycles is ace, it’s not ruined by a slightly poor shift in one ring.

My shifting up to the middle ring on the cassette becomes a bit poor after not many rides. I just keep riding and don’t worry about it, riding bicycles is ace, it’s not ruined by a slightly poor shift in one ring.

problem there is when you are stamping on the pedals on uphill sections and you need the next lowest sprocket instantly not in a few seconds when you have then lost all momentum. that’s why I DO worry about it.

problem there is when you are stamping on the pedals on uphill sections and you need the next lowest sprocket instantly not in a few seconds when you have then lost all momentum. that’s why I DO worry about it.

Anticipation – or a singlespeed 😉

If im stamping up a section, i dont need a lower gear, i just MTFU.

So shifting under massive load? One of the things to avoid.

Indeed, no one else seems affected by this problem so either:

– you’re doing something wrong
– you have some peculiar OCD
– you’re imagining it

Seems odd you’re changing chains every 20 minutes and avoiding anything that’s not a perfect chain line, then changing gear when you’re stamping up a hill…

ok fair points, so imagine this…. riding terrain or areas that are unknown to you, e.g. you haven’t ridden there before. You start on an uphill section which has bends on it, as I am unable to see round corners, I am unable to plan ahead and see the upcoming gradient. I use a gear that’s suitable for the gradient I am on and I can see is coming up, so I get round the bend and the gradient increases dramatically do I (a) change to an easier gear? (b) get off and walk like some would. or (c) call for the uplift like some others that can only ride down hills.

*gets ready for further attacks on riding style!!

D ease off the power and shift gear.

D ease off the power and shift gear.

exactly what I do do, and that was where the problem was arising as it wasn’t shifting smoothly, taking a few seconds to change causing a loss in momentum as stated in previous post. it’s all sorted now anyway. lets just get out and ride now instead of sitting here on the forum!