Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)
  • Another reverb question – quick release clamp or not?
  • organic355
    Free Member

    as above, do you use a quick release clamp or a standard bolt throu seat clamp? It doesnt need to be moved other than for a service, so surely a regular set clamp would be better?

    the_lecht_rocks
    Full Member

    Do you use a bike stand and clamp to the seat post… Also, hope alloy bolts always snap on me…

    BadlyWiredDog
    Full Member

    Yes, it’s all about marginal gains. To offset the increased weight of the Reverb, I fitted a bolt-through clamp, not only does this gives increased thigh clearance, but saves almost 4.3g meaning the added weight of the Reverb is less obvious on climbs. 😉

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    JefWachowchow
    Free Member

    I took the opportunity to ditch the shonky QR that came with the frame and replace it with a bolt through Kashima like Bronze one from Straitline.
    As you say, it only needs to be undone for service.

    variflex
    Free Member

    I started using a QR and replaced it with a hope bolt through.
    No more slippage and its easier to get the right torque with a bolt through. If you over tighten a QR the reverb slows down and doesnt reach full height.

    munrobiker
    Free Member

    I have a QR simply because that’s what was already on my bike- there’s no point spending even more money on top of the Reverb.

    bigyinn
    Free Member

    The only downside I suppose is that you can probably overtighten the bolt up clamp, which might cause the Reverb to bind?

    wallop
    Full Member

    I took the opportunity to ditch the shonky QR that came with the frame and replace it with a bolt through Kashima like Bronze one from Straitline.

    You’ve made my day, thank you!

    mildred
    Full Member

    The only downside I suppose is that you can probably overtighten the bolt up clamp, which might cause the Reverb to bind?

    I would have thought there was less chance of this with a bolt through. You can use a torque wrench for a bolt in order to prevent over tightening, whereas with a QR you’re using your fingers & guessing.

    jes
    Free Member

    Changed to a standard bolt Hope seat clamp once I was happy with the intial height setting.
    I found getting the right tension is easier than with a QR.

    proutster
    Free Member

    Bolt through for me – I often leave my bike (chained, padlocked and double D-locked) on my (towball-mounted) bike rack when I’m staying at hotels (and yes, it is covered under the insurance when I do this), so I thought that a QR would make it too easy for someone to steal a £200 seatpost.

    As above, a torque wrench and assembly paste is (IMHO) essential to ensure that you don’t over-tighten and wreck the post.

    robhenry85
    Free Member

    i got a bolt one just so it would be harder to nick 😉

    davewalsh
    Free Member

    ^^ What he said ^^

    Sold my Hope QR for a tenner and bought a superstar clamp for £7

    messiah
    Free Member

    QR for me. I like to be able to drop my dropper for some of the gnar I really enjoy.

    Superficial
    Free Member

    My hobby:

    Confusing owners of Reverbs by altering their seatclamp QR so their seat is always in the wrong place.

    ask1974
    Free Member

    Bolt through.

    messiah
    Free Member

    QR also because I run saddle at different height for flatties vs SPD’s.

    stevomcd
    Free Member

    QR. I’m a dropper-post dropper. 😳

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    QR. Easier to get it in the car. Plus, I can drop the saddle and raise the whole post to put it in the work stand for cleaning.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    QR, because sometimes a man just wants more than 5 inches, and the creams don’t work.

    martinxyz
    Free Member

    qr here. what’s so hard about torquing the bolt on a salsa clamp?

Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)

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