I’ve got a new Cannondale SuperSix Evo and noticed the non-drive side crank doesn’t seem to fit flush against the BB
You can see in the photo there’s a small gap – maybe 5mm. Does that look right, or are my cranks gonna fall off!

It’s a standard Ultegra 22-speed build if that makes a difference.

Cheers.

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Nope take it back to the shop and ask them to install it properly – it’s either missing some spacers or it’s not tightened properly
Also my wavy washer is on the drive side

Pls don’t ride it like that, you won’t have proper pre tension on the crank and likely to cause damage

Cheers Mashie – only ridden it once for approx 20 miles & noticed it mid-ride.

All seems well so hopefully no damage done but I’ll be taking it in tomorrow.

What’s the wavy washer’s function – weird looking thing!

Is the wavy washer not a spring washer to keep the nut under tension?

^^ that looks like it would spin right off and kill you to death in a trillion pieces.

It ain’t right that, it should all be flush. The springy washer thingy should be on the drive side too,, I’ve no idea what it is/does but I reckon if it’s not fitted there you will end up peddling in circles for the rest of your life.

Did you buy it like that? Or did it come in a box and you fitted the black rubbery things that spin ?

The wavy washer keeps the bearing in tension – it’s should be on the drive side and squashed to a point where the wave is mid to flat compressed (not totally compressed flat)

Ah the joys of you Internet arm achair experts.
There are a few things that could cause this firstly:
You can see the grey plastic chainline spacer if there is play you can fit up to three of these.
There is also a aluminium crank spacer that will be on the driveside behind the driveside arm.

Tthe wavy washer is supposed to be on the non driveside as it is in the picture, check the chainset doesn’t move side to side if it does you may need to install a couple more chainline spacers .if it doesn’t and the crank arm bolts are done up tight (you will need a 10 mm Allen key for this) then all is ok!

Sorry but I am not advising from my armchair but looking at two of my bikes both of which have hollowgram cranks which I install and service myself

Id review your mechanic techniques then.

Here you go OP

Have a look at this

http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media/Files/PDF/Dorel/Cannondale/Common/Support/Accessories/SISL2_Road_Crankset_Instr_1012.ashx?vs=1&d=20151203T181633Z

Piecostomus is absolutely right. Assuming there’s no play then it looks ok.

Enjoy the new bike and particularly the silence until the BB30 bottom bracket starts to creak like crazy after a couple of thousand kms.

Cheers Plecostomus – useful link.

I bought it like that – I’m not the original owner but it’s basically done a handful of miles before the original owner decided road riding wasn’t for him (expensive lesson!)

Anyway it’s gone in to my LBS (Cannondale dealer) who confirmed it didn’t look right, so they’re going to remove and refit on Monday. Swapping the white bar tape for black at the same time (I know, lazy b*stard that I am)

wavy washer on non driveside and should be compressed when crank bolt set at torque, but not flattened

use nylon shims to adjust this until the wave washer shows the correct form

SRAM used this too, but thankfully dumped it on later cranks especially higher end MTB models, with an adjustable threaded lock ring and pinch bolt – hell of a lot easier to adjust and set

use a torque wrench, and lots of good quality waterproof grease during the install, it will help delay the inevitable creaking

What Esher said
It’s correctly set up but it’s still nasty