have been using xt cassettes for a while now and in last 12 months have gone through about 4 or 5 and never had any issues, latest one ordered but came not in a shimano box but loose with zip ties in a crc box. Thought this a bit odd at the time but hey ho, it looked right.

Popped it on and off I went, first ride about 30 ish miles and it seemed a bit clanky and shifting was not right but then I had an annoying creak that drowned it out.

second ride of about 40 miles and i had similar issues, fiddled with gears on the fly and couldnt get rid of it.

This morning thought i’d check the freehub and star ratchets on dt 240 hub, all fine. so just swapped the cassette for the one on my other wheels (also XT cassette, about a month old) and hey presto, no clanky noise.

seems there was an issue with that cassette! cant see anything visually wrong so am going to contact crc and see what they say?

any others with issues similar to this?

seems there was an issue with that cassette! cant see anything visually wrong so am going to contact crc and see what they say?

They’re quite simple things, so other than tolerances being out internally or externally (doubtful), or loose rivets (possible), not quite sure what could be wrong that a visual inspection wouldn’t show.

Does the cassette sit on the freehub ok, with no excessive movement?

and in last 12 months have gone through about 4 or 5

Blimey.

old chain?

Was the lock ring tight enough?
I’ve had a similar thing that went away when i tightened the lock ring a bit more.

Send it back to CRC and ask them to send you a new one. I’ve never heard of a manufacturing defect on a cassette (especially an XT one which are made in Japan) but you may have been unlucky.

The fact that it came in a CRC box means its just an OEM part and shouldn’t be of lesser quality than retail.

its not the lock ring and not the freehub body as Ive swapped out just the cassettes, its a newish chain (150 miles) so not that i wouldnt have thought. its a mystery tbh.

Just curious, how many miles have you done in the last year and what’s your local mud like, and how many chains have you got through?

Just curious, how many miles have you done in the last year and what’s your local mud like, and how many chains have you got through?

I would say Ive done about 5000 miles at least, mixture of on and off road, mud is not too bad, bit clay/gloop but not sandy. always clean and lube after every ride, chains are about one per cassette too, just change chain and cassette after about 800 to 1000 miles.

anyways, crc are going to swap it and i’ll see what the new one is like.

I know you posted this on your other thread, but why change so often? I can’t believe that you’re having any problems after 800 miles that necessitate replacing chain and cassette.

I would say Ive done about 5000 miles at least, mixture of on and off road, mud is not too bad, bit clay/gloop but not sandy. always clean and lube after every ride, chains are about one per cassette too, just change chain and cassette after about 800 to 1000 miles.

5000 miles is a LOT – a hell of a lot for MTBing, it’s a pretty sizeable chunk even for most roadies.
Firstly, I’d guess that’s massively overestimated unless you’ve got cycle computer/Strava files to back it up and secondly, I can’t believe anyone can get through 4-5 cassettes in a year, especially not with a maintenance regime like you describe.

Even when I was doing full on XC racing, I’d be unlucky to need more than one cassette a year, maybe 2 chains at a push.

As others have said, issues with cassettes are almost always down to missing out a spacer or not tightening the locknut sufficiently.

5000 miles is a LOT – a hell of a lot for MTBing, it’s a pretty sizeable chunk even for most roadies.
Firstly, I’d guess that’s massively overestimated unless you’ve got cycle computer/Strava files to back it up and secondly, I can’t believe anyone can get through 4-5 cassettes in a year, especially not with a maintenance regime like you describe.

Well looking at my strava and I only started using it and a garmin at the begining of May I counted up the miles ive done, these miles are not including trips to shops and any rides under 8-10 miles and the total is 2275 miles, and thats in 4 months so I guess YES! i do have the strava data to back up my 5000 miles a year, which is actually an under estimation!!

I did not want this post to turn into a slanging match thank you very much.

I would rather use a cassette and chain for a while and then sell it on while it still has use in it to contribute towards the cost of the new cassette and chain. This makes financial sense to me. TBH some of the cassettes/chains have streched/worn certain sprockets as I tend to use the smallest 3 or 4 sprockets and choose to change between outer and middle ring at the front.

anyways, lets see how the new cassette they send fairs.

I would rather use a cassette and chain for a while and then sell it on while it still has use in it to contribute towards the cost of the new cassette and chain. This makes financial sense to me.

Have you tried running the cassette and chain into the ground and seeing how long it actually lasts? With the conditions and maintenance you describe I suspect you’d get a hell of a lot more mileage out of it than you think!

I didn’t see it as a slanging match, it was a fair observation.

As you’re fastidious with maintanence and doing a lot on road I’d expect you to get at least a year out of a cassete with a couple of chains, which strikes me as a better use of cash, but if you’re happy with what you’re doing…

As for the original problem it’s not one I’ve seen, the fact it’s OEM isn’t really relevant, perhaps it’s just a Friday afternoon cassette.

There’s your problem. You can’t complain about costs mounting from constantly changing cassettes when you somehow believe that you’re cheating the system by getting rid of them early.

Edit; i.e. what grooveguru said.

Njee20, not slanging match with you… lol, I meant the disbelief in my milage that crazy-legs posted!

everyones got an opinion eh? just because some people are weekend warriors they get all “I doubt they do that” and “hmmm doesnt sound right to me” lol I would calculate that my annual milage to be nearer 7000 miles.

still think you get that amount of miles out of a cassette? regardless of maintenance/cleaning, metal on metal causes wear and after a while chain slip will occur, now if others are happy to live with chain slip and non exact gear shifts that’s fine, but I like to have the gear I select instantly not in a few seconds and certainly not having slipping on powering up hills!

I like to have the gear I select instantly

so why use the front mech so much and ignore half the cassette – rear changes are far quicker?

xcretro – Member This makes financial sense to me. TBH some of the cassettes/chains have streched/worn certain sprockets as I tend to use the smallest 3 or 4

you’re not getting your money’s worth, if you used the full range of the cassette they could last about 60% longer

Njee20, not slanging match with you… lol, I meant the disbelief in my milage that crazy-legs posted!

I realise, but I don’t think crazy-legs post was overly argumentative. You seem to be looking for folk to be arguing.

I’ve had about 10000 miles out of the chain and cassette on my road bike, it’s pretty shagged, but only been washed about 10 times, if that, and it still shifts perfectly.

I don’t believe you’re getting any slipping after 800 miles with a daily cleaning regime. At all.

As I say, if you’re happy then fine. But you did start a thread bemoaning how much you spend on chains and cassettes, and yet you’re changing them more than anyone I’ve ever met!

Njee20, not slanging match with you… lol, I meant the disbelief in my milage that crazy-legs posted!

Sorry for any offence, it wasn’t intended that way – it was astonishment not at the mileage but at replacing chains and cassettes every 2.5 months!
As I say, even racing XC/24hr races etc, I’d get a year out of a cassette.

because I run out of gears as 11t is the smallest and 32t middle ring and 11t rear sprocket means I’m spinning a bit too fast on certain downhill and flat sections. Thats why I use outer and middle rings!

Why does everyone pick at your posts and question what you do, just because they might not do this or they ride differently. I am trying to do some cadence training at the moment and trying to hold between 90-100 rpm but I guess I shouldnt have said that as someone will now come along and question that! 😉

because I run out of gears as 11t is the smallest and 32t middle ring and 11t rear sprocket means I’m spinning a bit too fast on certain downhill and flat sections. Thats why I use outer and middle rings!

So stay in the big ring and go up the block…?

You said that you only use the smallest sprockets, and you shift on the front lots, and yet you want persistently perfect shifting. It’s all at odds. You complain you spend too much on transmission parts, then say you get rid of them barely used ‘to save money’. I think people are just trying to understand your motivations.

OP, can I have your old cassettes? 😀

I am not looking for an argument at all, it just winds me up that I say this or that is happening or ive done this or that and immediately folk are disbelieving or suggesting that I am talking crap!

OOOH ime such a sensitive soul lol 😡

So stay in the big ring and go up the block…?

yeah I could do this but as I run a triple up front that causes axcessive chain line tension! not good for the chain right?

I base my decisions and choices on previous experiences, and it hurt rather a lot when on a steep uphill section the chain skipped and because of the force I was applying to the pedals at the time I went over the bars! I don’t want to do that again so I am perhaps being over cautious

In the top 2-3 perhaps, but as you’re changing them so often who cares…? Why not go double or single?

…or single speed 😈

perhaps I wasnt as clear as I could have been… I run 3×9 24/32/42 up front with an 11-32 cassette. does that make any difference to anyones opinions??

perhaps I should have a crack at singlespeed, I was told by some of the guys I ride with occasionally that that might slow me down a bit.

Have you tried the “dodgy” xt cassette on the other wheel?

It seems a little strange to swap the cassettes before they’re worn out. How much do you get for the part worn cassettes?

My Sram 980 cassettes last for around 3-4 years usually 😯

I just use a parktool chain stretch tool and replace chains when needed.

yeah I could do this but as I run a triple up front that causes axcessive chain line tension! not good for the chain right?

If you run 44t to 11t and then change on the back until you’re down at 18t (5th smallest), then flick to 32t on the front and click up the back to 14t (two clicks) and then run 32t on 14t to 32t you’ll have a ton of benefits.

Firstly you’ll be shifting mostly at the back which is always quicker and cleaner and more reliable. Secondly you’ll be spreading the chain across many more teeth at the back, and that greatly reduces the changes of the chain slipping under load. And thirdly you’ll have less leverage on the teeth and more teeth to share the load, both of which will vastly reduce the wear rate. And finally, the increased chain wrap diameter will reduce transmission losses there, more than compensating for increased losses due to a more angled chain line. Don’t forget that modern chains are much happier running at sharper angles than old style ones (with bushings).

If you run 44t to 11t and then change on the back until you’re down at 18t (5th smallest), then flick to 32t on the front and click up the back to 14t (two clicks) and then run 32t on 14t to 32t you’ll have a ton of benefits.

Firstly you’ll be shifting mostly at the back which is always quicker and cleaner and more reliable. Secondly you’ll be spreading the chain across many more teeth at the back, and that greatly reduces the changes of the chain slipping under load. And thirdly you’ll have less leverage on the teeth and more teeth to share the load, both of which will vastly reduce the wear rate. And finally, the increased chain wrap diameter will reduce transmission losses there, more than compensating for increased losses due to a more angled chain line. Don’t forget that modern chains are much happier running at sharper angles than old style ones (with bushings).

Handy post, never really paid much attention to this and kind of shift on auto pilot. May try and re learn the above though and basically stay away from the smaller cogs on the back as much as possible?

I do know I spend a hell of a lot of time in middle chainring up front and 2 smallest rings on the back.