Put some new pads in my avid elixirs and they are now binding. It was fine after they wore in a bit but for the first miles I was riding with my brakes on. I pushed the pistons back before removing the old pads but they didn't seem to go back far enough

I'm using discobrakes pads and was wondering if all pads are the same thickness? I sanded the paint off the back as I have a vague recollection of someone suggesting that but it did't help properly.

Suggestions?

anyone?

Probably a tad too much fluid in the system, try loosening the bleed screw at the lever as you prise the pads apart, and then tighten it again before you release pressure at the pads or it may suck back air int the system.

I've got similar problems with my avid's on a new orange Crush. Tried the push back approach. Will try the other approach too

For me with Discobrakes (and Superstar) pads in Elixirs the problem was the width of the pad, not the depth. Could be the pad sticking in the caliper so they won't retract? Had to sand the edges, not the back.

Tracker1972 – Member
For me with Discobrakes (and Superstar) pads in Elixirs the problem was the width of the pad, not the depth. Could be the pad sticking in the caliper so they won't retract? Had to sand the edges, not the back.

+1 – I was advised to do this by my LBS and it sorted it. It wasn't the depth of the pad (i.e. pad material + backing material + paint) that was causing it, but the layer of paint around the edge of the backing plate, causing it to bind in the caliper and not retract when the piston did.

had to let fluid out of mine, that's with the original avid pads.
Back brake would sieze solid if I left it out in the sun

Hi.
Sorry to ressurect an old thread but I am having the very same problem with the brakes on my husbands bike. They're Elixir R and have always been a bit 'bindy' but I have decided to try to fettle them once and for all.

I've tried letting a bit of fluid out while pushing the pistons in, as above. I have tried loosening the main bolts and refastening them to 'centralise' them.
The latest pads are Avid ones and don't seem to have a coating/paint on them for me to sand off.
I can see the pistons and pads moving in/out as I operate the lever but there just is not much clearance and they're definitely dragging if I spin the wheel.
Strangely, if I loosen the fork/adaptor bolts and spin the wheel, it spins freely but when I have tightened them back up, as per the 'resetting' instructions, they're binding again. I have checked the mounting adaptor and that is the correct size.
I am at a bit of a loss.

The only other thing I can think is that the rotors are just too thick.
Is this likely? (They're the Shimano ones that were on the bike originally)

I am fairly mechanically inept when it comes to bikes, but there ain't *that* much to it so what AM I missing?

Thanks.

There's very little pad clearance on these brakes, couple this with a caliper clamping system that allows for misalignment in three planes and it can be very difficult to avoid pads dragging.Careful slight loosening of the caliper and winkling it in/out/diagonally, re-tightening and swearing copiously as it moves should eventually result in the caliper sitting absolutely square to the rotor from every angle with a smidge of clearance on both sides.Another cause of rub(apart from too much fluid) can be air being held in the system causing a little bit of spring to the pads, i've sorted a few draggers with a bleed after just removing excess fluid has failed.

Cheers Coatsey – I will try a proper bleed on them when my ribs and my arm stop hurting.
(I decided to test ride it after trying all the above. The brakes are currently behaving more like an on/off switch and that, combined with riding a modified bike that's too tall for me, jeans with a ripped arse and a saddle that snagged in those rips has just resulted in a comedy fall off that was not fun – for me, at least. Not so much mechanically inept as just inept… If J doesn't come home with wine he's not coming in the house!!)